Remove gearbox with manifolds in situ?
Discussion
Just in the process of doing my clutch change and noticed the gearbox weeping so ideally id like to remove it and refresh the seals etc.
The TVR service manuals seem to suggest that the box can be removed with the manifolds still attached by rotating the box upside down and then pulling them up and over the manifolds into a vertical position. Anyone tried or done this and is it possible? Id rather not have the ballache of having to remove the manifolds.
The TVR service manuals seem to suggest that the box can be removed with the manifolds still attached by rotating the box upside down and then pulling them up and over the manifolds into a vertical position. Anyone tried or done this and is it possible? Id rather not have the ballache of having to remove the manifolds.
I've done this job and as said before it's tight. You do have to roll the gearbox over and it is a bit limited with space. I did it with the car on 4 axle stands and used some large wooden wedges to keep the exhaust clear. Putting it back was a little more difficult because you have to hold the full weight of the gearbox and slide it into the bell housing. I made up a rope strop at the rear to help take the weight. I did it alone but an extra set of hands would have been helpful.
Good luck
Mike
Good luck
Mike
Mike Hawthorn said:
I've done this job and as said before it's tight. You do have to roll the gearbox over and it is a bit limited with space. I did it with the car on 4 axle stands and used some large wooden wedges to keep the exhaust clear. Putting it back was a little more difficult because you have to hold the full weight of the gearbox and slide it into the bell housing. I made up a rope strop at the rear to help take the weight. I did it alone but an extra set of hands would have been helpful.
Good luck
Mike
Mike, im a bit concerned about cracking the exhausts when pulling them apart, any advice?Good luck
Mike
Hi mate all I can say is I pulled them apart enough to get the box out. I learnt long ago always to expect the unexpected when working on the Cerb. I guess given the known cracking problems with the Cerb exhausts manifolds it may depend on the condition of your system. However the length of the pipe at the point where clearance is required does allow for some flex. given the extra work and risk of other damage in removing them I think the risk is well worth it.
Mike
Mike
Thanks for the help guys. Fron reading Mad Marks guide, didnt realise how much of a b@st*rd job pulling the box of was going to on the floor with just a trolley jack and no extra hands. An hour later of swearing cursing and many expletives its off and i have absolutely no idea how im gonna put the bleedin thing back in 
Right clutch is out. I noticed a pool of oil under the OSF outrigger overnight which seems to be reddish fluid (power steering?). Looking around near the car its dripped down to the sump from the pipe running to the power steering pump which i think has started when i was jacking the engine up/down. It seems to have stopped though, any ideas?
I'd remove the RH manifold beofer you try putting the box back in as its a d@mn sight easier with it off.
If you undo the engine mountings at the front you can raise the engine up enough to make it less onerous and you'll make this time up when you're trying to juggle the box back into place.
I'd also recommend replacing the clutch hydraulic seals while you're there as they're only O-rings and the standard items are Nitrile which doesn't last, replace with viton rubber and they'll last.
If you undo the engine mountings at the front you can raise the engine up enough to make it less onerous and you'll make this time up when you're trying to juggle the box back into place.
I'd also recommend replacing the clutch hydraulic seals while you're there as they're only O-rings and the standard items are Nitrile which doesn't last, replace with viton rubber and they'll last.
Hi
You don't want Nitrile you want Viton.
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/51/clutch-slave-...
Also the manifold bolts should come out OK but you'll need some decent silicone sealant to reseal the manifolds to the head and use some copaslip on the bolts
You don't want Nitrile you want Viton.
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/51/clutch-slave-...
Also the manifold bolts should come out OK but you'll need some decent silicone sealant to reseal the manifolds to the head and use some copaslip on the bolts
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff