The neck bone's connected to the Ankle bone and th.....
Discussion
Dear All,
Hi, sorry, it's the idiot with the spanner again.
The bad news is: My throttle cable snapped last week.
The good news is: Clever Trevor delevered one to my door yesterday
The bad news is: I've already had to remove the air box and am now having to remove the driver's seat to get access.
I've taken out the two 1/2 AF nuts from the back of the seat but cannot find how to access the the front (two ?) nuts.
Has anyone had their seat out before and found how to do it ??
She's a 2001 4.5 with Tuscan-style seats.
Many thanks.
Mr. Brokeback Mountain
Hi, sorry, it's the idiot with the spanner again.
The bad news is: My throttle cable snapped last week.
The good news is: Clever Trevor delevered one to my door yesterday
The bad news is: I've already had to remove the air box and am now having to remove the driver's seat to get access.
I've taken out the two 1/2 AF nuts from the back of the seat but cannot find how to access the the front (two ?) nuts.
Has anyone had their seat out before and found how to do it ??
She's a 2001 4.5 with Tuscan-style seats.
Many thanks.
Mr. Brokeback Mountain
Why do you have to remove the driver seat?? Recline the back rest, sit on the seat facing the rear, and get your head down in the footwell - Did no one mention you have to be an amateur contortionist to work on a Cerb 
The seats are held in place with 4 bolts and you should be able to see them all under the car. The easiest way is to get the angle grinder out and cut them off. Failing that you'll need a big wide flat headed screwdriver to press the heads of the bolts down into the runners, whilst at the same time lying underneath the car and undoing the nuts!
The seats are held in place with 4 bolts and you should be able to see them all under the car. The easiest way is to get the angle grinder out and cut them off. Failing that you'll need a big wide flat headed screwdriver to press the heads of the bolts down into the runners, whilst at the same time lying underneath the car and undoing the nuts!
JensenA said:
Why do you have to remove the driver seat?? Recline the back rest, sit on the seat facing the rear, and get your head down in the footwell - Did no one mention you have to be an amateur contortionist to work on a Cerb
THANKS alan, Yup ? well I did it that way to change the pedals but I just thought it was so Mickey-Mouse that I thought there mist be a more professional way to do it - Stupid Boy, Pike !JensenA said:
The seats are held in place with 4 bolts and you should be able to see them all under the car. The easiest way is to get the angle grinder out and cut them off. Failing that you'll need a big wide flat headed screwdriver to press the heads of the bolts down into the runners, whilst at the same time lying underneath the car and undoing the nuts!
Thanks for that (although at first reading it does seem that I either have to defy the laws of physics or be (at least) two people).Will give it a good coat of looking at, Ta !
go angle grinder!! 
its fast and easier unless you have arms like an orangutan trying to hold the bolt down from above.
the fun and games haven't started yet, wait till tou've got to thread the cable through the bulkhead and then it goes off and up around the back of the brake master cylinder, oh and the 2 bolts that hold it to the side of the pedal box are a little tricky too.
stick with it and take your time and i'm sure it will all go well, 2 tips: tie a piece of string around the old one, this will help when refitting. and don't try to squeeze to far up into the footwell (got my shoulders wedge last time and needed to be pulled out by helpful but laughing neighbour
)
its fast and easier unless you have arms like an orangutan trying to hold the bolt down from above.the fun and games haven't started yet, wait till tou've got to thread the cable through the bulkhead and then it goes off and up around the back of the brake master cylinder, oh and the 2 bolts that hold it to the side of the pedal box are a little tricky too.
stick with it and take your time and i'm sure it will all go well, 2 tips: tie a piece of string around the old one, this will help when refitting. and don't try to squeeze to far up into the footwell (got my shoulders wedge last time and needed to be pulled out by helpful but laughing neighbour
)Cheers Alex,
had already compiled this before I received your answer. Thanks for the tips
Well, can't see anything of the outer cable from the footwell but I presume it is this coming out of the bulkhead seal.
If I just pull it through I guess I'll be stuffed !
The cable has an external abutment on it which won't allow me to pull it through from the footwell end so should I pull the rubber sealer from the inner wing or unscrew the 'elbow' panel that looks bonded on to the inner wing just next door ?
Elbow to bottom left here.....
and to the bottom right here.
had already compiled this before I received your answer. Thanks for the tips
Well, can't see anything of the outer cable from the footwell but I presume it is this coming out of the bulkhead seal.
If I just pull it through I guess I'll be stuffed !
The cable has an external abutment on it which won't allow me to pull it through from the footwell end so should I pull the rubber sealer from the inner wing or unscrew the 'elbow' panel that looks bonded on to the inner wing just next door ?
Elbow to bottom left here.....
and to the bottom right here.
Edited by Mr.Cerbera on Tuesday 13th October 21:11
you will find it goes through the gromet into the footwell turns 90 degrees back through the pedal box, around the back of the master cylinders and servo and pops out the far side of the pedal box. the cable will pull through the gromet (pushing the temp sensor through is the real challenge) to make life easier it will be better to prise out the rubber gromet that the cable goes through and the master cylinder cover (elbow thing), be careful though it has 3 screws 12 o'clock,3 o'clock and 9o'clock hidden under the sealant. try pulling the cable out the other way though as i seem to remeber that its smaller the other end, you may also find that the cable has been cable tied to either the brake or clutch master cylinder but this all depends on wether your car was built on a monday or a friday
use plenty of sealant when refitting! it would be a whole lot easier if they just sold the inner cable with a nipple you could attach yourself
use plenty of sealant when refitting! it would be a whole lot easier if they just sold the inner cable with a nipple you could attach yourself
Edited by al 350i on Tuesday 13th October 22:27
Slightly off topic but I happened to notice the picture. This is exactly where the heat shielding on mine began to break up and it caught fire! No serious damage as I was just outside the garage and it was out within seconds. Yours looks about the same so while the air box is off you might want to fix it!
al 350i said:
you will find it goes through the gromet into the footwell turns 90 degrees back through the pedal box, around the back of the master cylinders and servo and pops out the far side of the pedal box. the cable will pull through the gromet (pushing the temp sensor through is the real challenge) to make life easier it will be better to prise out the rubber gromet that the cable goes through and the master cylinder cover (elbow thing), be careful though it has 3 screws 12 o'clock,3 o'clock and 9o'clock hidden under the sealant. try pulling the cable out the other way though as i seem to remeber that its smaller the other end, you may also find that the cable has been cable tied to either the brake or clutch master cylinder but this all depends on wether your car was built on a monday or a friday
Thanks Alex,Eventually removed the seat - No thanks to TVR. Why on Earth they couldn't quickly spot the bolts onto the runners to remove the requirement to be 'the King of the Swingers' I 'll never know. A bloody Ford Escort costing less than one tenth gets that bit of sanity at least.
Y'know I've seen some s
t engineering in my 53 years on this planet but the jokers who laughingly called themselves engineers who designed this throttle cable system should never be employed in the business agin - an absolute catastrophe !Lost three fingers and my temper - Thank God there's beer to calm me at night. Utter w
kERS !fatjon said:
Slightly off topic but I happened to notice the picture. This is exactly where the heat shielding on mine began to break up and it caught fire! No serious damage as I was just outside the garage and it was out within seconds. Yours looks about the same so while the air box is off you might want to fix it!
I'll try and do that. Any idea where I can get the heat-resisting material from ??
I presume it also requires some special type of adhesive ??
Ta,
PJ
Edited by Mr.Cerbera on Wednesday 14th October 19:58
I've just used this (About 1/2 way down the page)
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/tvr-part-category/2-b...
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/tvr-part-category/2-b...
Cheers Als,
Have ordered heat kit - TVM for the link.
(Wish I'd done that when I ordered the Cable. £8,25 postage for each pack beer up)
Decided to tack-weld the bolts in place
Have ordered heat kit - TVM for the link.
(Wish I'd done that when I ordered the Cable. £8,25 postage for each pack beer up)
Decided to tack-weld the bolts in place
al 350i said:
.... probably not so easy now you only have 5 fingers
Yup, wife is getting really worried Edited by Mr.Cerbera on Thursday 15th October 09:05
JensenA said:
Mr.Cerbera said:
Cheers Als,
Have ordered heat kit - TVM for the link.
(Wish I'd done that when I ordered the Cable. £8,25 postage for each pack beer up)
Don't forget to order the adhesive (like I did Have ordered heat kit - TVM for the link.
(Wish I'd done that when I ordered the Cable. £8,25 postage for each pack beer up)
)(and also ordered the Alloy tape)Ta for reminding ma anyway, It's something I would usually have forgotten left to my own deviencies
darreni said:
Go to any good bike shop & get a 2mm braided stainless inner brake cable.
You can buy nipples for the throttle linkage end from a good motorbike shop.
Total cost a couple of quid & dead easy to thread the new inner into the old outer.
... an you've actually done this on a Cerb, Darren ?? You can buy nipples for the throttle linkage end from a good motorbike shop.
Total cost a couple of quid & dead easy to thread the new inner into the old outer.
Mr.Cerbera said:
darreni said:
Go to any good bike shop & get a 2mm braided stainless inner brake cable.
You can buy nipples for the throttle linkage end from a good motorbike shop.
Total cost a couple of quid & dead easy to thread the new inner into the old outer.
... an you've actually done this on a Cerb, Darren ?? You can buy nipples for the throttle linkage end from a good motorbike shop.
Total cost a couple of quid & dead easy to thread the new inner into the old outer.
Mine was a 97 4.2, can't comment on the other engines.
darreni said:
Mr.Cerbera said:
darreni said:
Go to any good bike shop & get a 2mm braided stainless inner brake cable.
You can buy nipples for the throttle linkage end from a good motorbike shop.
Total cost a couple of quid & dead easy to thread the new inner into the old outer.
... an you've actually done this on a Cerb, Darren ?? You can buy nipples for the throttle linkage end from a good motorbike shop.
Total cost a couple of quid & dead easy to thread the new inner into the old outer.
Mine was a 97 4.2, can't comment on the other engines.
Can't omagine how an inner would have made that journey
As long as the inside of the outer cable is not totally fooked, its fairly simple.
you snip the nipple off at the linkage end, & pull the inner out from the pedals.
Then you thread the new inner from the pedal end & it will appear in the engine bay, add adjustible brass nipple & adjust length to suit.
Note that you must use a good quality MTB brake cable inner, i used the woven stainless 2mm shimano XTR type, as id used these for years when MTB racing & they had never let me down.
Try to get a cable that has a pre cut & soldered smooth end & it will thread easily. If you buy one & cut it yourself, you will need to dremel the cut end smooth, into a dome shape, otherwise you end up with loose cable strands snagging & stopping you threading.
It may have been Jools that suggested this method, i'm not sure as it was a few years ago now.
I know that i had looked at replacing the inner & outer as one unit, but the job looked like a nightmare.
you snip the nipple off at the linkage end, & pull the inner out from the pedals.
Then you thread the new inner from the pedal end & it will appear in the engine bay, add adjustible brass nipple & adjust length to suit.
Note that you must use a good quality MTB brake cable inner, i used the woven stainless 2mm shimano XTR type, as id used these for years when MTB racing & they had never let me down.
Try to get a cable that has a pre cut & soldered smooth end & it will thread easily. If you buy one & cut it yourself, you will need to dremel the cut end smooth, into a dome shape, otherwise you end up with loose cable strands snagging & stopping you threading.
It may have been Jools that suggested this method, i'm not sure as it was a few years ago now.
I know that i had looked at replacing the inner & outer as one unit, but the job looked like a nightmare.
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