Brake Options - 4.5
Brake Options - 4.5
Author
Discussion

vroom

Original Poster:

665 posts

313 months

Monday 19th July 2010
quotequote all
Well I've managed to rack up 200 miles or so since I got the old plastic bath tub on the road.

So far so good, but I've got a nasty judder under braking that shakes the steering wheel (and my fillings!)

I suspect the front discs are uneven as they are quite spotted & pitted.

I had a go with emery cloth - but no improvement

Had the wheels balanced too

Toying with the idea of getting them skimmed - there is a garage just down the road who will do it with the discs in situ for 50 + vat per disc.

I would then fit new pads

Looking at the discs they look in reasonable nick (very small lip - but they could have been skimmed before), but when I run my finger across the disc they feel thicker in the middele rather than the outer edges. Is this normal?

Plan B would be new discs and pads, but there seems to be so many choices - looking for a std set-up as I'm an easy going driver (normally have the 2 little ones in the back.)

Which TVR parts supplier is the best (& cheapest!) in this instance?

What a bloody fantastic car tho - I love it!

Cheers

Nick

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Monday 19th July 2010
quotequote all
Front drag link bushes first.

I'll bet ya £20 it fixes most of it. smile

vroom

Original Poster:

665 posts

313 months

Monday 19th July 2010
quotequote all
I've already fitted Steve Heath Drop Links

I suspect discs because when I come almost to complete stop I can feel very uneven braking...

Edited by vroom on Monday 19th July 22:01

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Monday 19th July 2010
quotequote all
Not drop links, drag links. wink

The bar that projects forward from the lower wishbone. Fit new bushes in that.

Byker28i

91,639 posts

246 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
What pads have you got? I used to swear by Mintex 1144's but then found out that Castle Coombe caused them to overheat and warp the disks. Got some of Brummies Carbone Lorraine pads with the new disks and they are excellant.

markh1

2,846 posts

238 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
I have a similar problem, my brake disks are warped. I know it's not the bushes as they are all new.

DaveR

1,209 posts

313 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
Shed clearout looming. When I get a spare 5 minutes I'm going to list some Cerb 4.5 alloy brake bells in the classifieds.

They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.

I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20

Jasper Gilder

2,166 posts

302 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
I had this on both my 4.5 Cerbs, almost certainly warped discs.

Replacement discs cost a fortune - and they do it again. However I found that Tuscan S discs - which also happen to be cross drilled, are a direct fit, half the price, give better stopping and don't warp

It's a no brainer!

Gazzab

21,640 posts

311 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
Jasper Gilder said:
I had this on both my 4.5 Cerbs, almost certainly warped discs.

Replacement discs cost a fortune - and they do it again. However I found that Tuscan S discs - which also happen to be cross drilled, are a direct fit, half the price, give better stopping and don't warp

It's a no brainer!
Ths Tuscan S discs in place of the separate rotors and bells? The latter are a much better race derived vrake, but like you I have shudder issues with them. The Tuscan ones can suffer from cracking and are not as effective on track days and the like.

vroom

Original Poster:

665 posts

313 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
thanks for all the replies everyone


DaveR said:
Shed clearout looming. When I get a spare 5 minutes I'm going to list some Cerb 4.5 alloy brake bells in the classifieds.

They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.

I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
So can I just buy the rotors & bolts from AP and fit to my existing bells? If so where & how much?

I thought the only option was to fit the single piece Tuscan discs as they AP ones were no longer available?

Very confused now...


high52kojak

505 posts

226 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
Your looking at about £450 for a pair of 330mm rotors from AP( they don't do the original size anymore ), I bought a pair last year along with carbon Lorraine pads. I have to say the brakes are not as good or sharp as they were on the old rotors and unknown pads??

There is another company about that do the same size rotors with correct PCD etc, about £300.

jonbarrett

800 posts

231 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
Under no circumstances change your disks until you have checked your drag link bushes. I spent a year and over £500 trying to correct brake judder. Skimmed disks, replaced pads, replace disks. Nothing solved the problem completely. Local garage and MOT staion both took a look. Research confirmed that warped disks are very rare. I then replaced the drag link bushes and all was solved.

I think the original rubber suspension bushes should be treated as consumables and replaced from time to time.

vroom

Original Poster:

665 posts

313 months

Tuesday 20th July 2010
quotequote all
Thanks all

Bushes first it is then - one more job for the weekend!

smash

I'll let you know how I get on

Edited by vroom on Tuesday 20th July 22:13

vroom

Original Poster:

665 posts

313 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
quotequote all
Should I go for the original rubber bushes or upgrade to poly ones from Racing Green?

Edited by vroom on Wednesday 21st July 09:44

methodwares

583 posts

273 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
quotequote all
vroom said:
Should I go for the original rubber bushes or upgrade to poly ones from Racing Green?

Edited by vroom on Wednesday 21st July 09:44
RG is not cheap, go to steve heath.

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
quotequote all
Poly from SH. Only way to go. thumbup

vroom

Original Poster:

665 posts

313 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
quotequote all
I cannot see the bush listed on SH site

Sue sent me a piccie of the suspension set-up but it doesn't show the drag link, only the wishbones.

Which one do I need?

Thanks

Gazzab

21,640 posts

311 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
quotequote all
DaveR said:
Shed clearout looming. When I get a spare 5 minutes I'm going to list some Cerb 4.5 alloy brake bells in the classifieds.

They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.

I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
Cheers Dave - look forward to receiving the bells! Brake upgrade here I come!

pmessling

2,321 posts

232 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
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I have some AP 4 pot tvr calipers CP660 calipers pair brand new with new pads, pins rattle plates etc and some brand new tvr 304mm x 30mm, 72mm centre bore, PCD 114mm and stamped with PDC 29 AZ RP5330-2C. discs

Wanted to upgrade the calipers on my ZT but won't clear the wheels, but now as i'm after a cerbera best if i sell them and put the money towards a 4.5

£500 or make me an offer

jonbarrett

800 posts

231 months

Wednesday 21st July 2010
quotequote all
I went for polybush but I'm sure the originals are OK. Drag links are the steel bars that run from the lower suspension arm to the front of the chassis.