Lambda sensors
Discussion
My MIL light was coming on and the ECU showed fault codes for both lambdas, so both have just been replaced. Picked the car up and all was fine initially, but after a few miles the car started to stumble on part throttle. Now it decelerates on small throttle openings. I drove it home trying to alternate between no throttle and enough for it to run smoothly. Wider throttle openings are fine and it idles ok.
I suspect my lambda sensors have been connected with the wires swapped and the adaptives are now at extremes. My question is what should be written on each sensor wire and is it easier to get to them from underneath or from above? I would take it back but it's hassle, so if it's an easy fix I'll just D.I.M. Cheers all..
I suspect my lambda sensors have been connected with the wires swapped and the adaptives are now at extremes. My question is what should be written on each sensor wire and is it easier to get to them from underneath or from above? I would take it back but it's hassle, so if it's an easy fix I'll just D.I.M. Cheers all..
stuthemong said:
garage may have reset the adaptives in the ECU - may take a few miles to relearn?
Stu, that's totally incorrect.If It don't feel right it has a problem.
Rodg plug up the laptop, check the adaptives, if one bank shows all 0's then the plugs are back to front, oh you can get them from on top, take the pipes, and panel off for better access.
When I collected my car from Andy@APM he told me, "adaptives just been reset, it will be pretty juddery for a while until it's relearned, don't worry about that". Of course, this could be another problem, but surely after an adaptive reset it will be a bit 'off colour' - plugging a laptop in is the best tonic, for sure.
I think it all depends where your adaptives 'should be'. If you car is set up such that the adaptives settle down at +12 and -9, then resetting them to zero will make it lumpy until those levels are re-learnt. My car usually runs adaptives near zero which is why resetting them doesn't cause it to run poorly.
Nickccc said:
stuthemong said:
garage may have reset the adaptives in the ECU - may take a few miles to relearn?
Stu, that's totally incorrect.If It don't feel right it has a problem.
Rodg plug up the laptop, check the adaptives, if one bank shows all 0's then the plugs are back to front, oh you can get them from on top, take the pipes, and panel off for better access.
Nickccc said:
Probably best to reset them, if your anywhere near Brands tommorrow
I'll bring the laptop and do it for you.
Thanks but have to work today. Changed them round last night, quite a fiddly job because it has to be done one-handed. Will hopefully get to drive it this evening to see if it fixes itself I'll bring the laptop and do it for you.
Just to finish off my little monologue, the MBE is a fast learner and it started to feel better even before the temp gauge was past 70. One of the benefits of a heated o2 sensor no doubt. After an hour of driving it's back to it's competition-embarrassing best with no hint there was ever a problem. Happy days
I don't think you can connect the plug incorrectly unless they are on the
wrong way.
I had a missfire on on bank, though I replacer the throttle pots it still remained,
I then started looking at the throttle pot wiring, pull back the boot and inspect, you'll
see if there is any damage as the wire can easily be stretched, you may see discolouring
to the outer cover. This had been caused when the engine bad been removed and refitted.
If not I'd be looking at taking the pipes off and checking the airflow with the syncrometer, if it's obviously
higher on the bank with the problem then you may have a crack or gap in the inlet manifold
of maybe the exhaust manifold. Easy way to check is to spray a bit of easy start around the bass of the inlet manifold
and see if the revs flare up.
(it wasn't Austec that damaged the wiring and manifold,
a previous rebuild)
this maynot be your problem, maybe a coil pack or ht lead related.
But check the airflow first to rule that out.
After looking at your other thread, id agree with what is being said, regards lamdas, throttle pots ect, as your problem is only happening in closed loop it must be part of that system.
wrong way.
I had a missfire on on bank, though I replacer the throttle pots it still remained,
I then started looking at the throttle pot wiring, pull back the boot and inspect, you'll
see if there is any damage as the wire can easily be stretched, you may see discolouring
to the outer cover. This had been caused when the engine bad been removed and refitted.
If not I'd be looking at taking the pipes off and checking the airflow with the syncrometer, if it's obviously
higher on the bank with the problem then you may have a crack or gap in the inlet manifold
of maybe the exhaust manifold. Easy way to check is to spray a bit of easy start around the bass of the inlet manifold
and see if the revs flare up.
(it wasn't Austec that damaged the wiring and manifold,
a previous rebuild)
this maynot be your problem, maybe a coil pack or ht lead related.
But check the airflow first to rule that out.
Edited by Nickccc on Friday 11th September 19:55
After looking at your other thread, id agree with what is being said, regards lamdas, throttle pots ect, as your problem is only happening in closed loop it must be part of that system.
Edited by Nickccc on Friday 11th September 20:22
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