Keeping chassis rust at bay
Discussion
I'm sure that many of you with Cerberas of any significant age will have noticed the c**p quality of the powdercoat finish on the suspension and chassis and the subsequent rusting that takes place.The front wishbones particularly seem vunerable to the paint sheeting off (presumably due to flexing??)leaving a heavily corroded surface. Being a sad individual, I spent 2 days over the Christmas period underneath the beast armed with wire brush, Black and Decker, Dremel, Jenolite rust inhibitor, red oxide paint and Hammerite white smooth finish. It all looked lovely by the time I'd finished but last week took it in for MOT (its now 4 years old). Passed the MOT with flying colours but I was able to look at the results of my handywork 3 months on whilst it was up on the ramp. Rust spots are breaking through in numerous places and I'd guess that by next Christmas I'll be back to square one.
Anyone out there who has tried anything different to my aforementioned treatment?
Regards
John
Anyone out there who has tried anything different to my aforementioned treatment?
Regards
John
Byker28i said:
POR15 products, 2 pack top coat, hardens through a chemical process. Seems ok two years on.
Fully accept the full monty approach with body off, but to clarify, for a touch up job: 1)Rub back to bare metal
2)The full 3 stage POR15 rust treatment of
i)Cleaner Degreaser
ii)Metal Prep
iii)Rust Preventative Coating
and then
3)POR15 2K Urethane gloss top coat?
Re stages 2)i)&ii), what's special about POR15 degreaser, won't celly thinners do? and what does the Metal Prep do beyond that, does it etch?
And I was thinking of a more heat resistant top coat on the chassis rails next to the manifolds eg VHT
In my experience it is really important to address areas when they become accessible.
So when the manifolds are off you can treat the areas that suffer as a result of the truly insane expansion tank overflow 'design'.
When the suspension is off then make the most of that opportunity.
As you can see from this photo, my efforts at applying POR15 are in keeping with the standard the PO employed when painting the front of the car.
However, I can't see that when I'm driving.
So when the manifolds are off you can treat the areas that suffer as a result of the truly insane expansion tank overflow 'design'.
When the suspension is off then make the most of that opportunity.
As you can see from this photo, my efforts at applying POR15 are in keeping with the standard the PO employed when painting the front of the car.
However, I can't see that when I'm driving.
I've installed Design Engineering reflect-a-gold tape to the chassis tubing and rails adjacent the manifold in an effort to prevent the coating being damaged by the high temperatures.
I'm also going to try spraying some ACF-50 generally, and especially in those hard to reach areas.
And then there's the stainless steel front outrigger protectors purchased from Peter to install.
I'm also going to try spraying some ACF-50 generally, and especially in those hard to reach areas.
And then there's the stainless steel front outrigger protectors purchased from Peter to install.
Revvit said:
And then there's the stainless steel front outrigger protectors purchased from Peter to install.
I don't think the car has outrigger protectors as standard, it only really to protect the brake and clutch lines on drivers side. However like many others I have added an aluminium shield to the passenger side as well.
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