prop shaft greasing, diff filling & restart procedure
Discussion
Hi guys,
Mr Cerb has been on stilts for a little while, required some TLC. *HOPEFULLY* I should be putting it back together next weekend so a few questions. Any pointers appreciated
-I have the heatshield off above the exhaust tunnel (chassis maintenance check) - is it worth greasing the UJ's in the prop shaft, or do they tend to be fine as-is?
-Diff. Mines a bit weepy, so while in here thought I should maybe top it up. looks like a mare to get to the filling hole - any tips on how to get fluid in there? Can I just buy the right grade oil to top up, or should I drain first (rather not due to hassle & weeping oil is VERY clear so not dirty in there)
-Coolant. What do we use, can I get it from Halfords std. OAT (mine looks blue FWIW)???
-Restart. As I've not started the car for 6 weeks I'm concerned about getting oil pressure up etc. on the restart. Should I maybe just leave the HT leads off to spin it over a few times until pressure guage reads, or is this a retarded idea? Seems like it would stop it firing & prime pressure or am I being silly/missing something?
I sure hope I manage to get it back together sucessfully!
Thanks again peeps,
Stu
Mr Cerb has been on stilts for a little while, required some TLC. *HOPEFULLY* I should be putting it back together next weekend so a few questions. Any pointers appreciated
-I have the heatshield off above the exhaust tunnel (chassis maintenance check) - is it worth greasing the UJ's in the prop shaft, or do they tend to be fine as-is?
-Diff. Mines a bit weepy, so while in here thought I should maybe top it up. looks like a mare to get to the filling hole - any tips on how to get fluid in there? Can I just buy the right grade oil to top up, or should I drain first (rather not due to hassle & weeping oil is VERY clear so not dirty in there)
-Coolant. What do we use, can I get it from Halfords std. OAT (mine looks blue FWIW)???
-Restart. As I've not started the car for 6 weeks I'm concerned about getting oil pressure up etc. on the restart. Should I maybe just leave the HT leads off to spin it over a few times until pressure guage reads, or is this a retarded idea? Seems like it would stop it firing & prime pressure or am I being silly/missing something?
I sure hope I manage to get it back together sucessfully!
Thanks again peeps,
Stu
Edited by stuthemong on Sunday 15th November 23:16
uj's: if you've got everything off then grease it!
diff oil: not as hard as it looks, remove offside rear wheel for better access, you'll need a large ring spanner (27mm i think) to undo the fill plug, i found it was easiest to come up underneath to loosen the nut then you can undo it with your fingers via the wheel arch. i would drain old oil and replace with new, a couple of litres will do the job, if you buy 2 x 1 litre bottles you can squeeze it in as they come with a filling nozzle thingy.
diff oil: not as hard as it looks, remove offside rear wheel for better access, you'll need a large ring spanner (27mm i think) to undo the fill plug, i found it was easiest to come up underneath to loosen the nut then you can undo it with your fingers via the wheel arch. i would drain old oil and replace with new, a couple of litres will do the job, if you buy 2 x 1 litre bottles you can squeeze it in as they come with a filling nozzle thingy.
If you want to crank it without running to pump oil round then the easiest way is to pull the fuel pump relay (before you turn the ignition on). I don't know if it is strictly needed but it is not going to do any harm and I certainly did so when I had the cams out to adjust the follower shims.
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