Temp's gone crazeeeee !
Discussion
Hi Yáll,
firtly, weather is improving so hope yoy all have a great Cerb. weekend
:beggingmode:
Just come back from dropping Mrs.CerberA in town. When we were in the cntre, the comment "Have you put the heater on yet ?" made me realise that, although it was on, it was blowing cold air. Quick check of the Temp Guage and heart attack as I saw the guage actually moving
Spent the next 15 mins yo-yoing between 90 and 105 degrees in 20 second cycles. Everything returned to nornmal when we returned to the motorway (including the heater temp).
Any experiences similar to this ???
Thanks for any help.
Off to give the engine bay a thorough coat of looking at
:/beggingmode:
firtly, weather is improving so hope yoy all have a great Cerb. weekend
:beggingmode:
Just come back from dropping Mrs.CerberA in town. When we were in the cntre, the comment "Have you put the heater on yet ?" made me realise that, although it was on, it was blowing cold air. Quick check of the Temp Guage and heart attack as I saw the guage actually moving
Spent the next 15 mins yo-yoing between 90 and 105 degrees in 20 second cycles. Everything returned to nornmal when we returned to the motorway (including the heater temp).
Any experiences similar to this ???
Thanks for any help.
Off to give the engine bay a thorough coat of looking at
:/beggingmode:
Thanks TVRGIT. I had a new Thermostat put in back in April so would be surprised/gutted if that were the case,
Talking of air locks...... I went to check the level the other day when I'd just returned from a trip. The water was still hot so I gingerly released the header tank cap but was surprised to hear nothing more than a small "Pfffftt !". I topped-up and all seemed to be normal. Have taken her out since and had no probs.
I think I read on here at sometime that the best way to get rid of airlocks is to run the motor through a few heat cycles with the header tank cap off.
Is this true ???
Ta for your time
Talking of air locks...... I went to check the level the other day when I'd just returned from a trip. The water was still hot so I gingerly released the header tank cap but was surprised to hear nothing more than a small "Pfffftt !". I topped-up and all seemed to be normal. Have taken her out since and had no probs.
I think I read on here at sometime that the best way to get rid of airlocks is to run the motor through a few heat cycles with the header tank cap off.
Is this true ???
Ta for your time
No thats not the right way.
Get the engine warmed up, not hot, just warm. Park the car so that the nose is just slightly higher than the rear.
Fill up the header tank.
Undo the Big nut at the top of the radiator (on the Driver's side). If coolant starts coming out immediately, tighten it back up. If no coolant comes out then, top it up with cooland until it is full, then tighten it back up..
Undo the bleed nipples under the airboxes until coolant comes out, then re-tighten.
Run the engine again for a couple of minutes, and repeat until all air is expelled.
note: The 'Book' way of doing it is just to use the bleed nipples, I just find the nose up, and undo the radiator bolt is a bit more efficient.
Get the engine warmed up, not hot, just warm. Park the car so that the nose is just slightly higher than the rear.
Fill up the header tank.
Undo the Big nut at the top of the radiator (on the Driver's side). If coolant starts coming out immediately, tighten it back up. If no coolant comes out then, top it up with cooland until it is full, then tighten it back up..
Undo the bleed nipples under the airboxes until coolant comes out, then re-tighten.
Run the engine again for a couple of minutes, and repeat until all air is expelled.
note: The 'Book' way of doing it is just to use the bleed nipples, I just find the nose up, and undo the radiator bolt is a bit more efficient.
Edited by JensenA on Friday 5th February 11:08
JensenA said:
No thats not the right way.
Get the engine warmed up, not hot, just warm. Park the car so that the nose is just slightly higher than the rear.
Fill up the header tank.
Undo the Big nut at the top of the radiator (on the Driver's side). If coolant starts coming out immediately, tighten it back up. If no coolant comes out then, top it up with cooland until it is full, then tighten it back up..
Undo the bleed nipples under the airboxes until coolant comes out, then re-tighten.
Run the engine again for a couple of minutes, and repeat until all air is expelled.
note: The 'Book' way of doing it is just to use the bleed nipples, I just find the nose up, and undo the radiator bolt is a bit more efficient.
Agree wil JensenA here - forget the book, this is exactly how I was told to do it by 2 separate TVR specialists, when I had similar problems - and it does make a difference.Get the engine warmed up, not hot, just warm. Park the car so that the nose is just slightly higher than the rear.
Fill up the header tank.
Undo the Big nut at the top of the radiator (on the Driver's side). If coolant starts coming out immediately, tighten it back up. If no coolant comes out then, top it up with cooland until it is full, then tighten it back up..
Undo the bleed nipples under the airboxes until coolant comes out, then re-tighten.
Run the engine again for a couple of minutes, and repeat until all air is expelled.
note: The 'Book' way of doing it is just to use the bleed nipples, I just find the nose up, and undo the radiator bolt is a bit more efficient.
Edited by JensenA on Friday 5th February 11:08
Cheers Alan,
Will do (or at least try to do)
Sets off looking for a hill with a bar at the bottom
ETA - You're a bloody genius ! Haven't done the external rails yet but doing the Radiator plug has already made it driveable again.
Many thanks for your help
Will do (or at least try to do)
Sets off looking for a hill with a bar at the bottom
ETA - You're a bloody genius ! Haven't done the external rails yet but doing the Radiator plug has already made it driveable again.
Many thanks for your help
Edited by Mr.Cerbera on Friday 5th February 19:36
Bloody Hell, this is not as easy as I thought.
Thought I'd had some progress but returned to the car adter a small run to find water pi$$ing out underneath. A check has revealed it is coming from under the header tank.
Now, that I've actually typed that, I realsise where I should be concentrating my efforts.
Wish me luck
Thought I'd had some progress but returned to the car adter a small run to find water pi$$ing out underneath. A check has revealed it is coming from under the header tank.
Now, that I've actually typed that, I realsise where I should be concentrating my efforts.
Wish me luck
Deffo, NOT out of the Cap. From somewhere underneath AFAICT.
In the good old days, a radiator had a cap which had a pressure spring in it to relieve excess system pressure.
What happens nowadays with these screw-on plastic caps on header tanks ??
Will rip the header tank out as soon as I've braved-up with another cuppa
In the good old days, a radiator had a cap which had a pressure spring in it to relieve excess system pressure.
What happens nowadays with these screw-on plastic caps on header tanks ??
Will rip the header tank out as soon as I've braved-up with another cuppa
I had the same problem on mine. Turned out to be the actual header tank leaking not the hose/cap. If you flip the header tank over, there's a plastic rivet in the gulley which can weep when the system gets over pressurised, I replaced my header tank and problem solved. Obviously check the hoses and connections first. New header tank and cap is ~ £21 from gsf
THE THERMOSTAT IS IN BACKWARDS
I'm 99.9% sure that's what's wrong if you fitted the sealed stat (or even took the stat out to fit new internals).
It happened to one of the other Cerbs over here and the job had been done by "an expert"
It'll work fine while you are driving but will boil-over in traffic.
The new stats and the old stats look very alike but the flow through them is very different.
Take the stat out and blow through the housing.
You will feel the air blow through 2 of the 3 pipes.
The "sealed" pipe points upwards i.e. to the rad and opens when the water has warmed up.
It's a bit of a dose to check it but I'm confident it will solve it.
Also while you have the stat out check and se if there is any bit of debris inside it (there was a bit of packaging material stuck in mine when I got it and it took ages to get the car warmed up).
I'm 99.9% sure that's what's wrong if you fitted the sealed stat (or even took the stat out to fit new internals).
It happened to one of the other Cerbs over here and the job had been done by "an expert"
It'll work fine while you are driving but will boil-over in traffic.
The new stats and the old stats look very alike but the flow through them is very different.
Take the stat out and blow through the housing.
You will feel the air blow through 2 of the 3 pipes.
The "sealed" pipe points upwards i.e. to the rad and opens when the water has warmed up.
It's a bit of a dose to check it but I'm confident it will solve it.
Also while you have the stat out check and se if there is any bit of debris inside it (there was a bit of packaging material stuck in mine when I got it and it took ages to get the car warmed up).
Thanks Ireland. As I said, it did get replaced, back in April and has been running perfectly since but it was Joo that did the work so I'm 100% sure that it was put in OK.
Thanks davidd. Looks like that top end of the system is sealed now but have still got a slow drip-drip leak somewhere which is ending up dripping off the lowest part of the gearbox seam.
Have tried to find a graphic of the cooling system in the manual but no luck.
Does anyone know if/where there is one ?
Ta to all.
Running out of Tea Bags
Thanks davidd. Looks like that top end of the system is sealed now but have still got a slow drip-drip leak somewhere which is ending up dripping off the lowest part of the gearbox seam.
Have tried to find a graphic of the cooling system in the manual but no luck.
Does anyone know if/where there is one ?
Ta to all.
Running out of Tea Bags
Edited by Mr.Cerbera on Thursday 11th February 14:54
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