Partial body lift
Discussion
I was scraping away at my outriggers, slowly coming to the conclusion there wasn’t much point in going much further with out being able to get at the top of them when I noticed the radiator has conveniently sprung a leak. Digging down at the front there I saw the two front body mounting bolts that the radiator has to come out to get at, so I thought if I’m taking the radiator out I may as well lift the body at the same time...
I couldn’t find any step by step guides to lifting the body, so I’m trying to make list of all the bits that need to be disconnected to do the lift. (I may well make a guide if there really aren’t any)
First question – is there anything that can be left connected if only lifting just enough to get to the top of the outriggers? I’m thinking all the electrical connections to the engine here?
Getting the body off:
For the bolts, there are all the ones that are obvious from underneath & those two behind the rad. Then there looks to be four at the back – necessitating fuel tank removal?
I did find this on here:
"You have to disconnect the steering and brake lines at the pedal box, electrics for purge can, fuel pump and fuel lines. All seat belts need unbolting which requires lifting out the bottom of the rear seats. The door side front seat belt mounts need to have a small amount of glass fibre cut out from around them as they are glassed around after the body is fitted. You can see the upright seatbelt mount tags half way along the outriggers, its not much of a job."
Which sounds fair enough, but what is the purge can? I happen to have just removed all the rear fuel pipes (as they were getting very cracked) & the fuel pump along with what I assumed was the carbon canister from up in the off side rear wheel arch, could that be know as the purge can also?
So to remove:
Radiator
Fuel tank
Bolts underneath & behind the Radiator Fuel tank
Flexible fuel pipe front & rear (I can already see there wouldn’t have been enough play in the rear pipe)
Fuel filter & electrics to purge can (carbon canister?)
Brake pipes from pedal box
Steering UJs
Seats
Seat belts with fibre glass round mounts
Capillary tube for engine temp (I guessing this has no flex for a partial lift)
Anything else left to undo before lifting a bit?
Before any asks, I still intend to do a proper full strip down & re-build in the future, I just want try & keep it in decent condition till I get around to it. I’ve been keeping on top of the main back bone over the years, but have been neglecting the outriggers a bit thinking I could always just replace them. Looking at them it seems they actually may be quite good, all that waxoyl must have been doing it’s job! I just want to have a good look at the top of them & if they are ok give them a good coat of paint to last a bit longer.
I couldn’t find any step by step guides to lifting the body, so I’m trying to make list of all the bits that need to be disconnected to do the lift. (I may well make a guide if there really aren’t any)
First question – is there anything that can be left connected if only lifting just enough to get to the top of the outriggers? I’m thinking all the electrical connections to the engine here?
Getting the body off:
For the bolts, there are all the ones that are obvious from underneath & those two behind the rad. Then there looks to be four at the back – necessitating fuel tank removal?
I did find this on here:
"You have to disconnect the steering and brake lines at the pedal box, electrics for purge can, fuel pump and fuel lines. All seat belts need unbolting which requires lifting out the bottom of the rear seats. The door side front seat belt mounts need to have a small amount of glass fibre cut out from around them as they are glassed around after the body is fitted. You can see the upright seatbelt mount tags half way along the outriggers, its not much of a job."
Which sounds fair enough, but what is the purge can? I happen to have just removed all the rear fuel pipes (as they were getting very cracked) & the fuel pump along with what I assumed was the carbon canister from up in the off side rear wheel arch, could that be know as the purge can also?
So to remove:
Radiator
Fuel tank
Bolts underneath & behind the Radiator Fuel tank
Flexible fuel pipe front & rear (I can already see there wouldn’t have been enough play in the rear pipe)
Fuel filter & electrics to purge can (carbon canister?)
Brake pipes from pedal box
Steering UJs
Seats
Seat belts with fibre glass round mounts
Capillary tube for engine temp (I guessing this has no flex for a partial lift)
Anything else left to undo before lifting a bit?
Before any asks, I still intend to do a proper full strip down & re-build in the future, I just want try & keep it in decent condition till I get around to it. I’ve been keeping on top of the main back bone over the years, but have been neglecting the outriggers a bit thinking I could always just replace them. Looking at them it seems they actually may be quite good, all that waxoyl must have been doing it’s job! I just want to have a good look at the top of them & if they are ok give them a good coat of paint to last a bit longer.
The only real difference between a partial body lift, and a Full body off, is that when you do a full body off, before you lift the body off completely you stop, have a cup of tea and say "Look, a partial body lift", then you carry on 
.
You would probably save yourself having to disconnect the main wiring loom, that's about it.
.You would probably save yourself having to disconnect the main wiring loom, that's about it.
Very true!Forgive my ignorance, how do these guys do it? http://www.castlesportscars.co.uk/servicing/view/6...
Seems a lot less trouble than removing the whole body, or are there areas that corrode that this doesnt cover?
Seems a lot less trouble than removing the whole body, or are there areas that corrode that this doesnt cover?
Demondad said:
Forgive my ignorance, how do these guys do it? http://www.castlesportscars.co.uk/servicing/view/6...
Seems a lot less trouble than removing the whole body, or are there areas that corrode that this doesnt cover?
As it's says they cut off the outriggers & replace them, with out moving anything else. Very good if you like paying other people to stuff for you, you have the best part of 2k (I guessing per side) & your outriggers are shot, needing a bit more than a good coat of paint. Seems a lot less trouble than removing the whole body, or are there areas that corrode that this doesnt cover?
Edited by Luckyone on Tuesday 10th August 21:53
Ask them if they do it on Cerberas? Bet they don't.
Different cars have much different set ups as far as chassis fitment into the tub.
You probably could just about do it on a Cerb but I would expect you would have to cut part of the tub clear to get good welds. Also on the Cerb there is a piece of Fibreglass around the seatbelt mounts that you have to cut to get the chassis out.
Different cars have much different set ups as far as chassis fitment into the tub.
You probably could just about do it on a Cerb but I would expect you would have to cut part of the tub clear to get good welds. Also on the Cerb there is a piece of Fibreglass around the seatbelt mounts that you have to cut to get the chassis out.
Luckyone said:
Getting the body off:
For the bolts, there are all the ones that are obvious from underneath & those two behind the rad. Then there looks to be four at the back – necessitating fuel tank removal?
There is also two bolts under the dashboard. You have to lift the center console to get to them. For the bolts, there are all the ones that are obvious from underneath & those two behind the rad. Then there looks to be four at the back – necessitating fuel tank removal?
Peppe said:
Luckyone said:
Getting the body off:
For the bolts, there are all the ones that are obvious from underneath & those two behind the rad. Then there looks to be four at the back necessitating fuel tank removal?
There is also two bolts under the dashboard. You have to lift the center console to get to them. For the bolts, there are all the ones that are obvious from underneath & those two behind the rad. Then there looks to be four at the back necessitating fuel tank removal?
So can the centre console can be lifted enough to get at them then?
Just Done mine body insitu because as already mentioned I will have to do a full job oneday but dont want to do so yet.
My poor old car 66k on the clock is not getting used outriggers totally shot stopped me bothering to try and MOT it last year ... she how has 2 very nice outriggers TIG welded on the bench and then to the car ... Just need to get her running again!
The outriggers come out easily enough - minor cutting around seatbelt mount and mr jigsaw to cut pipes 3 access holes made to weld top of tubes! braced the car while i did it but to be honest didnt look like it would have warped anyway.
My poor old car 66k on the clock is not getting used outriggers totally shot stopped me bothering to try and MOT it last year ... she how has 2 very nice outriggers TIG welded on the bench and then to the car ... Just need to get her running again!
The outriggers come out easily enough - minor cutting around seatbelt mount and mr jigsaw to cut pipes 3 access holes made to weld top of tubes! braced the car while i did it but to be honest didnt look like it would have warped anyway.
Thanks for that David, useful to know, but my outrigers look rather good. I just want to get at the top of them to check for sure & give a good coat of paint
JensenA said:
Andy - YHM
Thanks very much for all the info Alan. As you said it is a big job, but I'm going for it anyway. I started with the rad & it's pipes as they were all coming off anyway. They were such a pig it seemed silly not keep going, everything since then has been plain sailing. I'll post up again to let you know where I get to. Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff