What's your gear change like?
Discussion
Hello all,
Having had a new clutch about 5 months/1400 miles ago, I'm still having problems with it - I think?
Coming out of gear seems quite a pull and when going into gear it seems notchy - ie as if having to push over/through something and then it slots in.
Trouble is, I can't remember what it was like before the new clutch - DOH!
All info appreciated.
MB
Having had a new clutch about 5 months/1400 miles ago, I'm still having problems with it - I think?
Coming out of gear seems quite a pull and when going into gear it seems notchy - ie as if having to push over/through something and then it slots in.
Trouble is, I can't remember what it was like before the new clutch - DOH!
All info appreciated.
MB
Hard to describe really....It's not as slick as a Honda gearbox - it doesn't 'click' into place, it 'clunks' solidly into place. I'd describe it, firm and positive, it's a 'manly' gearbox. The symptoms you describe are similar to when it's low on fluid and the clutch isn't engaging properly.
BLUETHUNDER said:
Having to push it hard in to gear,then it seems like a few fingers are broke.
Mine has a very 'engineered' feel to taking it out and putting it back in gear - but as Mark says, I did have a notch'y feel to it which became increasingly worse until you couldn't get it into gear - 2 fingers gone on the clutch.Jackal83 said:
I'm guessing it feels like your not quite pressing the cluch down far enough...
Does it do if you push your clutch right to the floor?????
Yeah, that's exactly what it feels like!.Does it do if you push your clutch right to the floor?????
Yes it does do it if you push the cluctch right to the floor.
Don't forget, it's a brand new clutch and it felt this way only a few hundred miles after it was installed!
MB
The symptoms suggest the clutch may not be releasing fully. If it's a new clutch hopefully it hasn't already broken the fingers (as I understand it, that is usually a fatigue failure). I'd look for a possible hydraulic problem first since that's most likely and also easiest and cheapest to fix. So check the clutch fluid level, and try bleeding the clutch and see if that helps.
However, before doing any of that I'd talk to the person who fitted it and ask what they recommended (on the basis that I'd be holding them responsible for any damage to the gearbox caused by a faulty clutch).
However, before doing any of that I'd talk to the person who fitted it and ask what they recommended (on the basis that I'd be holding them responsible for any damage to the gearbox caused by a faulty clutch).
I change gear with one finger!
If you find yourself fighting the gearchange there is something wrong with your car. Either the clutch as people have said, possibly some corrosion in the selector plate at the top of the gearbox, or the selector forks themselves.
Nine times out of ten, if you think theres a problem with the car drive someone else's
I have a T5 in bits in my garage if you want any pictures
If you find yourself fighting the gearchange there is something wrong with your car. Either the clutch as people have said, possibly some corrosion in the selector plate at the top of the gearbox, or the selector forks themselves.
Nine times out of ten, if you think theres a problem with the car drive someone else's
I have a T5 in bits in my garage if you want any pictures
My gear change gradually got more and more obstructive and when I had the problem investigated it was found that at the last change of the clutch they had liberally coated the gearbox input shaft with copper slip which had worked it's way onto the clutch plate causing some drag and preventing gear selection when stationary (not too bad on the move).
The only solution was a whole new clutch.
Fine now.
I would get your clutch bled before doing anything else though.
The only solution was a whole new clutch.
Fine now.
I would get your clutch bled before doing anything else though.
JensenA said:
Hard to describe really....It's not as slick as a Honda gearbox - it doesn't 'click' into place, it 'clunks' solidly into place. I'd describe it, firm and positive, it's a 'manly' gearbox. The symptoms you describe are similar to when it's low on fluid and the clutch isn't engaging properly.
Yeah it does feel like it's low on fluid and the clutch isn't engaging properly. Checked the fluid level yesterday and it's full and hasn't been topped up since the new clutch!MB
when i had my clutch changed you could hardly get it in and out of gear at all, so the garage dissmantled everything and skimmed the flywheel, works a treat now. maybe its to do with the flywheel? i couldnt understand it at the time but it seemed to do the trick with mine. well, i say that but im not convinced they had put it all back together right in the correct timing order on the clutch plates, but whatever, the dismantling, skimming and putting back together has worked.
When I had mine changed I got masses of vibration as the clutch bedded in over a few hundred miles.
The change itself should be smooth - not nothcy, check the clutch is fully down then i think it would be worth talking it back to whoever fitted it. Sounds like it's a bad job.
I should add I have also had a new clutch fail on me - surface of the clutch disintegrated. First signs of this were difficult changes.
The change itself should be smooth - not nothcy, check the clutch is fully down then i think it would be worth talking it back to whoever fitted it. Sounds like it's a bad job.
I should add I have also had a new clutch fail on me - surface of the clutch disintegrated. First signs of this were difficult changes.
Just an update - any further ideas?
The gear change under normal driving conditions is ok, but could be a bit more slick.
The cluitch fluid is up to the top, the clutch has been bled and the gearbox oil changed.
The main sympton now is the following...
Put into first gear and pull away (imagine in traffic) change into second and continue to pull away - traffic slows you down so you slow in 2nd with the brakes - you then decide that you will have to change back into first from second to prevent stalling - so you depress clutch and try to change, but it doesn't want to know - it's stuck! You have to basically heave it out of gear as if trying to change without a clutch. It's now in neutral, so press clutch and it goes into first and second etc etc no problem. Slow down again and go to change down from second to first or 3rd to second and again it's stuck. Also if you keep the clutch pressed in when it's stuck, you can start to smell the clutch as though your gicing it some when pulling away.
Cheers
MB
Clutch not disengaging correctly for certain.
The low speed causes increased load on the gears.
e.g. if you accel then lift off you will find a point where you can knock out of gear without using the clutch as the loads on the gears approaches and passes zero.
Check the push rod on the pedal, you may be able to increase the travel of the master cylinder.
Where is the bite point on the pedal, I'm assuming near the floor.
Other option is too thick friction material. Which clutch have you got?
The low speed causes increased load on the gears.
e.g. if you accel then lift off you will find a point where you can knock out of gear without using the clutch as the loads on the gears approaches and passes zero.
Check the push rod on the pedal, you may be able to increase the travel of the master cylinder.
Where is the bite point on the pedal, I'm assuming near the floor.
Other option is too thick friction material. Which clutch have you got?
I'm nowhere near as technically minded as some of the other replies you have had, but your symptoms sound like those I used to have with my 4.2 Cerb. The gear change was quite stiff, but I found that it was sometimes a real heave to get into first. I took it to Russell at RaceProved (who are TVR transmission specialists and also do some aftermarket clutches) - as soon as he drive it he diagnosed it as the clutch dragging, i.e. not releasing properly as per other posts above. When he dismantled it, turns out that a previous owner had fitted a new clutch at some point. The car had done just under 21K when I bought it, at the time of Russell looking at it, it would have been approx 26K. Russell thinks that who-ever had fitted the clutch had doen something wrong, and (I can't quite remember exactly what he said) had broken something (fingers?) - anyway, new clutch was needed, and also a replacement flywheel as it had been badly scored. I took the oportunity to fit a RaceProved lighter flywheel whilst it was all apart
Sounds like even though you have had a new clutch fitted, there is the possibility that it hasn't been fitted correctly. Therefore I would start to think about how you want to handle this. Options could include first approaching the original garage to ask them to invetigate and fix, or alternately take your car to another reputable TVR specialist and ask them to first drive it, then if necessary inspect - however this means that you would then need to make a claim against the initial garage - it may be easier to get them to fix it in first place. Otherwise, it's the small claims courts.....
Sounds like even though you have had a new clutch fitted, there is the possibility that it hasn't been fitted correctly. Therefore I would start to think about how you want to handle this. Options could include first approaching the original garage to ask them to invetigate and fix, or alternately take your car to another reputable TVR specialist and ask them to first drive it, then if necessary inspect - however this means that you would then need to make a claim against the initial garage - it may be easier to get them to fix it in first place. Otherwise, it's the small claims courts.....
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