Help. Lambda sensor sillyness on restart
Discussion
Hi All, another weekend, another 'help' thread from stuthemong......
Finally managed to get it in a state to restart today, alas more problems rear their head!
Background:
Fitted new ACT manifolds & SP exhaust. Should flow better now/
Problem:
-I managed to start it up ok, and it sounds to idle ok ish but adaptives went to >30. Lamdas stayed pretty much on 0.0 volts constantly
-I thought given all the exhaust changes I should reset adaptives and try again.
-I've let it idle for about 60seconds or so and caved in and shutdown as I don't want to damage anything by letting it run lean as it's clearly not running closed loop to my eye.......... Although given ive not touched tpots/idlescrew/crosslink I'd be surprised if I was massively out of tune, it was fine before
-After resetting adaptives I have started to see some sort of behaviour from the lambdas. They have basically, over the course a minute climbed from 0.0 volts to about 0.55volts linearly. They have literally increased by about 0.01v/second. Just gently climbing. They are not bouncing from 0 volts to 1.1 volt as I would expect. Just sat at 0.56v (and climbing) and 0.52V (and climbing) when I decided to shutdown.
Adaptives had now started moving too, and were at -3% and -7.5%. Before change the adaptives were all +ve.
Is this sensible behaviour when relearning what adaptives there should be? If I let it idle for longer may it suddenly sort itself out, or is something wrong?
TIA.
Stu
Finally managed to get it in a state to restart today, alas more problems rear their head!
Background:
Fitted new ACT manifolds & SP exhaust. Should flow better now/
Problem:
-I managed to start it up ok, and it sounds to idle ok ish but adaptives went to >30. Lamdas stayed pretty much on 0.0 volts constantly
-I thought given all the exhaust changes I should reset adaptives and try again.
-I've let it idle for about 60seconds or so and caved in and shutdown as I don't want to damage anything by letting it run lean as it's clearly not running closed loop to my eye.......... Although given ive not touched tpots/idlescrew/crosslink I'd be surprised if I was massively out of tune, it was fine before
-After resetting adaptives I have started to see some sort of behaviour from the lambdas. They have basically, over the course a minute climbed from 0.0 volts to about 0.55volts linearly. They have literally increased by about 0.01v/second. Just gently climbing. They are not bouncing from 0 volts to 1.1 volt as I would expect. Just sat at 0.56v (and climbing) and 0.52V (and climbing) when I decided to shutdown.
Adaptives had now started moving too, and were at -3% and -7.5%. Before change the adaptives were all +ve.
Is this sensible behaviour when relearning what adaptives there should be? If I let it idle for longer may it suddenly sort itself out, or is something wrong?
TIA.
Stu
Edited by stuthemong on Sunday 24th January 16:14
Thanks, as I suspected.
One thing I never really got to the bottom of is where the connections for the sensors are. I understand behind the engine someone - but I haven't located them - just unbolted them and left them wired in. I guess checking the connectors would be sensible, but I literally can't find them - any pointers?
Thanks
One thing I never really got to the bottom of is where the connections for the sensors are. I understand behind the engine someone - but I haven't located them - just unbolted them and left them wired in. I guess checking the connectors would be sensible, but I literally can't find them - any pointers?
Thanks
Stu, the connectors for the lambda sensors are above the exhausts / on top of the gearbox. There should be enough cable for you to pull them down and connect / disconnect them with under the car.
Once you've reset the adaptives you are right, the ECU needs to relearn. However, to do this it needs to see a variety of throttle positions / load. I seem to remember that the system is only running closed loop at smaller throttle openings, under 3000 rpm or something like that. Basically, so long as your basic map is fine, the adaptives make no difference whatsoever at higher load / rpm. Therefore there should be no issues with running lean etc under those circumstances.
I'm afraid I can't help with the lambda issues, but it does seem odd that, if it was OK before it isn't now
Keep the faith
Once you've reset the adaptives you are right, the ECU needs to relearn. However, to do this it needs to see a variety of throttle positions / load. I seem to remember that the system is only running closed loop at smaller throttle openings, under 3000 rpm or something like that. Basically, so long as your basic map is fine, the adaptives make no difference whatsoever at higher load / rpm. Therefore there should be no issues with running lean etc under those circumstances.
I'm afraid I can't help with the lambda issues, but it does seem odd that, if it was OK before it isn't now
Keep the faith
Well it's a bit like fooking Sophie's choice this.
I've only really run the engine for about 2 minutes and it seems happy enough, just obviously not right in diag software (no MIL's etc.).
However, I also filled it with 5L water, 7L antifreee, and topped up with water. Didn't pre-mix.
It will be -1 monday, tues, thursday.
I'd really like to ensure the new antifreeze is distributed properly around the engine / mixed well. I've not opened up the heater box (forgot) and havent got water hot enough to trip stat.
Do I
a) let it idle for a few mins, heater max, keep an eye lamdas etc. see if they come good. Let it get hot enough to open stat.
b) leave it be and do more work next weekend, but hope that none of the water is poorly mixed and freezes in the pipes.
I've only really run the engine for about 2 minutes and it seems happy enough, just obviously not right in diag software (no MIL's etc.).
However, I also filled it with 5L water, 7L antifreee, and topped up with water. Didn't pre-mix.
It will be -1 monday, tues, thursday.
I'd really like to ensure the new antifreeze is distributed properly around the engine / mixed well. I've not opened up the heater box (forgot) and havent got water hot enough to trip stat.
Do I
a) let it idle for a few mins, heater max, keep an eye lamdas etc. see if they come good. Let it get hot enough to open stat.
b) leave it be and do more work next weekend, but hope that none of the water is poorly mixed and freezes in the pipes.
Edited by stuthemong on Sunday 24th January 17:01
Edited by stuthemong on Sunday 24th January 17:01
OK, it's on your head 
I'll re-reset the map. So long as it doesn't go off either extreme, I cant imagine anything massively untoward happening.
From looking at the ECU software it does say lamdas can take 30 seconds to warm up.
Elsehwere on the net I've also seen references to silicon really annoying lamda sensors. Given the manifolds use silicone sealant throughout, the outgassing from the heat may also be confusing things. 1/2 of me things to just get it up to temp and it will be fine, and the more I think about what is going on, the more convinced I am that the engine must be in a sensible state of tune - therefore no serious damage to occur!
In other news the dThrottle was momentarily showing 'no control' - beleive it or not, this is good news, as I now know that a new throttle pot will probably cure the stutter I had before I decided to break the car myself
I'll re-reset the map. So long as it doesn't go off either extreme, I cant imagine anything massively untoward happening.
From looking at the ECU software it does say lamdas can take 30 seconds to warm up.
Elsehwere on the net I've also seen references to silicon really annoying lamda sensors. Given the manifolds use silicone sealant throughout, the outgassing from the heat may also be confusing things. 1/2 of me things to just get it up to temp and it will be fine, and the more I think about what is going on, the more convinced I am that the engine must be in a sensible state of tune - therefore no serious damage to occur!
In other news the dThrottle was momentarily showing 'no control' - beleive it or not, this is good news, as I now know that a new throttle pot will probably cure the stutter I had before I decided to break the car myself
stuthemong said:
I'll re-reset the map.
You're not actually resetting the map, just the variation to that map that the ECU has "learnt" from the various inputs it receieves. It's for that reason that I say that, even if the adaptives are miles off, it might run like a sack of s
t but it's unlikely to be so far out as to cause damage.Sorry itejim, of course you are correct, resetting adaptives is what I meant. It's just that they were meandering where I didn't expect them to.
My concern was that adaptives can only move -+30% then they hit limits. Also, pre my fettling the adaptives were always pretty +ve (say +10 to +20). When I saw the engine start trying to lean the mixture out (I saw -15% adaptive) I thought "I don't like the sound of this". Maybe I was being a girl and that even at both extremes of adaptive settings (assuming feedback was bollaxs) the engine is still safe - I just don't really know how an erroneous -30% (is when it should be +10%) translates into "the engine is to lean it will lunch itself" sort of thing.... Maybe this is all such fine tuning that no harm can come
However, I did as we said and went outside for a longer tickover and things are moving in the right way, albeit not perfect yet!
It certainly seems that the new "settled" adaptive level is in the -10% range - which is ideal actually, maybe if anything its a little too -ve 15->-5%, but its in a sensible area. The lamda sensors have started to wake up bit more. Lamda1 is much better than lamda2, I think 2 is getting a little lazy now, maybe time to replace that.
To be honest, I think that manifold cracks were the cause of this curfuffle. I think cracks were letting whisps of air into the exhaust system. Lamdas detected this as a slightly lean burn an enriched mixture slightly. I think the car has been running rich for quite a while (it's always smelt quite rich). New exhaust, proper sealing= new running position quite a bit away from the old one - the lamda sensors were just bottoming out. Now they have started to learn about the new position I get fluctuation as expected, although lamda2 only moves from 0.2 to 0.7V odd, it's not pinging from 0 to 1.2 like I'd hope..... maybe a bit of a run may help burn off any contaminants which are making it angry?
At any rate things seem to be more as expected now - I may replace lamda 2, and will replace TPot1, and hopefully we will be most the way to jackanory then!
Coolant well mixed now, rebled a bit more, and will do more next time I fire it up. For now at least I'm confident it will see out this cold snap
SOOOOOOOO tempted to take it out for a quick spin, but its raining like buggery here and I'd like to try to get to the bottom of this lamda thing properly!
My concern was that adaptives can only move -+30% then they hit limits. Also, pre my fettling the adaptives were always pretty +ve (say +10 to +20). When I saw the engine start trying to lean the mixture out (I saw -15% adaptive) I thought "I don't like the sound of this". Maybe I was being a girl and that even at both extremes of adaptive settings (assuming feedback was bollaxs) the engine is still safe - I just don't really know how an erroneous -30% (is when it should be +10%) translates into "the engine is to lean it will lunch itself" sort of thing.... Maybe this is all such fine tuning that no harm can come
However, I did as we said and went outside for a longer tickover and things are moving in the right way, albeit not perfect yet!
It certainly seems that the new "settled" adaptive level is in the -10% range - which is ideal actually, maybe if anything its a little too -ve 15->-5%, but its in a sensible area. The lamda sensors have started to wake up bit more. Lamda1 is much better than lamda2, I think 2 is getting a little lazy now, maybe time to replace that.
To be honest, I think that manifold cracks were the cause of this curfuffle. I think cracks were letting whisps of air into the exhaust system. Lamdas detected this as a slightly lean burn an enriched mixture slightly. I think the car has been running rich for quite a while (it's always smelt quite rich). New exhaust, proper sealing= new running position quite a bit away from the old one - the lamda sensors were just bottoming out. Now they have started to learn about the new position I get fluctuation as expected, although lamda2 only moves from 0.2 to 0.7V odd, it's not pinging from 0 to 1.2 like I'd hope..... maybe a bit of a run may help burn off any contaminants which are making it angry?
At any rate things seem to be more as expected now - I may replace lamda 2, and will replace TPot1, and hopefully we will be most the way to jackanory then!
Coolant well mixed now, rebled a bit more, and will do more next time I fire it up. For now at least I'm confident it will see out this cold snap
SOOOOOOOO tempted to take it out for a quick spin, but its raining like buggery here and I'd like to try to get to the bottom of this lamda thing properly!
stuthemong said:
Sorry itejim, of course you are correct, resetting adaptives is what I meant. It's just that they were meandering where I didn't expect them to.
My concern was that adaptives can only move -+30% then they hit limits. Also, pre my fettling the adaptives were always pretty +ve (say +10 to +20). When I saw the engine start trying to lean the mixture out (I saw -15% adaptive) I thought "I don't like the sound of this". Maybe I was being a girl and that even at both extremes of adaptive settings (assuming feedback was bollaxs) the engine is still safe - I just don't really know how an erroneous -30% (is when it should be +10%) translates into "the engine is to lean it will lunch itself" sort of thing.... Maybe this is all such fine tuning that no harm can come
However, I did as we said and went outside for a longer tickover and things are moving in the right way, albeit not perfect yet!
It certainly seems that the new "settled" adaptive level is in the -10% range - which is ideal actually, maybe if anything its a little too -ve 15->-5%, but its in a sensible area. The lamda sensors have started to wake up bit more. Lamda1 is much better than lamda2, I think 2 is getting a little lazy now, maybe time to replace that.
To be honest, I think that manifold cracks were the cause of this curfuffle. I think cracks were letting whisps of air into the exhaust system. Lamdas detected this as a slightly lean burn an enriched mixture slightly. I think the car has been running rich for quite a while (it's always smelt quite rich). New exhaust, proper sealing= new running position quite a bit away from the old one - the lamda sensors were just bottoming out. Now they have started to learn about the new position I get fluctuation as expected, although lamda2 only moves from 0.2 to 0.7V odd, it's not pinging from 0 to 1.2 like I'd hope..... maybe a bit of a run may help burn off any contaminants which are making it angry?
At any rate things seem to be more as expected now - I may replace lamda 2, and will replace TPot1, and hopefully we will be most the way to jackanory then!
Coolant well mixed now, rebled a bit more, and will do more next time I fire it up. For now at least I'm confident it will see out this cold snap
SOOOOOOOO tempted to take it out for a quick spin, but its raining like buggery here and I'd like to try to get to the bottom of this lamda thing properly!
Might it be worth taking the lambdas out and blowtorching the ends?My concern was that adaptives can only move -+30% then they hit limits. Also, pre my fettling the adaptives were always pretty +ve (say +10 to +20). When I saw the engine start trying to lean the mixture out (I saw -15% adaptive) I thought "I don't like the sound of this". Maybe I was being a girl and that even at both extremes of adaptive settings (assuming feedback was bollaxs) the engine is still safe - I just don't really know how an erroneous -30% (is when it should be +10%) translates into "the engine is to lean it will lunch itself" sort of thing.... Maybe this is all such fine tuning that no harm can come
However, I did as we said and went outside for a longer tickover and things are moving in the right way, albeit not perfect yet!
It certainly seems that the new "settled" adaptive level is in the -10% range - which is ideal actually, maybe if anything its a little too -ve 15->-5%, but its in a sensible area. The lamda sensors have started to wake up bit more. Lamda1 is much better than lamda2, I think 2 is getting a little lazy now, maybe time to replace that.
To be honest, I think that manifold cracks were the cause of this curfuffle. I think cracks were letting whisps of air into the exhaust system. Lamdas detected this as a slightly lean burn an enriched mixture slightly. I think the car has been running rich for quite a while (it's always smelt quite rich). New exhaust, proper sealing= new running position quite a bit away from the old one - the lamda sensors were just bottoming out. Now they have started to learn about the new position I get fluctuation as expected, although lamda2 only moves from 0.2 to 0.7V odd, it's not pinging from 0 to 1.2 like I'd hope..... maybe a bit of a run may help burn off any contaminants which are making it angry?
At any rate things seem to be more as expected now - I may replace lamda 2, and will replace TPot1, and hopefully we will be most the way to jackanory then!
Coolant well mixed now, rebled a bit more, and will do more next time I fire it up. For now at least I'm confident it will see out this cold snap
SOOOOOOOO tempted to take it out for a quick spin, but its raining like buggery here and I'd like to try to get to the bottom of this lamda thing properly!
I must admit that that is certainly a possibility. The only thing is I can only work on the car at weekends, and if I try that and am unsuccessful, it will be another week until I get parts....
I may talk to the suppliers and see if they can supply a couple SoR (less restocking) so I can get the car in the air, blowtorch em, retry it. If it solves it, great, return new lambdas unopened. If not, fit the new ones.
Here is a supplier at £70 delivered.
http://www.gendan.co.uk/oxygen_lambda_sensors_TVR_...
Racetech is 80+VAT+DEL and Racinggreen 130 odd. TVR power £100+DEL.
Anyone else know a good place to buy a sensor from? I understand they are a Landrover part so hopefully a few cheap ones kicking about.....
As a side, racetech have the TPots for a very fair price, I'll defo bag one from them (£30) unless anyone knows of any significantly cheaper!
Getting close......
I may talk to the suppliers and see if they can supply a couple SoR (less restocking) so I can get the car in the air, blowtorch em, retry it. If it solves it, great, return new lambdas unopened. If not, fit the new ones.
Here is a supplier at £70 delivered.
http://www.gendan.co.uk/oxygen_lambda_sensors_TVR_...
Racetech is 80+VAT+DEL and Racinggreen 130 odd. TVR power £100+DEL.
Anyone else know a good place to buy a sensor from? I understand they are a Landrover part so hopefully a few cheap ones kicking about.....
As a side, racetech have the TPots for a very fair price, I'll defo bag one from them (£30) unless anyone knows of any significantly cheaper!
Getting close......
Yep thought that too.
Stu, I'd get the car good and hot, bed it all in, then re check adaptives. Drive it though
don't just let it stand. You've ballanced the throttle bodies as the online guide?
Don't get too hung up on looking for the adaptives to be zero untill you've driven it,
the whole lot expands slightly when warm anyway, you will probably dial most of it into
spec with the ballance bar anyway and readjusting the pots. As long as the adaptives are not maxing out
you won't do any harm.
Stu, I'd get the car good and hot, bed it all in, then re check adaptives. Drive it though
don't just let it stand. You've ballanced the throttle bodies as the online guide?
Don't get too hung up on looking for the adaptives to be zero untill you've driven it,
the whole lot expands slightly when warm anyway, you will probably dial most of it into
spec with the ballance bar anyway and readjusting the pots. As long as the adaptives are not maxing out
you won't do any harm.
Nick,
I've not balanced the banks or anything, I've not touched them at all. TPots, linkage bar, stop etc. all untouched during my fettling - so it should all be pretty close.
I'm not so fussed about adaptives being 0, but being different to what they were before, with no change up top! The lamda feedback was clearly not as it was meant to be to my eye - especially on first start. They have gotten better, but are still far from perfect 0 -1.2V switching. I see a lot of wiggle in the middle & quite slow response (>1sec fluctuation)
I agree with you now though, so long as the adaptives aren't maxing out then that's the main thing. The lamdas do seem to work, just badly. You can see by eye when they are returning lean/rich, but they aren't making the ECU's job easy as they are so slow.
Fatjon, They are definintely on the correct sides - I was worried to begin with when they went >30% but after a reset and more running they are doing what is supposed of them, just badly.
THEN THE CRUX.
Apparently silicon KILLS lambda sensors. I've seen this a few places but didn't really worry about it. I just ordered 2 new lambdas from the link above as mine are 50K miles old now anyway and probably wanted replacing anyway.
The problem is this. Exhaust manifold -> head & all the ACT join sections are reassembled with the correct engine building sealant.
http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/black-silicon...
which is silicon based. Talking to the Lambda guy he said that any silicon gasket in the exhaust side will kill lambdas very quickly indeed.
I suspect that is what has happened to mine - old sensors + lots of new sealant = unhappy sensors (+ all of the 'worry' aligned with the fact the car now wants to run in a different regime due to exhaust leak before AFAIK).
So what I don't want to do is fit new sensors and b*gger them up to. I think that a few more runs with it as is (after sorting TPot) to get some heat into it all to help it cure are sensible before fitting the new sensors.
How on earth do you resolve the incompatibility though? All AJP's need sealing to the head with silicon - and this will fook the sensors... what can you do to stop it?????
I've not balanced the banks or anything, I've not touched them at all. TPots, linkage bar, stop etc. all untouched during my fettling - so it should all be pretty close.
I'm not so fussed about adaptives being 0, but being different to what they were before, with no change up top! The lamda feedback was clearly not as it was meant to be to my eye - especially on first start. They have gotten better, but are still far from perfect 0 -1.2V switching. I see a lot of wiggle in the middle & quite slow response (>1sec fluctuation)
I agree with you now though, so long as the adaptives aren't maxing out then that's the main thing. The lamdas do seem to work, just badly. You can see by eye when they are returning lean/rich, but they aren't making the ECU's job easy as they are so slow.
Fatjon, They are definintely on the correct sides
- I was worried to begin with when they went >30% but after a reset and more running they are doing what is supposed of them, just badly.THEN THE CRUX.
Apparently silicon KILLS lambda sensors. I've seen this a few places but didn't really worry about it. I just ordered 2 new lambdas from the link above as mine are 50K miles old now anyway and probably wanted replacing anyway.
The problem is this. Exhaust manifold -> head & all the ACT join sections are reassembled with the correct engine building sealant.
http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/black-silicon...
which is silicon based. Talking to the Lambda guy he said that any silicon gasket in the exhaust side will kill lambdas very quickly indeed.
I suspect that is what has happened to mine - old sensors + lots of new sealant = unhappy sensors (+ all of the 'worry' aligned with the fact the car now wants to run in a different regime due to exhaust leak before AFAIK).
So what I don't want to do is fit new sensors and b*gger them up to. I think that a few more runs with it as is (after sorting TPot) to get some heat into it all to help it cure are sensible before fitting the new sensors.
How on earth do you resolve the incompatibility though? All AJP's need sealing to the head with silicon - and this will fook the sensors... what can you do to stop it?????
Wooo hooooooo.
I'm soooo close to having a healthy happy cerb now I feel the need to share my excitement with you all
Yesterday/overnight I managed to take it on a little spin to try and see if some heat would fire the old lambdas into life. No. Managed to get some new petrol in & sort tyre pressures at the local station, but on studying lambdas on return they were still very lazy and adaptives were not really as desired (e.g.1250rpm = -15%@ 2% throttle and +10% @ 3% throttle). Car also wanted to stall despite having quite a high idle of 1200 rpm and was pretty juddery - difficult to drive and obviously not happy.
Today I surpassed my expectations : 2.5 hours to 4 point jack up, remove undertray, remove decat, remove lambdas, replace the lot. Plus replace Throttle pot 2 which was giving me DThrottle faults on running (fine when engine off) - I didn't think replacing the TPot was going to help, thought it was more likely worn bushing on the inlet manifolds but thought I may as well try......
ANYWAY. For the first time since I have owned the car I have acheived a 'proper' ignition trace. Wooooo.
Rock solid ignition, Tpots, Injector etc.. and lovely bouncing lambdas as the ECU is beginning to learn what is what. Now that the spiky ignition is solved it should make adaptive learning a much easier task for the car, as before the ignition spikes I saw were in response to an assumed prod of throttle every second or so (Tpot signal spike) which didn't really exist - so it would have just confused the hell out of ECU.
I have a couple more things that I need to sort out, a few fitment issues of the new exhaust/trans tunnel cover thing where they are making a bit of a din with vibration, but I finally feel that it is getting there. The drive this evening after sorting the lambdas and spiky tpot was much much nicer. The engine wants to rev, and wants to instantly each & every time I prod.
The car feels absolutely rock solid on the road now though. Maybe I've just got used to my soft Audi, but the primary ride seems off. To be honest I think that the suspension is maybe stiffer in the cold so I'll take a couple clicks of the adjustables and I hope the car will ride bumps a bit better - there are certainly a few on these damn cut up roads around here...
The big question is whether to risk taking it into work tomorrow or not. I'm 50/50 - maybe I shouldn't push my luck
Anyway. Woooooooooooooo. dinner time too, happy days...... er sorry about the rambling essay too, but I think some of you may like to hear the news / tribulations
I'm soooo close to having a healthy happy cerb now I feel the need to share my excitement with you all
Yesterday/overnight I managed to take it on a little spin to try and see if some heat would fire the old lambdas into life. No. Managed to get some new petrol in & sort tyre pressures at the local station, but on studying lambdas on return they were still very lazy and adaptives were not really as desired (e.g.1250rpm = -15%@ 2% throttle and +10% @ 3% throttle). Car also wanted to stall despite having quite a high idle of 1200 rpm and was pretty juddery - difficult to drive and obviously not happy.
Today I surpassed my expectations
: 2.5 hours to 4 point jack up, remove undertray, remove decat, remove lambdas, replace the lot. Plus replace Throttle pot 2 which was giving me DThrottle faults on running (fine when engine off) - I didn't think replacing the TPot was going to help, thought it was more likely worn bushing on the inlet manifolds but thought I may as well try......ANYWAY. For the first time since I have owned the car I have acheived a 'proper' ignition trace. Wooooo.
Rock solid ignition, Tpots, Injector etc.. and lovely bouncing lambdas as the ECU is beginning to learn what is what. Now that the spiky ignition is solved it should make adaptive learning a much easier task for the car, as before the ignition spikes I saw were in response to an assumed prod of throttle every second or so (Tpot signal spike) which didn't really exist - so it would have just confused the hell out of ECU.
I have a couple more things that I need to sort out, a few fitment issues of the new exhaust/trans tunnel cover thing where they are making a bit of a din with vibration, but I finally feel that it is getting there. The drive this evening after sorting the lambdas and spiky tpot was much much nicer. The engine wants to rev, and wants to instantly each & every time I prod.
The car feels absolutely rock solid on the road now though. Maybe I've just got used to my soft Audi, but the primary ride seems off. To be honest I think that the suspension is maybe stiffer in the cold so I'll take a couple clicks of the adjustables and I hope the car will ride bumps a bit better - there are certainly a few on these damn cut up roads around here...
The big question is whether to risk taking it into work tomorrow or not. I'm 50/50 - maybe I shouldn't push my luck
Anyway. Woooooooooooooo. dinner time too, happy days...... er sorry about the rambling essay too, but I think some of you may like to hear the news / tribulations
Stu, ref silicone sealant and the lambda sensors, I have always used this stuff and have had no problems at all;
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automo...
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automo...
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