Which Cerb model is best?
Discussion
I'm after reading up on the Cerb and would like advice on which engine is the most reliable throughout the range.
My purchasing budget is only likely to be able to extend to an earlier model.
I'd like to use the car daily, I've heard that higher mileage Cerbs are often better ones to go for - just buy a well maintained one in a good clean condition, is that correct?
What are they like as daily drivers?
I have a good run of 16 miles each way to work and no city driving, all dual carriageway and a bit of in-town driving.
I will be able to keep the car garaged over night or at least under cover in a car port when not garaged. Is chassis corrosion a big issues on Cerbs & would it prevent winter use?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
My purchasing budget is only likely to be able to extend to an earlier model.
I'd like to use the car daily, I've heard that higher mileage Cerbs are often better ones to go for - just buy a well maintained one in a good clean condition, is that correct?
What are they like as daily drivers?
I have a good run of 16 miles each way to work and no city driving, all dual carriageway and a bit of in-town driving.
I will be able to keep the car garaged over night or at least under cover in a car port when not garaged. Is chassis corrosion a big issues on Cerbs & would it prevent winter use?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
16 miles isn't very long, it will *just* about be getting warm enough to spank when you get in.
By best you mean most reliable. In which case the 4.5's seem the best bet purely from a early 4.2 crank snapping potential - some say this is non-issue, others say somewhat bigger. I went for a 4.2, but with a 4.5 crank to sidestep this potential.
Other than that your main worry with all cerbs, well in fact THE main worry with all cerbs is chassis condition. You have to get that right before worrying about the engine. I'll be buying a beater for when there is salt on the roads, but am not 100% against taking out in rain provided chassis is protected (I've got an imminent painting session pencilled in!) In this respect though I think considering it to be a daily driver over the depths of winter is perhaps asking a little for trouble, the salt will do its worst, or that's my fear. I'll not be risking it.... will be very hard to do so on those dry 'snappy' days though that pop up inbetween freezing spells but with salt on road, I rekon I'd take it for a blast but give it a good wash on my return.
Then you have clutch, but it's not such a biggy - you'll want to see it done within the last 20K miles or so or you can expect it to come around again.
By best you mean most reliable. In which case the 4.5's seem the best bet purely from a early 4.2 crank snapping potential - some say this is non-issue, others say somewhat bigger. I went for a 4.2, but with a 4.5 crank to sidestep this potential.
Other than that your main worry with all cerbs, well in fact THE main worry with all cerbs is chassis condition. You have to get that right before worrying about the engine. I'll be buying a beater for when there is salt on the roads, but am not 100% against taking out in rain provided chassis is protected (I've got an imminent painting session pencilled in!) In this respect though I think considering it to be a daily driver over the depths of winter is perhaps asking a little for trouble, the salt will do its worst, or that's my fear. I'll not be risking it.... will be very hard to do so on those dry 'snappy' days though that pop up inbetween freezing spells but with salt on road, I rekon I'd take it for a blast but give it a good wash on my return.
Then you have clutch, but it's not such a biggy - you'll want to see it done within the last 20K miles or so or you can expect it to come around again.
Edited by stuthemong on Thursday 3rd September 12:37
Edited by stuthemong on Thursday 3rd September 12:39
stuthemong said:
16 miles isn't very long, it will *just* about be getting warm enough to spank when you get in.
By best you mean most reliable. In which case the 4.5's seem the best bet purely from a early 4.2 crank snapping potential - some say this is non-issue, others say somewhat bigger. I went for a 4.2, but with a 4.5 crank to sidestep this potential.
Other than that your main worry with all cerbs, well in fact THE main worry with all cerbs is chassis condition. You have to get that right before worrying about the engine. I'll be buying a beater for when there is salt on the roads, but am not 100% against taking out in rain provided chassis is protected (I've got an imminent painting session pencilled in!) In this respect though I think considering it to be a daily driver over the depths of winter is perhaps asking a little for trouble, the salt will do its worst, or that's my fear. I'll not be risking it.... will be very hard to do so on those dry 'snappy' days though that pop up inbetween freezing spells but with salt on road, I rekon I'd take it for a blast but give it a good wash on my return.
Then you have clutch, but it's not such a biggy - you'll want to see it done within the last 20K miles or so or you can expect it to come around again.
I'll echo all of the above, chassis important, clutch does 'around' 20-30k.By best you mean most reliable. In which case the 4.5's seem the best bet purely from a early 4.2 crank snapping potential - some say this is non-issue, others say somewhat bigger. I went for a 4.2, but with a 4.5 crank to sidestep this potential.
Other than that your main worry with all cerbs, well in fact THE main worry with all cerbs is chassis condition. You have to get that right before worrying about the engine. I'll be buying a beater for when there is salt on the roads, but am not 100% against taking out in rain provided chassis is protected (I've got an imminent painting session pencilled in!) In this respect though I think considering it to be a daily driver over the depths of winter is perhaps asking a little for trouble, the salt will do its worst, or that's my fear. I'll not be risking it.... will be very hard to do so on those dry 'snappy' days though that pop up inbetween freezing spells but with salt on road, I rekon I'd take it for a blast but give it a good wash on my return.
Then you have clutch, but it's not such a biggy - you'll want to see it done within the last 20K miles or so or you can expect it to come around again.
A 4.5 will take around 8 miles to get fully up to temperature (oil, NOT water!) and that's during the summer, so for your journey, you'll be taking it easy for the first half of it..
I would hazzard a guess that 99% of the 4.2s would have snapped their cranks by now and had them replaced, or they'll not be affected, so on a well looked after 4.2 it's probably not an issue, but just be aware of it (I think it was the 1997 cars)
Epic cars.
Thanks guys.
I guess (as with most TVR's) the electrics are dependant on the weather and time of the month
?
Are Cerbs quite water tight if kept outside/used daily?
Are there any common parts to check for chassis rust, probably out riggers? Why the hell did TVR not galvanise their chassis?
I agree, they are epic cars - I have seen UK Bobs and Plugs cars up close and they are something rather special!
For what you get I can stomach some ownership niggles but I'd want to avoid the big stuff like engine or chassis rebuilds
I'm considering selling on my Audi which is a reliable and quick little car and has been fun for over 2 years and going for the dream but I do need to gen up 1st as I'm sure that the dream can easily become a nightmare if you buy a wrong 'un!
Is the general rule "don't buy too cheap"?
I guess (as with most TVR's) the electrics are dependant on the weather and time of the month
?Are Cerbs quite water tight if kept outside/used daily?
Are there any common parts to check for chassis rust, probably out riggers? Why the hell did TVR not galvanise their chassis?
I agree, they are epic cars - I have seen UK Bobs and Plugs cars up close and they are something rather special!
For what you get I can stomach some ownership niggles but I'd want to avoid the big stuff like engine or chassis rebuilds
I'm considering selling on my Audi which is a reliable and quick little car and has been fun for over 2 years and going for the dream but I do need to gen up 1st as I'm sure that the dream can easily become a nightmare if you buy a wrong 'un!
Is the general rule "don't buy too cheap"?
>Is the general rule "don't buy too cheap"?
Price is irrelevant, just buy the right one. Spending 3K more on a similar car will not insulate you from problems and despite what most current owners think, there are real bargains to be had IMO. £10K is *easily* enough to get a nice one if you take your time. I looked at a few and am extactic with what I ended up with - niggles aside
I'm in a car that should it throw a piston our the block, whilst hurting, would be just about savable. If I'd bought at the upper level of my budget this size of emergency fund would have been decemated. No reason why my engine should have issues anyway, was rebuilt 10K ago already 
..... this was a big point on my car that made me want it, and similar do pop up - although you have to be careful who built it aswell, there are a few good people to look out for, APM and TVR power come to mind.
I really think you will struggle to get much temp into it in the morning though, mate. If I head to london I pop through 1 mile of 30zone, then onto a DC. It can take easy 16 miles before it's 'starting to get warm'. On the b-roads where I go few a few stops/acceleration cycles I'll be up to temp in less distance. You can hurry heatup along though, but varying revs/accelerating, but you don't want to be >3.5KRPM when not up to good oil temp, and doing 70mph in anything other than 5th makes this impossible. Of course fitment of a oil temp thermostat, or even having an electric oilsump preheater could both mean you are able to play more quickly (TBH, with the DC start, I'd recommend looking to a thermostat).
Mine is 99% watertight - I have no issue leaving it outside.
On the flipside, these things don't have much in the way of complicated electronics to worry about, so what they lack in mechanical robustness, is offset by simplicity of fix that most owners take on themselves provided the job isn't too involved.
Price is irrelevant, just buy the right one. Spending 3K more on a similar car will not insulate you from problems and despite what most current owners think, there are real bargains to be had IMO. £10K is *easily* enough to get a nice one if you take your time. I looked at a few and am extactic with what I ended up with - niggles aside
I'm in a car that should it throw a piston our the block, whilst hurting, would be just about savable. If I'd bought at the upper level of my budget this size of emergency fund would have been decemated. No reason why my engine should have issues anyway, was rebuilt 10K ago already ..... this was a big point on my car that made me want it, and similar do pop up - although you have to be careful who built it aswell, there are a few good people to look out for, APM and TVR power come to mind.I really think you will struggle to get much temp into it in the morning though, mate. If I head to london I pop through 1 mile of 30zone, then onto a DC. It can take easy 16 miles before it's 'starting to get warm'. On the b-roads where I go few a few stops/acceleration cycles I'll be up to temp in less distance. You can hurry heatup along though, but varying revs/accelerating, but you don't want to be >3.5KRPM when not up to good oil temp, and doing 70mph in anything other than 5th makes this impossible. Of course fitment of a oil temp thermostat, or even having an electric oilsump preheater could both mean you are able to play more quickly (TBH, with the DC start, I'd recommend looking to a thermostat).
Mine is 99% watertight - I have no issue leaving it outside.
On the flipside, these things don't have much in the way of complicated electronics to worry about, so what they lack in mechanical robustness, is offset by simplicity of fix that most owners take on themselves provided the job isn't too involved.
Pesonally I would never have a Cerb as an everyday car. An 'only' car will always get used to 'nip' down the shops, and short hops to Tesco, and in the long run, that is bad for a car like the Cerb. You can get a decent runaround for under a grand, and enjoy the Cerb at weekends, sounds extravagant, but that's what owing a Cerbera is :-)
Edited by JensenA on Thursday 3rd September 19:17
Mine is garaged but leaks like mad into drivers footwell if left outside!
I know plenty use cerbs everyday but i would suggest a second car this way you appreciate your cerb more when you do drive it & you will need something else when it lets you down...which it will...alot!
I love mine loads & wouldnt swap it but they are a rollercoster car plenty of ups & downs.
Good luck with your search & nothing matches the sense of occasion a cerb brings.
I know plenty use cerbs everyday but i would suggest a second car this way you appreciate your cerb more when you do drive it & you will need something else when it lets you down...which it will...alot!
I love mine loads & wouldnt swap it but they are a rollercoster car plenty of ups & downs.
Good luck with your search & nothing matches the sense of occasion a cerb brings.
JensenA said:
Pesonally I would never have a Cerb as an everyday car. An 'only' car will always get used to 'nip' down the shops, and short hops to Tesco, and in the long run, that is bad for a car like the Cerb. You can get a decent runaround for under a grand, and enjoy the Cerb at weekends, sounds extravagant, but that's what owing a Cerbera is :-)
Wot he says.Have you looked at the S6 Cerbs?
Thanks all for the very good points raised.
Although this would be "my" main car we do also have a daily use car of my wifes and I also have an MGB.
I would use the Cerb a fair amount but it would never have any short hops for shopping - if I did I'd be taking the scenic route
The trip to work can be taken easily until the engine gets to working temp and the journey is 30 - 40 mins each way which is likely to be OK to get upto to a good operating temp.
The S6?
That's the serpentine engine, right?
That is a bespoke TVR lump isn't it?
Did they not have a fair bit of trouble with them?
Apologies for my ignorance, I'm on a learning curve!
Although this would be "my" main car we do also have a daily use car of my wifes and I also have an MGB.
I would use the Cerb a fair amount but it would never have any short hops for shopping - if I did I'd be taking the scenic route
The trip to work can be taken easily until the engine gets to working temp and the journey is 30 - 40 mins each way which is likely to be OK to get upto to a good operating temp.
The S6?
That's the serpentine engine, right?
That is a bespoke TVR lump isn't it?
Did they not have a fair bit of trouble with them?
Apologies for my ignorance, I'm on a learning curve!
Kentish said:
Thanks all for the very good points raised.
Although this would be "my" main car we do also have a daily use car of my wifes and I also have an MGB.
I would use the Cerb a fair amount but it would never have any short hops for shopping - if I did I'd be taking the scenic route
The trip to work can be taken easily until the engine gets to working temp and the journey is 30 - 40 mins each way which is likely to be OK to get upto to a good operating temp.
The S6?
That's the serpentine engine, right?
That is a bespoke TVR lump isn't it?
Did they not have a fair bit of trouble with them?
Apologies for my ignorance, I'm on a learning curve!
It is an inline 6 engine, bespoke TVR, it has a few design issues though... you'll want to look through all the threads on this and indeed the speed6 engine section on this forum, it was fitted in various capacities to:Although this would be "my" main car we do also have a daily use car of my wifes and I also have an MGB.
I would use the Cerb a fair amount but it would never have any short hops for shopping - if I did I'd be taking the scenic route
The trip to work can be taken easily until the engine gets to working temp and the journey is 30 - 40 mins each way which is likely to be OK to get upto to a good operating temp.
The S6?
That's the serpentine engine, right?
That is a bespoke TVR lump isn't it?
Did they not have a fair bit of trouble with them?
Apologies for my ignorance, I'm on a learning curve!
Tuscan
Tuscan2
Tamora
T350
Sagaris
Cerbera
In my opinion, the AJP8 really makes the Cerbera, and since it doesn't come in any other car (unless you want to road legal a tuscan challenge car!) I'd certainly be looking for one of those, when I eventually get enough money to buy one, until then I'm very happy with my Chimaera (Rover V8, which is very different again).
977 said:
Kentish said:
Thanks all for the very good points raised.
Although this would be "my" main car we do also have a daily use car of my wifes and I also have an MGB.
I would use the Cerb a fair amount but it would never have any short hops for shopping - if I did I'd be taking the scenic route
The trip to work can be taken easily until the engine gets to working temp and the journey is 30 - 40 mins each way which is likely to be OK to get upto to a good operating temp.
The S6?
That's the serpentine engine, right?
That is a bespoke TVR lump isn't it?
Did they not have a fair bit of trouble with them?
Apologies for my ignorance, I'm on a learning curve!
It is an inline 6 engine, bespoke TVR, it has a few design issues though... you'll want to look through all the threads on this and indeed the speed6 engine section on this forum, it was fitted in various capacities to:Although this would be "my" main car we do also have a daily use car of my wifes and I also have an MGB.
I would use the Cerb a fair amount but it would never have any short hops for shopping - if I did I'd be taking the scenic route
The trip to work can be taken easily until the engine gets to working temp and the journey is 30 - 40 mins each way which is likely to be OK to get upto to a good operating temp.
The S6?
That's the serpentine engine, right?
That is a bespoke TVR lump isn't it?
Did they not have a fair bit of trouble with them?
Apologies for my ignorance, I'm on a learning curve!
Tuscan
Tuscan2
Tamora
T350
Sagaris
Cerbera
In my opinion, the AJP8 really makes the Cerbera, and since it doesn't come in any other car (unless you want to road legal a tuscan challenge car!) I'd certainly be looking for one of those, when I eventually get enough money to buy one, until then I'm very happy with my Chimaera (Rover V8, which is very different again).
A Chim is my next option should a Cerb be too much of a risky proposition as a regular use car.
However, I know that a Chim without a leaking roof is quite rare!
My S series wasn't particularly water tight and had a very similar design of roof.
A Chim is so much different from a Cerbera. The RV8 and the AJP8 are completely different worlds.
A 'high' mileage s6 Cerbera should be fine, and cheaper (to run) than the 8. Better economy, about the same performance, and don't underestimate the soundbyte: it's still impressive.
Most 'standard' V8 cars have 320-340 brake on tap, which is about the same as a straight 6 has. Or a beefy RV8 5 litre.
Uprated V8s come near to 400 and believe me: when such an ajp8 goes it goes! Motorbike-ish.
Forget about the +2 option. I'd see it as extra luggage space.
A 'high' mileage s6 Cerbera should be fine, and cheaper (to run) than the 8. Better economy, about the same performance, and don't underestimate the soundbyte: it's still impressive.
Most 'standard' V8 cars have 320-340 brake on tap, which is about the same as a straight 6 has. Or a beefy RV8 5 litre.
Uprated V8s come near to 400 and believe me: when such an ajp8 goes it goes! Motorbike-ish.
Forget about the +2 option. I'd see it as extra luggage space.
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