Chassis question
Discussion
Generally the very early chassis are regarded as being the most resiloient to rust (96-97), after that TVR started doing their own powder coating 
and there have been some examples of terminal corrosion particularly on 98, 99 and some 2000 cars. It appears that after that they may have got their act together a bit on the late cars.
So... very early or very late are probably the best - though with everything TVR there are no real rules - just make sure that you look at each one carefully! You may well find an excellent 98 car and a rotten 96 one
and there have been some examples of terminal corrosion particularly on 98, 99 and some 2000 cars. It appears that after that they may have got their act together a bit on the late cars.So... very early or very late are probably the best - though with everything TVR there are no real rules - just make sure that you look at each one carefully! You may well find an excellent 98 car and a rotten 96 one
R44DOR said:
Any TVR 10 years old will need chassis work of some sort
Bit of a generalisation I fear... I've got my late 95/early 96 cerb stripped down completely atm and it's in fine fettle. The vast majority of the powder coating is intact, no work required other than cleaning and a few coats of POR-15.Admittedly the body is still on, so I can't see the top of the outriggers. However, the excellent condition of the rest of the chassis convinced me that I was wasting my time going any further.
Grey - I'm really amazed at how well it's stood up (to 57,000 miles!). Even the area alongside the exhaust manifolds is perfect where a lot of cars seem to really suffer in that area.
It's now (nearly all) black with some additional heat shielding and outrigger protection. Fingers crossed for another happy 14 years!
It's now (nearly all) black with some additional heat shielding and outrigger protection. Fingers crossed for another happy 14 years!
al 350i said:
is your chassis grey or white jim? (before the por15 
Late 97 here, its already had a fair bit of work, soon to be body-off rebuilt. I seem to say that every year, but this really is the final year we're leaving it - the Morris minor occupying the driveway is currently being strengthened to allow it to be moved to allow a place for the Cerb.
I seem to say that every year, but this really is the final year we're leaving it - the Morris minor occupying the driveway is currently being strengthened to allow it to be moved to allow a place for the Cerb.As I have experienced a crap chassis and wishbones on my 1998 car I am not a fan of powder coating I have had to change the chassis and wishbones and have gone the Lotus route of having them galvanised.My Lotus Esprit Turbo 29 years old no rust(Problem solved). I will at some stage however time permitting make good original chassis and have that galvanised. Unfortunately Cerberas get very hot then cold over when layed up and I would think that the chassis sweat from the inside also once the powder coating gets chipped the rust will spread like a fire . 
All the talk of chassis rot and what years are the best ones,brings me to the fact that i have seen quite a few Cerberas and many other TVR,s for that matter that have never been treated with a coat of waxoil.
I inspect the chassis on mine on a regular basis. Especially around the front and rear wheel arches.Any signs of damage to the waxoil coat then its a wire brush back and treated with waxoil.
I use a shutz gun which air is fed from a large compressor. So plenty of power to blast over the top of the rails that run along the body.
I inspect the chassis on mine on a regular basis. Especially around the front and rear wheel arches.Any signs of damage to the waxoil coat then its a wire brush back and treated with waxoil.
I use a shutz gun which air is fed from a large compressor. So plenty of power to blast over the top of the rails that run along the body.
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