Need some pointers on water hoses

[morebeanz]

Having as little trouble identifying the right hoses for the right conection from the ACT water hose kit that I took delivery of this week. Below is a labelled picture of the kit (borrowed from ACT, thank you) and a kiddies quality sketch of the AJP V8 circuit (2000 vintage).






I reckon the following connections are correct: A - 1, G - 4, F - 3, H - 2, B - 6, D - 5, I - 9, J - 8, K - 10

I have no idea where C or E should fit, and I seem to be missing pipes for 7, 11, 12, 13!!

I'm sure some of you have fitted this kit, so I'd appreciate some pointers! I'm trying to do this today, hence my not waiting until Tim and the guys are back tomorrow...

[Steve_T]

Ian I think one of the hoses might be for the oil breather.

[morebeanz]

Steve_T said:

Ian I think one of the hoses might be for the oil breather.

Do you mean one of the kit hoses? I'm not sure why they would include that?

[amazon]

Morning!

I watch with keen interest as I have to do this shortly. I was thinking that I would remove one and match it up to the new one, then fit it - one at a time....

Also, I believe that ACT do two hose kits - one part kit and one full kit - so maybe you have a kit with more pieces that just water pipes?

[JensenA]

This may help a bit



White = Thermostat
Red = Engine Water rails
Red = I've forgotten
I wouldn't pull your hair worrying about what bit goes where. Just go for it, it will all become clear once you start, as you remove each old pipe match it up with the new one.

[morebeanz]

Wow, those water manifolds are immaculate (compared to mine!).

You're right about just getting stuck in, and I will in a bit.

Nicky, I have the "full" kit which is suposed to include the expansion tank side of the hoses too, and that is where my problem is - I can't identify those pieces...

[FeelTheNoise]

E = 13
On mine 'C' was your number 2 (right-angle from stainless pipe to thermostat)

My kit did not replace 10,11 & 12 but I reckon they are made by cutting pipe K into sections (if you have enough)

I would suggest that A is actually number seven (slight drop required from stainless pipe down to under the front of the engine and onto the water pump).

I would expect H to be number 1 (thermostat to rad, it has to meander around the chassis hence the funny shape. But I have to say it's a different shape to mine (long 90 degree) but depends where your thermostat is sitting).

Just suggestions, hope they help!

Phil

[morebeanz]

Hi Phil. That's very useful, thanks.

I know what you mean about sectioning K for the other parts, but that would seem odd given the meticulous packaging around the rest of the kit. It would also mean that I am short several clips - not that any of it is a big deal...

[CER927]

A coincidence maybe,considering what you lot are up to, but my heater hose sprang a leak today, after asking for 10mm (3/8th) heater hose at a local (ish) spares shop and being sold 13mm I returned it, came away with 10mm only to find when I got home that now I'd been given airbrake hose! Will this be a problem over time ( Ive used it to keep the car mobile) or will it give years of stirling service and I can forget and move on to the next pressing job? Ive already changed to the ACT stainless steel pipes and silicon hoses but havent got round to the heater hoses yet.

[markh1]

I bought this kit from ACT. What makes things slightly confusing is that parts like 'E' that go under the expansion tank have to be cut to fit. Before some of them are cut they may not actually look like they go anywhere. I just went into the garage to take a pic of mine but you can't really see much with everything else in the way.

[morebeanz]

For what it's worth, I managed to remove three hoses over four hours today. I undid only seven clips, and three of those needed to be hacksawed off.

The bit I am now most troubled by is that the water manifolds look so rusty, I am beginning to feel I should replace those too. If I do that then I enter the territory of nightmare on the temperature sender that noone seems to be able to undo!!

Still, I am at least reminding myself what it's like to actually pick up a spanner...

[amazon]

morebeanz said:

For what it's worth, I managed to remove three hoses over four hours today. I undid only seven clips, and three of those needed to be hacksawed off.

The bit I am now most troubled by is that the water manifolds look so rusty, I am beginning to feel I should replace those too. If I do that then I enter the territory of nightmare on the temperature sender that noone seems to be able to undo!!

Still, I am at least reminding myself what it's like to actually pick up a spanner...

I was shown a couple of really good tools for removing old hoses -one looked like a hoof pick (horse equipment) - removes the pipe in seconds. I'll see if I can get a name in case that helps you.

I am sorry it's turning out to be a painful job - not least because I know I have to do it in the next week or so too!

Fortunately for me, I can learn from your experience, so thank you!

Oh and I was recommended in the past when I fitted a couple to the Cerbera you know - to rub down the metal pipes the hose is going on to for a good seal - but I expect you are already aware of that.

[morebeanz]

Thanks for the encouragement, Nicky. It has been so long since I last ventured under the bonnet that I had forgotten all of the little foibles of dealing with very dirty, highly stressed metal!

The "hoof pick" sounds interesting - I assume it's to break the seal between the tube and metal? I'm currently using a flat blade screwdriver for that. At the moment, I'd give anything for a tip on how to remove a clip that's rusted solid and has no room to get to with a hacksaw! Still, I'm enjoying myself doing it, although the back is a little sore this morning from all of the leaning over!

Are you going to replace the water manifolds, or just the hoses?

Edited by morebeanz on Tuesday 1st June 07:34

[mikesr]

Getting the sensors out is much easier with the hoses off as you can get at them from the inside as well. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and care.

I cleaned up the metal pipes and coated them with black POR15

From this



to this

[morebeanz]

That looks great!

I'm not sure whether to do that or go stainless replacement. I guess in the spirit of my spannering adventures, I really ought to clean them up myself...

[high52kojak]

The stainless water manifolds are quality items, while you are doing the hoses it makes sense to replace them as well, it'll save doing it in the future. The standard TVR ones are not the best.

[amazon]

morebeanz said:

Thanks for the encouragement, Nicky. It has been so long since I last ventured under the bonnet that I had forgotten all of the little foibles of dealing with very dirty, highly stressed metal!

The "hoof pick" sounds interesting - I assume it's to break the seal between the tube and metal? I'm currently using a flat blade screwdriver for that. At the moment, I'd give anything for a tip on how to remove a clip that's rusted solid and has no room to get to with a hacksaw! Still, I'm enjoying myself doing it, although the back is a little sore this morning from all of the leaning over!

Are you going to replace the water manifolds, or just the hoses?

Edited by morebeanz on Tuesday 1st June 07:34

'hoof pick' does just that

I will also get the back problem I expect

It's needing to replace the water manifolds that has made me decide to replace the hoses at the same time. Do you remember the Cerbera trip where I was delayed in Ashford for an extra couple of hours?

Well, it sticks in my mind! And actually I had just had (not by me) new water manifold fitted - I think the leak was provoked by 'disturbing' the rubber hoses, so I am learning from that.

This is a project Cerbera I am working on , not my black one, so I the existing pipes need replacing.

Press on Morebeanz! Look forward to next installment!

[morebeanz]

The seal around a number of the hoses that I've come across was incredible, and I still may end up breaking something unintentionally while struggling to pull off a hose (ooer!).

I didn't realise that you had a spare Cerb that you could practise on! You lucky thing. Doesn't that take your Tiv count to three now?

Probably the most challenging part of doing this myself is the sure knowledge that it will take me aeons longer than a professional, and I'll miss out on driving!

[Tanguero]

morebeanz said:

At the moment, I'd give anything for a tip on how to remove a clip that's rusted solid and has no room to get to with a hacksaw!

Either a Dremel with cut off wheel if there is room or a good sharp cold chisel under the adjuster.

[morebeanz]

Tanguero said:

morebeanz said:

At the moment, I'd give anything for a tip on how to remove a clip that's rusted solid and has no room to get to with a hacksaw!

Either a Dremel with cut off wheel if there is room or a good sharp cold chisel under the adjuster.

I'm so dumb sometimes - I have a Dremel sitting in the garage too! Thanks!