Help with adaptives needed please
Help with adaptives needed please
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caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
I am about to setup the Cerb on the lappy with the diagnostic software, but being numpty and reading the values, I may need some help!

I havn't taken out the linkage bar yet, or started her up. But these are the readings after just plugging it in:
This is just with the ignition on.




Should I let her run up to temp first, and then re-take the readings, before taking off the link bar and setting up/balancing?

Thanks

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
With the link bar out:



I assume the bar needs adjusting, seeing as its out when the bar is in...?

Edited by caduceus on Tuesday 6th April 14:34

shoggyraminator

255 posts

205 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Just an initial observation here ( not an expert one). Your TP 1 is reading 45% open with the bar connected. I can't see how this reading is correct as the throttle appears to be almost half open. Surely the car would be racing with no peddle being applied, which I assume it's not doing?

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Correct. It idles fine.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
A graph and diag with engine running for about 7 mins:




Peppe

376 posts

250 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Hi !

On the first screen you can see that some time it has been a faulty signal from the tpots, baro sensor, air temp sensor and water temp sensor. This might have happend during service (ignition on with disconnected sensors) or just by washing the engine bay. I suggest that you reset the fault codes with the software and check again after a run. If the sensors are OK no faults should be reported.

The battery fault is a little bit trickier to solve, it seems as you have low voltage at or in the ECU 11.8 volts with the engine running isn´t correct.
Try to measure the voltage on the pins that supply the ECU with 12 volts, if that voltage is low you have a problem somewhere between the battery, 100 amp fuse at the top of the passenger, fuse box, ignition module, imobilieser and the ECU. A lot of connectors that can be corroded on the way.

The adaptives are a little bit too far apart so I would balance the throttles with a syncrometer and then adjust the tpots so the adaptives come closer to each other.

stuthemong

2,532 posts

246 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
2nd trace looks good when all up to temp, nearly there to me. You can see both lamdas happily bouncing around which means the adaptives are cock on. You can now use the adaptives to tweak the system to perfection!

both Tpots are slightly underreading what the Throttle position should really be, so the ECU is adapting to that and adding a bit extra fuel over what it expects to need to balance it out - this is a +ve adaptive value. You should turn engine off, let both TPot values settle then undo their bolts, swing them forward slightly (TPot 2 more than Tpot 1) such that without touching any of the physcail throttle arrangement (idle screw etc) the Tpot readings are both slighty higher. How much higher I don't know to dial out a +5% and +16% adaptive - but I'd try 0.5% extra on TPot 1 and 1% extra on Tpot 2 and see what that does to the adaptives. It should bring them both down a shade. Ideally they'll both be in the -10% to 0% region on the adaptives smile

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice gents. Will have another try tomorrow.

I did notice a new fault when I went back to the lappy earlier. The AFR2468 was logged as BAD. Fook knows whats caused that confused

Might take it out for a decent run tomorrow, weather & time permitting.

stuthemong

2,532 posts

246 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
AFR's are caused when the ECU is unable to get an adaptive value that works - basically happens when you have a misfire (you don't look to!) or a lamda sensor is out of kilter. I've had it once on mine but it's just a glitch in the machine. As you lambdas look OK and the adaptives are clearly working, I wouldn't be overly concerned. Reset it and keep an eye on it.


caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Thursday 8th April 2010
quotequote all
Ok, after my first run out in her since last Nov, this is what the graph was showing:



I forgot to print scrn the adaptive page, so I'll do that on my next run.
No2 lambda seemed a bit lazy at first, but started moving after a while.

Does this graph look healthy?

I really will have to get someone to explain how to read and make sense of all these lines and numbers hehe

Peppe

376 posts

250 months

Thursday 8th April 2010
quotequote all
If you read the software manual you can learn a lot about what the differnt values show. I am the one that put the manual together so it is a version for the SP6 since i have just a SP6, but all the values show the same thing. Some values should be at different readings one a AJP though such as throttlepots. Another difference is that the tpots aren´t adjustable on a SP6, they are calibrated by reseting the throttles in the software. That should not be done on a AJP, the tpots should be adjusted by moving them to the correct values.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

295 months

Friday 9th April 2010
quotequote all
I think because it was laid up for a while over winter, it needed a decent run, which it did have yesterday.
Last run out everythying settled down, adaptives were spot on, no faults and lambdas were bouncing around nicely. I forgot how bloody fast these things get to 100. Kph, obviously hehe

Thanks again for your help chaps.