Clutch bolts
Clutch bolts
Author
Discussion

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

314 months

Monday 18th January 2010
quotequote all
Hi all

Can anyone confirm the length of the clutch bolts and the thickness of the spring washers?

I have just torqued up my first bolt to 25lb ft and it stripped a couple of threads out of the flywheel cry. It basically hadn't gone into the thread far enough to take the torque.

I make the measurements the following:

depth of clutch pack - 52.25mm
washer thickness - 2.00mm
depth of hole in flywheel - 12.25mm
--------
Total available length for bolt - 66.50mm

Actual bolt length on my car - 60.00mm

Perhaps my car has the wrong bolts?

Any info gratefully received.

Ed

itiejim

1,822 posts

235 months

Monday 18th January 2010
quotequote all
Ed, I've got my clutch pack off atm but it's away being balanced with the crank / rods / pistons etc. I hope to have it all back by Wednesday and can measure it up then for you if you can't get an answer before.

sk7ine man

604 posts

221 months

Monday 18th January 2010
quotequote all
Ed, apologies for not getting back to with regards to my tapered bolts. I obtained them from raceproved with the clutch plates, diaphram etc. Im not sure if they sell them seperately but ask Keith @ Clever Trevor.

Just a thought that you may have installed the clutch incorrectly in terms of orientation of the plates etc as its critical in its operation and hence overall thickness/clamp load. WIth the clutch pack assmebled correctly, you should be able to get a couple of turns on the clutch bolts enough to engage before any kind if resistance.

May be an idea to post a few pics of the clutch and should be able to suss if its correct or not.

Have you bought a new clutch or had yours relined?

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

314 months

Monday 18th January 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply.

I spoke to Raceproved today who advised me to grind a chamfer into the head of my bolts which I duly did. This is apparently what they do to the bolts they supply but on a fancy grinder to ensure uniformity.

I removed the clutch to repair a couple of the threads that the bellhousing attaches to. I haven't taken the clutch apart at all. It's possible the friction plate closest to the flywheel may have rotated slightly. Does this make a difference?

I had to use hand pressure to squash the \_/ springs against the flywheel to engage the bolts.

I will probably get some 65mm bolts which I reckon will be closer to the maximum size than mine are at the moment. Perhaps my washers are too thick?

It's becoming a right PITA rolleyes

Ed

sk7ine man

604 posts

221 months

Monday 18th January 2010
quotequote all
The friction plate moving isnt a problem, just need to get the splines lined up before pushing the box back on. Sounds about right if your using hand pressure to engage the bolts. Have you tried CT, Racing Green, TVR Power for the tapered bolts?

maybe search the net: http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners?output_frontp...

Jackal83

178 posts

204 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
for a bolt to take up the right amount of tourque it should be 1 and a half times the dimater of the bolt in the hole... so if you had an M10 bolt is should screw into a hole that has 15mm of thread deep.

julian64

14,325 posts

284 months

Wednesday 20th January 2010
quotequote all
Theres no finesse to the chamfer on the clutch bolts. Its to stop them hitting the bell housing. In some cars they seem to hit until to chamfer them down very low and in some you can have the full bolt there with no problems.