Where is the Gearbox filler ?
Discussion
Hi Chaps and Chapesses,
I've done a few searches for this and I find lots of recommendations for Oil Types and lots of comments about how inaccessible it is but I can't find anything about where the actual filler/level plug is.
Is it an inch or so above and behind the drain plug on the driver's side ??
Ta for any replies.
(Le Mans is calling)
I've done a few searches for this and I find lots of recommendations for Oil Types and lots of comments about how inaccessible it is but I can't find anything about where the actual filler/level plug is.
Is it an inch or so above and behind the drain plug on the driver's side ??
Ta for any replies.
(Le Mans is calling)
Tanguero said:
Its about half way up the side of the gearbox on the drivers side. A 3/8 ratchet with no socket is just the right size to fit the square recess in the plug (on mine anyway)
...and its hard to get at because of the O/S exhaust...so make sure you can get at it before you drain down!Edited by Tanguero on Friday 9th July 14:41
Now this is going to sound ridiculous proposition but, you might actually be better off removing the g`box to re-fill it. I couldn't actually undo the fill plug on mine when undertaking my recent engine work. It sounds like a lot of work but trust me it isn't all that bad a job to do.
Edited by M3John on Friday 9th July 17:46
I fill mine from the engine bay. Like I said a slim 3/8 drive ratchet is the right size to fit the plug and on mine at least will fit between the exhaust and the box. Once you have the fill plug out, drop a length of syphon tube down the side of the engine from the top. Back underneath you can widgett the end into the filler hole.
Pour oil down the tube from above. it only goes down slowly so it gives you plenty of time to look underneath to see if its pissing out of the hole yet. When it does - stop pouring. Oh - and do remember to put the drain plug back in first!
Pour oil down the tube from above. it only goes down slowly so it gives you plenty of time to look underneath to see if its pissing out of the hole yet. When it does - stop pouring. Oh - and do remember to put the drain plug back in first!
If it helps I did a gearbox oil change on my Chimaera at the weekend, I believe the Chim has the same box as the Cerbera.
It was very easy, no gearbox removal required, you just need one of these bad boys.
Jack the car from the drivers side only and support using two good axle stands, check the security of the supported car by giving it a little rock before you concider getting under the car.
Crawl under to find the filler plug, as described earlier it lives half way up the box on the drivers side.
Use a A 3/8 ratchet with no socket, it will be tight as its normally got some thread lock on it.
I needed to use the ring end of a large spanner hooked over the handle of my ratchet to get enough leverage to break the thread lock on the filler plug, a length of pipe would be better.
Undo the drain plug and let gravity do the rest.
Replace the drain plug and use your colonic irigator syringe to pump in the new oil, my device takes a litre at a time so you will need to repeat approximately 2.5 times.
As the oil starts to flow out you know you have a full box.
Replace the plug.
When the oil starts to exude from the filler hole you need to be fast putting the plug back in, this is the most difficult bit of the job as oil will be running over your hand and up your sleeve.
Normally that's when you drop the filler plug in some gravel and the air turns blue.
That's why it helps to jack the car from the drivers side only, I will try to explain.
The correct fill level is when the oil stops flowing out of the hole with the car on level ground, but a bit more wont hurt the box.
Jacking the car from the passenger side puts the box at a very slight angle so the filler hole is marginally higher than when the car is on a level.
This buys you some time & ensures that even if it takes a few attempts you will definitely have a full gearbox.
As the gearbox is in the centre of the car you are not increasing the height of the hole very much, so I really doubt there is any danger in overfilling the box, it just ensures you don't underfill it which is very important.
The whole process took me a very leisurely 45 minutes including jacking the car.
I would say my method is considerably faster than removing the gearbox, to me that would be a bit like removing the engine to fit new rocker cover gaskets.
The colonic irigator syringe is the key to success here, and you can use it to scare your fiends too
It was very easy, no gearbox removal required, you just need one of these bad boys.
Jack the car from the drivers side only and support using two good axle stands, check the security of the supported car by giving it a little rock before you concider getting under the car.
Crawl under to find the filler plug, as described earlier it lives half way up the box on the drivers side.
Use a A 3/8 ratchet with no socket, it will be tight as its normally got some thread lock on it.
I needed to use the ring end of a large spanner hooked over the handle of my ratchet to get enough leverage to break the thread lock on the filler plug, a length of pipe would be better.
Undo the drain plug and let gravity do the rest.
Replace the drain plug and use your colonic irigator syringe to pump in the new oil, my device takes a litre at a time so you will need to repeat approximately 2.5 times.
As the oil starts to flow out you know you have a full box.
Replace the plug.
When the oil starts to exude from the filler hole you need to be fast putting the plug back in, this is the most difficult bit of the job as oil will be running over your hand and up your sleeve.
Normally that's when you drop the filler plug in some gravel and the air turns blue.
That's why it helps to jack the car from the drivers side only, I will try to explain.
The correct fill level is when the oil stops flowing out of the hole with the car on level ground, but a bit more wont hurt the box.
Jacking the car from the passenger side puts the box at a very slight angle so the filler hole is marginally higher than when the car is on a level.
This buys you some time & ensures that even if it takes a few attempts you will definitely have a full gearbox.
As the gearbox is in the centre of the car you are not increasing the height of the hole very much, so I really doubt there is any danger in overfilling the box, it just ensures you don't underfill it which is very important.
The whole process took me a very leisurely 45 minutes including jacking the car.
I would say my method is considerably faster than removing the gearbox, to me that would be a bit like removing the engine to fit new rocker cover gaskets.
The colonic irigator syringe is the key to success here, and you can use it to scare your fiends too
Thanks Lads, you've been absolute stars.
Thought I'd do the usual pics to help anyone else who needs to have a go.
Eventually found the level plug here ....
which, as you can see is an inch or so above and behind the drain plug. In the photo I've almost completely undone the plug so that you can see where it is. It will, of course, be more recessed when you first come to look for it.
Extracted said plug with 3/8" socket.....
and managed to refill the box with a heavily-adapted, old oilcan that I inherited from my old Pot-and-Pan.
I now have index fingers and thumbs that I can comfortably flick a cigarette around the equator with
Many thanks, once again, for all your contributions and recommendations
Thought I'd do the usual pics to help anyone else who needs to have a go.
Eventually found the level plug here ....
which, as you can see is an inch or so above and behind the drain plug. In the photo I've almost completely undone the plug so that you can see where it is. It will, of course, be more recessed when you first come to look for it.
Extracted said plug with 3/8" socket.....
and managed to refill the box with a heavily-adapted, old oilcan that I inherited from my old Pot-and-Pan.
I now have index fingers and thumbs that I can comfortably flick a cigarette around the equator with
Many thanks, once again, for all your contributions and recommendations
Or you can use an Oil Safe pump or similar
I have one of these for diff oil and another for gearbox, and you can store oil in between changes. There again, I probably change my transmission oils rather more often than you guys (once every two race weekends), so the cost of the pumps is justified by the time (and mess) they save me
I have one of these for diff oil and another for gearbox, and you can store oil in between changes. There again, I probably change my transmission oils rather more often than you guys (once every two race weekends), so the cost of the pumps is justified by the time (and mess) they save me
Nice pics Mr Completely,
I like your adapted oil can but I have to say my syringe is bigger
, size does matter you know.
After all this I expect lots of TVR folk will be out there pumping their gearboxes next weekend.
As long as its consensual and the correct lubricants are used I don't have a problem with that
Oh, and remember to wear protection boys!
I like your adapted oil can but I have to say my syringe is bigger
, size does matter you know.After all this I expect lots of TVR folk will be out there pumping their gearboxes next weekend.
As long as its consensual and the correct lubricants are used I don't have a problem with that
Oh, and remember to wear protection boys!
teamHOLDENracing said:
Or you can use an Oil Safe pump or similar
I have one of these for diff oil and another for gearbox, and you can store oil in between changes. There again, I probably change my transmission oils rather more often than you guys (once every two race weekends), so the cost of the pumps is justified by the time (and mess) they save me
Hmmmm, I'm getting pump envy!I have one of these for diff oil and another for gearbox, and you can store oil in between changes. There again, I probably change my transmission oils rather more often than you guys (once every two race weekends), so the cost of the pumps is justified by the time (and mess) they save me
Chimpaholic said:
It was very easy, no gearbox removal required, you just need one of these bad boys.
.....
The colonic irigator syringe is the key to success here, and you can use it to scare your fiends too
Ummm, sorry Dave but is this really a Colonic Irrigator ?.....
The colonic irigator syringe is the key to success here, and you can use it to scare your fiends too
I know I'm setting myself up for a million kicks but...
really ?
( Wonder what "Colonic Irrigator" is in luxembourgish ?)
(Nah, I guess I could do it with hand movemnts )
Oh look what you've got mr looking at now
Cheers Andy, that's got my Chrissy pressie sorted out.
Do you hve a Web reference for that ?
TVM
PJ
Cheers Andy, that's got my Chrissy pressie sorted out.
Do you hve a Web reference for that ?
TVM
PJ
Edited by Mr Completely on Monday 12th July 17:08
Mr Completely said:
That's just sick man!If you really want to get your hands on a giant tool like mine you need to contact these people:
http://www.agriemach.com/index.php
Quote code: PMHF93477 "1 Quart Evacuation/dispensing pump" £15.50 plus VAT & delivery.
I cant see it on their website, but that's where my one came from.
Perhaps the international colonic irrigation society has snapped up all their stock?
When you use it don't thrust the plunger in too hard at first, you need to slide it in gently.
I found talking to it softly in a French accent got it ready for action in no time
Mr Completely said:
Oh look what you've got mr looking at now
Cheers Andy, that's got my Chrissy pressie sorted out.
Do you hve a Web reference for that ?
TVM
PJ
here you goCheers Andy, that's got my Chrissy pressie sorted out.
Do you hve a Web reference for that ?
TVM
PJ
Edited by Mr Completely on Monday 12th July 17:08
http://shop.difflock.com/oilsafe-pump-litre-p-93.h...
Worth searchind around for. And I disagree you can change the pump between drums - it woud be difficult to purge the pump of oil
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