Adaptive help (and part throttle fault!!)
Discussion
I've got an issue with the Cerb (4.5) wanting to 'die' on part throttle but runs fine and pulls strong once the car gets revving.
My first thoughts were faulty Coil or Lambda sensor. So I plugged the laptop in to take a look.
As far as I can tell the Lambdas are working fine switching on and off regularly. The throttles also look good and quite even. But the Adaptives are way off balance!!
What could cause this? could it be a faulty coil?
Also on the faults page it showed a fault on the AFR 2468 side I reset this and it came back but after another reset both AFR's showed a fault (then the battery died on my laptop! doh!!)
It is also running a little on the high side but this might just be due to it only left to warm up on idle.
Any ideas?
My first thoughts were faulty Coil or Lambda sensor. So I plugged the laptop in to take a look.
As far as I can tell the Lambdas are working fine switching on and off regularly. The throttles also look good and quite even. But the Adaptives are way off balance!!
What could cause this? could it be a faulty coil?
Also on the faults page it showed a fault on the AFR 2468 side I reset this and it came back but after another reset both AFR's showed a fault (then the battery died on my laptop! doh!!)
It is also running a little on the high side but this might just be due to it only left to warm up on idle.
Any ideas?
From the software help file
AFR fault can be caused by:
1. Misfire due to ignition fault (check HT leads are correctly fitted to all spark plugs and coil connectors, and that spark plugs are in good condition)
2. Broken or shorting injector wiring (check using injector wiring tester)
3. Excessive fuel pressure ( > 58 psi )
4. Air leaks in exhaust or inlet manifold.
5. Liquid fuel in purge system (check that the fuel tank breather pipe is higher than the filler cap, and that the carbon can is empty of liquid fuel)
6. Excessive purging due to overheating fuel (check fuel pipe routing for heat pickup, insulate or reroute as required)
7. Incorrectly adjusted or faulty throttle potentiometers (check readings)
8. Faulty lambda sensors, or lambda sensor wiring.
AFR fault can be caused by:
1. Misfire due to ignition fault (check HT leads are correctly fitted to all spark plugs and coil connectors, and that spark plugs are in good condition)
2. Broken or shorting injector wiring (check using injector wiring tester)
3. Excessive fuel pressure ( > 58 psi )
4. Air leaks in exhaust or inlet manifold.
5. Liquid fuel in purge system (check that the fuel tank breather pipe is higher than the filler cap, and that the carbon can is empty of liquid fuel)
6. Excessive purging due to overheating fuel (check fuel pipe routing for heat pickup, insulate or reroute as required)
7. Incorrectly adjusted or faulty throttle potentiometers (check readings)
8. Faulty lambda sensors, or lambda sensor wiring.
Just reset the adaptives and let it idle for a few moments while it settled itself. During this period I noticed it smoking a out of one exhausts.
I went to take it for a drive but didn't bother as just getting the car off the drive I needed to get the revs above 2500 to be able to go anywhere. Also the adaptives had gone straight back out of balance as before.
I'm still thinking its a coil but before ripping it all apart want some of your thoughts.
I went to take it for a drive but didn't bother as just getting the car off the drive I needed to get the revs above 2500 to be able to go anywhere. Also the adaptives had gone straight back out of balance as before.
I'm still thinking its a coil but before ripping it all apart want some of your thoughts.
I was checking my T.Pots today using a digimeter and found that one of them, the near side one, did seem to show a bit of an uneven climb with a bit of a 'spike' around the part throttle position. Whether this would be enough to cause the car to want to 'die' on part throttle I have no idea.
But I think a new pot wouldn't go amiss.
Anybody know the best place to pick one of these up from? TVRPower have them on their website for £47
But I think a new pot wouldn't go amiss.
Anybody know the best place to pick one of these up from? TVRPower have them on their website for £47
Mad Mark said:
I was checking my T.Pots today using a digimeter and found that one of them, the near side one, did seem to show a bit of an uneven climb with a bit of a 'spike' around the part throttle position. Whether this would be enough to cause the car to want to 'die' on part throttle I have no idea.
But I think a new pot wouldn't go amiss.
Anybody know the best place to pick one of these up from? TVRPower have them on their website for £47
I've got a spare you could try mate.But I think a new pot wouldn't go amiss.
Anybody know the best place to pick one of these up from? TVRPower have them on their website for £47
Still at Ford?
Neill 
I noticed that last night Jensen. Is it possible to actually drive it like that just to test it out do you know?
Interesting Rids and annoyingly so... thats the side that seems to show up the AFR fault and has the high Adaptives but is not the pot that shows a bit of a spike when I checked it on my meter. Unless I am reading things back to front and getting my pot 1's and 2's left back and right banks mixed up!!
Is near side pot one?
Interesting Rids and annoyingly so... thats the side that seems to show up the AFR fault and has the high Adaptives but is not the pot that shows a bit of a spike when I checked it on my meter. Unless I am reading things back to front and getting my pot 1's and 2's left back and right banks mixed up!!
Is near side pot one?
Mad Mark said:
I noticed that last night Jensen. Is it possible to actually drive it like that just to test it out do you know?
Yes it should be, I can't see why not. but try disconecting each one with the car just ticking over and see if you get an obvious result, if not take it for a quick drive and see what happens. Mark,
A multimeter won't really show what a tpot is doing dynamically.
The only way to tell whether it's working A-OK would be with an oscilloscope..... or just using the ECU to show you the trace as we all do When they go a bit mental they momentarily produce wrong resistance, a voltmeter will just smooth a response so you wouldn't necessarily be able to see it - or if you could it would be so far gone the car would be having hissy fits.
Look at the traces on the laptop to see if either of them flicker, and if you hit the "PAge down" button you'll see other screens. One just makes both Tot readings big (so you can read laptop when you have head under bonnet) but the last one is something like fault codes. In there have a look at the "DThrottle" box. If that ever shows up "no control" then it means one of you tpots are doing something crazy that fluctuates quickly enough to confuse the ECU => crazyness.
HTH
FWIW I also have lambda trace envy. I wish my traces looked like yours
Stu
A multimeter won't really show what a tpot is doing dynamically.
The only way to tell whether it's working A-OK would be with an oscilloscope..... or just using the ECU to show you the trace as we all do
When they go a bit mental they momentarily produce wrong resistance, a voltmeter will just smooth a response so you wouldn't necessarily be able to see it - or if you could it would be so far gone the car would be having hissy fits.Look at the traces on the laptop to see if either of them flicker, and if you hit the "PAge down" button you'll see other screens. One just makes both Tot readings big (so you can read laptop when you have head under bonnet) but the last one is something like fault codes. In there have a look at the "DThrottle" box. If that ever shows up "no control" then it means one of you tpots are doing something crazy that fluctuates quickly enough to confuse the ECU => crazyness.
HTH
FWIW I also have lambda trace envy. I wish my traces looked like yours
Stu
Edited by stuthemong on Tuesday 26th January 19:23
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