Engine removal....

[RA500]

After being stood for a while, it started for a few seconds and died.

Hasn't started since and wont turn over now either.

Have taken plugs out and tried to turn over, no joy (and it has a new starter too!

Turns over by hand but somthing is binding, sounds likle a rubber belt not moving on a pulley, aircon pump now removed and alternator slackened off and still the same.

I can't hear eactly where the binding is so I am removing the engine.

The front mounts look like they won't clear the chassis and the rack is in the way to get to the bolts.

What is the easiest way to get the engine out?
Does it make it easier to get the engine out with the gearbox and manifolds still attached?
Where is the safest place to strap the engine up?

I think I have everything elso covered but could do with a copy of the engine rebuild manual if anyone has it, the manuals I have do not cover torques and procedures.

Thanks
Adam.

P.S, They aren't normally hard to turn over by hand are they?

[itiejim]

You don't say what engine, however, I'm going to guess you have a V8. When you say turn over by hand - I take it you mean with a long spanner or similar on the front pulley bolt.... It's going to be REALLY hard to turn over a big V8 just by trying to turn the pulley with your bare hands, even with the plugs out.

I've had my engine out - and was very glad I did given what I found when I got inside it. However, it does sound like you may have a little fault finding to do before you jump into engine removal. You describe a binding noise; the cam chain run is quite long and, without the noise of the engine to cover it, can make a little noise. Could this be what you are describing? Try removing the oil filler and see if that makes it clearer. Have you plugged it in to the diagnostics? There are loads of reasons why it will not run. Will it turn over with the help of another battery? In the past I have had problems with poor running under lambda control which caused the injection system to run rich at tick over so that, when you turned the engine off, it struggled to turn over again simply because of the amount of fuel in the pots.

Have you checked compression? What was your oil pressure like? Unless you just have run a lot more tests that you have mentioned here I think that an engine removal may be premature.

Having said all that, if you are determined to go ahead it's not a bad engine to remove.It's easiest to do it with the box on and you can leave the exhaust manifolds on too. From memory:

Remove front engine mounts and front pulley. It's also easier if you take the throttle bodies off as it gives you a little more room to lift. Disconnect the manifolds from the cats and drop the centre section of the exhaust off.

Remove the prop and unbolt the gear lever (a couple of bolts through the lever just below where it comes into the car.

Remove all the obvious bits - electrical connections, fuel supply, hoses to oil cooler etc.

Heave!!

RA500 said:

After being stood for a while, it started for a few seconds and died.

Hasn't started since and wont turn over now either.

Have taken plugs out and tried to turn over, no joy (and it has a new starter too!

Turns over by hand but somthing is binding, sounds likle a rubber belt not moving on a pulley, aircon pump now removed and alternator slackened off and still the same.

I can't hear eactly where the binding is so I am removing the engine.

The front mounts look like they won't clear the chassis and the rack is in the way to get to the bolts.

What is the easiest way to get the engine out?
Does it make it easier to get the engine out with the gearbox and manifolds still attached?
Where is the safest place to strap the engine up?

I think I have everything elso covered but could do with a copy of the engine rebuild manual if anyone has it, the manuals I have do not cover torques and procedures.

Thanks
Adam.

P.S, They aren't normally hard to turn over by hand are they?

[RA500]

Hi Jim,

It's a 4.5 btw, and have done my fair share of engine changes in the past

Yes, I mean with a socket, extension and big bar and the plugs out,

Think I may be ok, injected 5mm of oil into each bore before and turned the engine over a couple of times and have just tried it again and it turns over much better without as much sticking so was probobly just the rings on dry bores (hopefully). never had that before!

Will get another new battery tomorrow and see what happens when it's all built up again.
Will try a compression test if I can get it turning over on the starter!

Is the diagnostic lead easy to make? is there a schematic somewhere?

[itiejim]

You just need an old lap top and a serial lead - male connector on one end and female on the other. If you Google "Cerbera diagnostic" you should find it on the net. A search on here will give you and idea on how to use it if you're unsure.

Good luck!

[RA500]

Good stuff, I have an old laptop for diagnostics so will pick a lead up from maplins.

Thanks again.