Discussion
& loud noisesI'm getting some strange behaviour from the rear of the car!!
In extreme cases I notice I am having to steer to the right slightly to go in a straight line and then get a heavy 'jolt' from the rear and the car straightens up. In lesser cases I just get the 'jolt'.
I have checked the chassis out and have found a slight crack near where the roll bar connects to the chassis and am having this welded later in the week but don't think this is related.
I have changed the top diff bush as the old one was knackered so also know the bracket is good too.
In extreme cases I notice I am having to steer to the right slightly to go in a straight line and then get a heavy 'jolt' from the rear and the car straightens up. In lesser cases I just get the 'jolt'.
I have checked the chassis out and have found a slight crack near where the roll bar connects to the chassis and am having this welded later in the week but don't think this is related.
I have changed the top diff bush as the old one was knackered so also know the bracket is good too.
I had some issues with mine a while back. Came round a sweeping corner in a very exuberant manner (completely sideways 
) then the car developed a very loud clunk from the diff everytime I went round right hand bends. It was that bad it felt like the diff was welded. Took the car straight to the dealer, where it miraculously fixed itself. Its never returned despite repeated exuberance 
) then the car developed a very loud clunk from the diff everytime I went round right hand bends. It was that bad it felt like the diff was welded. Took the car straight to the dealer, where it miraculously fixed itself. Its never returned despite repeated exuberance BCA has a Quaife after the hydratrak failed.
Personally, my (1996) car still has the original clutch pack type LSD in which I'm very happy with. I think that it is the most "sympathetic" type of diff available as they tend to lock up slower than the geared (Quaife) type and cause less drivetrain shunt.
Personally, my (1996) car still has the original clutch pack type LSD in which I'm very happy with. I think that it is the most "sympathetic" type of diff available as they tend to lock up slower than the geared (Quaife) type and cause less drivetrain shunt.
HRG. said:
Gearboxman (CTS) will rebuild a BTR diff for around 320-350 + VAT. I think that is more sensible than getting a s/h unit that you don't know anything about.
lolI think a few of the T350 guys have changed to Quaife diffs, I know that Paul Edwards (Tailslide) has, seems a good, if expensive, option.
Mark if you get stuck, I have a good diff' you can borrow until you sort yours. I'm not selling it as it's my spare, but as I'm only doing 2 or 3 sprints this year I'm hoping I'll not be needing it in the near future.
Tim
Mark if you get stuck, I have a good diff' you can borrow until you sort yours. I'm not selling it as it's my spare, but as I'm only doing 2 or 3 sprints this year I'm hoping I'll not be needing it in the near future.
Tim
4.5's have the Hydratak diff as standard, which is a viscous unit.
Jack up one rear wheel and try to turn it.
If it is hard to turn, the viscous unit is OK.
If it spins easy, then it may have been damaged by too much abuse (it needs to cool down!)
Anybody got any photo's of the Hydratrak in bits?
I suspect it is the same viscious unit as fitted to the Rang Rover center diff, a Borg Warner silicon sealed unit.
Steve
Jack up one rear wheel and try to turn it.
If it is hard to turn, the viscous unit is OK.
If it spins easy, then it may have been damaged by too much abuse (it needs to cool down!)
Anybody got any photo's of the Hydratrak in bits?
I suspect it is the same viscious unit as fitted to the Rang Rover center diff, a Borg Warner silicon sealed unit.
Steve
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff