Exhaust manifold
Exhaust manifold
Author
Discussion

The Nige

Original Poster:

184 posts

218 months

Monday 4th October 2010
quotequote all
smash Found a crack in the manifold but how does the manifold come out?
Air box has been removed the bottom sections of the manifold has been removed as well as all the manifold studs.
smashDoes it go up and out or down. Or have I missed some thing. 98 4.2

cheers

Nigel

high52kojak

505 posts

226 months

Monday 4th October 2010
quotequote all
You'll have to remove the water rails and most likely undo the engine mounts and push the engine across to give enough space for removal. Its a bit of an awkward job

The Nige

Original Poster:

184 posts

218 months

Monday 4th October 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for the info high52kojak
And to think I was hoping some one was going to tell me just twist and pull. I can knock that on the head for tonight.

Cheers
Nigel



jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

241 months

Monday 4th October 2010
quotequote all
Don't suppose you want a spare set to use whilst yours are being repaired do you? Got a pair up for sale in the classifieds at the mo. smile

Luckyone

1,091 posts

261 months

Tuesday 5th October 2010
quotequote all
They come out with out removing the water rails on a 4.5, is a 4.2 different? Engine & gearbox mounts still need undoing, takes a lot twisting & swearing though!

I welded mine back up with them still on the car one time, can you not get to the cracks with out taking them off?

If you don't want them cracking again you could try what I did here link

high52kojak

505 posts

226 months

Tuesday 5th October 2010
quotequote all
How the hell did they come out with the water rails on? Good work, mine is a 4.5 and they were difficult to get out even with the extra room the removed rails gave.

Luckyone

1,091 posts

261 months

Tuesday 5th October 2010
quotequote all
high52kojak said:
How the hell did they come out with the water rails on? Good work, mine is a 4.5 and they were difficult to get out even with the extra room the removed rails gave.
Once I'd taken the bolts out if the gearbox & engine mounts I jacked the engine up a bit (using a bit of 4x2 timber to spread the load) so it would shove over a bit more, that should give just enough room.

Once you have one out the other is much easier as the engine will move over much further with out a manifold there stopping it!

Make sure you remove all the bolts from the lower holes, even though the exhaust has cut outs on the bottom & will come off with out taking them all the way out they still get in the way.

They come out of the top, I found after jacking the car up much higher to try & out of the bottom...

Even then it's very tight & makes a right mess of the exhaust rap you spent ages putting on the last time they were out mad



The Nige

Original Poster:

184 posts

218 months

Tuesday 5th October 2010
quotequote all
I have the engine & gearbox mounts undone, but I seem to be better at the twisting & swearing than removing the bloody things shoot.

Never mind I've had enough now and my cold bottle of Bud is giving me less agro.

jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

241 months

Tuesday 5th October 2010
quotequote all
Removing the front engine mounting brackets completely helped me a lot when I had to remove my manifolds. Otherwise they just catch on the chassis and steering input shaft and severely limit the movement of the engine.

high52kojak

505 posts

226 months

Wednesday 6th October 2010
quotequote all
I removed just the passenger side engine mount, I didn't touch the gearbox mounts. After removing said mount and jacking the engine slightly it could be pushed across enough to pull the pas side manifold up through the top, with a bit of twisting.
For the drivers side I got a piece of wood down near the gearbox somewhere to lever the engine across the other way, then that manifold was lifted out, of course it makes it easier if you have a friend there to help.

Luckyone

1,091 posts

261 months

Wednesday 6th October 2010
quotequote all
Arse, that reminds me why it was so much harder this time. The first time it took them off I changed all the rubber mounts, with them removed from the engine mounts it can all move much more, I'd been wandering how I'd got them in with damaging the wrap, doh.

If you don't want to change them removing the whole mount would be a better bet, as said above passenger one only, the drivers won't come off with out taking a hard oil pipe off.

I did get them out this time with the rubbers & mounts still there but it would be a lot easier to just take that mount right off!

The Nige

Original Poster:

184 posts

218 months

Wednesday 6th October 2010
quotequote all
They are both cracked in more or less the same position on the two inside manifold, is this the norm?





Now step in at any time, as I understand tomorrow they are going to be brazed not welded because welding causes the carbon inside the pipes to be mixed during welding which then becomes carbon steel which is brittle and why they tend to crack again after welding.

Cheers guys

Nigel

jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

241 months

Wednesday 6th October 2010
quotequote all
Yup, exactly where mine cracked and where I've seen a couple of other pairs crack.

The Nige

Original Poster:

184 posts

218 months

Friday 8th October 2010
quotequote all
Hi guys
looking for some advice, manifolds all welded (Tig) Can you tell me are gaskets available I am struggling to find them? If no what do we recommend?

Thanks

Nigel

itiejim

1,822 posts

234 months

Friday 8th October 2010
quotequote all
There are no gaskets - just high temperature silicon - try to get the lambda safe stuff.