Rear anti roll bar removal?

[ridds]

Can you get it out with the body on and the car about 10 inches off the ground on axle stands?

Before I spend a few hours trying to do it.....

[Ireland]

On my car the rear ARB is under the car and will come off easily enough.

Assuming yours is under the car too then you'll have no bother.

Half an hour at the most.

[ridds]

Ahhh yeah forgot about the differences, nope mine is the one that's up top.

Managed to get the one off Marks car ok but there was the slight difference of that not having the body on at the time.

[Ireland]

You can forget about the half an hour theory so.

[BCA]

hacksaw?

(no, seriously.)

[Luckyone]

A hacksaw would defo be easiest way! But I wanted to keep it on one piece just in case…

So in answer to your question: Yes, I got the upper type out with the car just on axle stands, took a bit of persuading though. It was a very long time ago now, I happened to have the diff out at the time but I’m 90% sure that isn’t necessary.
What I did need to do though was disconnect the upper wishbone from the upright & I’m sure I needed the extra movement in the upright from the drive shaft not being connected to the diff, I think I may have needed to take the drive shaft out all together. I’ve a vague recollection of having to move the fuel pump also – so I’d go the other side, I think I had to go that side as the car was too close to the garage wall on the drivers side to get it out as it’s so long. If you remember to allow for that before you get it up on the stands & I’m sure you’ll be ok

[JensenA]

I'm sure I read somewhere that you can simply disconnect it from the drop links, and leave it in place.

[Mad Mark]

Thats all I have done.
Just disconnected it and tied it up out the way

[Greeny]

Mad Mark said:

Thats all I have done.
Just disconnected it and tied it up out the way

Mine is also done like this

[lewis_sharman]

Sorry if this is a numpty question, but why would you want to remove it?

[ridds]

Reports of additional grip from rear end due to wheels not being linked.

Tried it before but realised my springs were too soft for that set-up. Now have new stiffer springs and want to try it again.

Have also read of issues with just disconnecting one side (which was all I did previously) so was going to go the whole hog.

Think I'll just stick with one side again for now then.

[jesfirth]

Ridds - removal or diconnection will give you more grip out of the slow speed corners BTH you can get an eqivalent amount of additional grip just by using better tyres. try R888's SG if the width/size is right

It will also give you alot of understeer in high speed ie 70mph plus corners and more roll.

It is a trade off unless you have very stiff (600lbs) and properly damped springs in which case it may work.

I run without my rear ARB at slow tracks, slower hill climbs (sub 100mph) etc and in the rain and fit it for normal ciruits and dry days becasue the undesteer is so bad on the limit in fast bends with it off.

It really depends on your driving style and use.

cheers

Jes

[ridds]

Yep that's what found previously when I ran without it.

tbh stepping up to the 450 springs has transformed it so I'm going to leave it as it is for now. Could really do with a little more damping control but it's ok at the moment. Changing this will mean revalving the dampers.

After finally sorting my arch clearance issues (265/35-18 rears) and having a back end that doesn't drag itself up the road when you floor it I'm starting to enjoy driving it again!

Next up, to sort the tramlining....

[jesfirth]

tramlining - mm thats a trade off between turn in (negative camber i use 2.25 degrees and have bad tramlining on the motorway) and less camber and therefore less tramlining or perhaps 16's or 17's but you probably wont want to change from 18's