Heads Off today.Damaged valve guides + sludge?Advice?
Discussion
Been stripping the engine ready for a rebuild: (http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=6&t=753541&mid=180323&nmt=Engine not in car!)
Got the heads off today, and came accross these damaged valve guides in every exhaust port in the passenger side bank:
As the damage is identical on every exhaust valve guide on the passenger bank, i was thinking that maybe they are meant to be like this, but the other banks exhaust valve guides are fine, no damage or wear? Anyone know why this could have happened?
Also came accross a large amount of 'sludge in the cooling area around the cylinders, looking like its blocking the flow quite badly:
And a lump of limescale looking stuff?
Anyone advise on the best way to clean all this out thoroughly and a way of checking that all the internal stufff is also unblocked?
Got the heads off today, and came accross these damaged valve guides in every exhaust port in the passenger side bank:
As the damage is identical on every exhaust valve guide on the passenger bank, i was thinking that maybe they are meant to be like this, but the other banks exhaust valve guides are fine, no damage or wear? Anyone know why this could have happened?
Also came accross a large amount of 'sludge in the cooling area around the cylinders, looking like its blocking the flow quite badly:
And a lump of limescale looking stuff?
Anyone advise on the best way to clean all this out thoroughly and a way of checking that all the internal stufff is also unblocked?
Also just for my information what is this sealant around the outside of the cylinders for?:
The silicone is coming away in some places, so just wanted to know a bit more about it and whether it needs sorting while the engine is in bits.
Also - Is it advisable to use new head nuts when rebuilding the engine, as it is using new head bolts on other engines?
- Do the valve stem seals just pull off?
Sorry for all the questions, better safe than sorry eh
The silicone is coming away in some places, so just wanted to know a bit more about it and whether it needs sorting while the engine is in bits.
Also - Is it advisable to use new head nuts when rebuilding the engine, as it is using new head bolts on other engines?
- Do the valve stem seals just pull off?
Sorry for all the questions, better safe than sorry eh
i had a lot of sludge in mine when I stripped it down, so I blasted through everything with a jetwasher, but mine was completely stripped down to bare crankcase ect.
the silicon is there to seal the liners into the crankcase I`d leave this well alone unless you plan to remove the liners, or you`ll have coolant in the sump.
yes the valve guide oil seals just pull off, but make sure you can get replacements first though.
the silicon is there to seal the liners into the crankcase I`d leave this well alone unless you plan to remove the liners, or you`ll have coolant in the sump.
yes the valve guide oil seals just pull off, but make sure you can get replacements first though.
Edited by clive f on Monday 12th October 22:09
it's no big deal to pull the liners out and then you can clean the block out much easier. They can be levered out from the top or tapped out from the bottom. refitting is pretty easy, just cover the bottom with sealant and push them back down in the holes. Suggest you take out all the blanking plugs for the oilways and give the block a thorough clean and blow out with compressed air. Mine were smegged up to hell, same on the head too.
Access to the liners from the bottom is a bit restricted with the crank and rods in place but for what they cost have them out and replace the bearings, standard Rover 4.6 parts on later AJPs of both sizes. 2" big ends and 2.5" mains.
Is just the angle of the pic or are those liners machined for wire rings?
Jon
Access to the liners from the bottom is a bit restricted with the crank and rods in place but for what they cost have them out and replace the bearings, standard Rover 4.6 parts on later AJPs of both sizes. 2" big ends and 2.5" mains.
Is just the angle of the pic or are those liners machined for wire rings?
Jon
John,
I've got my block all stripped down atm and was considering whipping out the liners - I'm just concerned that they won't go back in quite the same again and that I'll struggle to get them all at the same height. Are they easy to relocate properly or am I opening up a world of pain?
I've got the crank etc out so is it just a case of applying pressure from the bottom and pushing in by hand when it's all cleaned out?
I've never played with engines with liners before!
Jim.
I've got my block all stripped down atm and was considering whipping out the liners - I'm just concerned that they won't go back in quite the same again and that I'll struggle to get them all at the same height. Are they easy to relocate properly or am I opening up a world of pain?
I've got the crank etc out so is it just a case of applying pressure from the bottom and pushing in by hand when it's all cleaned out?
I've never played with engines with liners before!
Jim.
fatjon said:
it's no big deal to pull the liners out and then you can clean the block out much easier. They can be levered out from the top or tapped out from the bottom. refitting is pretty easy, just cover the bottom with sealant and push them back down in the holes. Suggest you take out all the blanking plugs for the oilways and give the block a thorough clean and blow out with compressed air. Mine were smegged up to hell, same on the head too.
Access to the liners from the bottom is a bit restricted with the crank and rods in place but for what they cost have them out and replace the bearings, standard Rover 4.6 parts on later AJPs of both sizes. 2" big ends and 2.5" mains.
Is just the angle of the pic or are those liners machined for wire rings?
Jon
Access to the liners from the bottom is a bit restricted with the crank and rods in place but for what they cost have them out and replace the bearings, standard Rover 4.6 parts on later AJPs of both sizes. 2" big ends and 2.5" mains.
Is just the angle of the pic or are those liners machined for wire rings?
Jon
FWIW on the seloc forum I was reading some advice from an engine builder there about different types of sealant to use in and around the engine.
Thusly,
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=236735
"The problem with any selant that is not anearobic is that any excess that squeezes out of the join will harden and can easily drop off and clog the oil pickup strainer. an engine doesnt live long with a margianl oil supply. I would therefore advise you never to use silicone or other non anaerobic sealants where excess can appear within the engine void." Dave Andrews, awesome K series tuner extraordinaire.
So take that into consideration when rebuilding
Thusly,
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=236735
"The problem with any selant that is not anearobic is that any excess that squeezes out of the join will harden and can easily drop off and clog the oil pickup strainer. an engine doesnt live long with a margianl oil supply. I would therefore advise you never to use silicone or other non anaerobic sealants where excess can appear within the engine void." Dave Andrews, awesome K series tuner extraordinaire.
So take that into consideration when rebuilding
Jason, I'm no mechanic but it appears that that bank has gotten very hot. Weird thing is it also appears to be running rich, lean misfire?? How does the pistons look? Detonation due to lean misfire should show up on the pistons. Does crankcase pressure in the Cerby vent to one bank? If so then the oil vapour could cause a lean misfire. Other than that fuel rail pressure, or possibly a blocked intake (but I would have thougth that would run a bank rich), common injector earth?.... I have no idea, however there isnt a tonne that's bank specific.
The liners on mine came out without any big fight and after cleaning up and smearing with sealer they slid back in dead easy. The liners need no height adjustment, just try to put them back in the same hole they came out of I suppose. I didn't even bother with that as if you buy new ones they are all the same anyway. Silicone sealer getting into the sump is a theoretical problem but after you fit the liners you can can easily get to the bottom and clean off the excess on an AJP engine. Anyway it's just as theoreticaly possible that the same sealant could end up in the sump from the cam covers, timing cover or anywhere else it's used and could break loose and be washed down with the oil to the sump. After a few thousand miles there will be worse sh$t than that in the sump.
Redmist336 said:
Jason, I'm no mechanic but it appears that that bank has gotten very hot. Weird thing is it also appears to be running rich, lean misfire?? How does the pistons look? Detonation due to lean misfire should show up on the pistons. Does crankcase pressure in the Cerby vent to one bank? If so then the oil vapour could cause a lean misfire. Other than that fuel rail pressure, or possibly a blocked intake (but I would have thougth that would run a bank rich), common injector earth?.... I have no idea, however there isnt a tonne that's bank specific.
the water pump has two sets of vanes, one per bank. May be worth a look and make sure it still has two and they both turn. Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff