Clutch - Topping up the fluid proceedure?

[pdavison]

It would appear that my clutch has gone or is on it's way out.

The pedal has gone limp for the first 3/4 of travel and I know that you can top up and bleed the hydraulics and I wondered if anyone could either email me or post the proceedure.

If I can get the pedal to work again I can drive to APM to get my baby sorted, if not it's on the back of a flat back lorry.

Also, does anyone know the cost of hiring a flat back and the best way to go about this?

[kojak69]

There is a black cover in the back of the engine bay, on the drivers side. Its near the brake fluid. Its sealed with black mastic, and screwed down with 2 screws. Inside is the clutch master cylinder.

Can you see any oil leaks near your feet (which is below the master cylinder) or under the car?

The bleed pipe is also near here. A braided pipe at the back of the engine bay.

Are you in the AA/RAC?

[pdavison]

I don't currently have breakdown cover, might opt for direct line as my insurance is with them. My only concern is joining and then calling the day after for assistance.

[kojak69]

I'd join anyway. I put homestart and parts and labour on my AA policy, and then my clutch went the day after. Worth having. To be flat bedded from A to B would cost at least £100 I guess.

[andy4200]

kojak is right, you'll see the bleed pipe at the back of the engine bay (braided with nipple on end). It's a temporary measure though to get you home (if it works). Problem is if the cylinder really goes but you don't see any fluid on the floor then it is probably still inside the clutch. If it gets onto the friction plates and contaminates them then......

:soiwastoldandstandtobecorrected:

Andy

[trooper1212]

How far is it to APM?

I managed to last for a couple of months just topping up the master cylinder every time I lost the ability to change gear, but my clutch was only floppy for about 1/4" of travel. Then one day it suddenly went and that was it.

It sounds to me that yours is closer to the terminal stage than mine was.

What kojak didn't mention is that you need to remove the engine bay cover to get at the master cylinder cover. There will be 2 alan key bolts about a third of the way down the engine bay, one on each side. You'll also need to undo a bolt on each side where the engine catches are fixed.
Very easy and obvious once you look at it.

Your clutch will be fine by the way, it's be your master or slave cylinder seals. I'd recommend replacing them both at the same time.

[kojak69]

trooper1212 said:

Your clutch will be fine by the way, it's be your master or slave cylinder seals. I'd recommend replacing them both at the same time.

Isn't there a shortage on slaves at the moment?

If you do change the slave cylinder; while you're in there, if the clutch has been in since new, and its done a few miles, it might be wise to change that too.

Master cylinder is cheap to do, but the slave means a lot of work to get at it.., hence my advise on changing the clutch as well.

>> Edited by kojak69 on Friday 16th April 15:52

[trooper1212]

kojak69 said:

trooper1212 said: Your clutch will be fine by the way, it's be your master or slave cylinder seals. I'd recommend replacing them both at the same time. Isn't there a shortage on slaves at the moment?

I believe some people are having troubles, but you'll only need a new cylinder if the sides are scored. It's most likely just to need the seals replacing, rather than a whole new unit.

Agree with you on the clutch, and as sods law dictates that it is always the slave cylinder than fails, it'll be a good time to spend even more money