Fuse box, boot light and HID question
Discussion
Completey unrelated to eachother but not worth seperate threads, so can anyone help with the following -
1) Can anyone confirm spare live input/output in the fuse box in the boot is a suitable place for my ctek trickle charger? (rated at 3.6A)
2) Apparently there is an illusive switch for the boot light? I've had a quick search but can't seem to find one and it would be handy to have a light in the boot that worked!
3) The controversial one! I know this subject comes up quite often, but my lights are so poor to the point where I keep checking that I have actually switched them fully on and not just on sidelights whenever I am out at night!
a) Does anyone have any pics?
b) 35w or 55w? I'm tempted by the 35s to give the wiring/charging system an easier life.
c) H4 Bi-zenon are the ones I want/need for the 'old style' headlamps, right?
Honestly, I'm sure people don't even see me coming because the lights are such a dim yellowy glow like a candle, rather than a nice crisp beam.
1) Can anyone confirm spare live input/output in the fuse box in the boot is a suitable place for my ctek trickle charger? (rated at 3.6A)
2) Apparently there is an illusive switch for the boot light? I've had a quick search but can't seem to find one and it would be handy to have a light in the boot that worked!
3) The controversial one! I know this subject comes up quite often, but my lights are so poor to the point where I keep checking that I have actually switched them fully on and not just on sidelights whenever I am out at night!
a) Does anyone have any pics?
b) 35w or 55w? I'm tempted by the 35s to give the wiring/charging system an easier life.
c) H4 Bi-zenon are the ones I want/need for the 'old style' headlamps, right?
Honestly, I'm sure people don't even see me coming because the lights are such a dim yellowy glow like a candle, rather than a nice crisp beam.
Edited by tejr on Tuesday 4th January 14:58
I can help with the HID Lights bit.
I put a set of 55W BiZenon light that do dip and main beam. Didn't take a photo of before as they were as you describe, pointless really. Now absolutely top notch but still no photo I am affaid but several mates who have been in the car before and after are amased at the difference.
As for the boot light switch it is on the boot hinge near the filler cap, the part of the hinge mounted on the main body not the lid. It is and angled piece of metal with a rubber bit on the end, if you compare with the drivers side the switch is the bit that is different between the two hinges.
Hope this make sense?
I put a set of 55W BiZenon light that do dip and main beam. Didn't take a photo of before as they were as you describe, pointless really. Now absolutely top notch but still no photo I am affaid but several mates who have been in the car before and after are amased at the difference.
As for the boot light switch it is on the boot hinge near the filler cap, the part of the hinge mounted on the main body not the lid. It is and angled piece of metal with a rubber bit on the end, if you compare with the drivers side the switch is the bit that is different between the two hinges.
Hope this make sense?
Trickle Charger - I just use the cigar lighter adaptor. With the boot open and light on surely you will not charge anything?
Boot light switch. There should be a black sliding switch at the base of the boot lid hinge close to the petrol cap. The boot hinge opens the switch and turns the power off.
HIDs - ignoring the legalities and suitability issues for your reflectors/lenses I would suggest getting them from Ebay. I got my H7 (?) ones from there and they are great - I have tuscan style lights. Dont fall for the hype re upmarket sets. Yes go for 35w (I did the research and I recall this being "safer") and make sure you dont go overtly blue with the colour. I cant recall what I went for colour wise. I would consider going for a slightly yellowish tint as opposed to blue. They are easy to fit.
Boot light switch. There should be a black sliding switch at the base of the boot lid hinge close to the petrol cap. The boot hinge opens the switch and turns the power off.
HIDs - ignoring the legalities and suitability issues for your reflectors/lenses I would suggest getting them from Ebay. I got my H7 (?) ones from there and they are great - I have tuscan style lights. Dont fall for the hype re upmarket sets. Yes go for 35w (I did the research and I recall this being "safer") and make sure you dont go overtly blue with the colour. I cant recall what I went for colour wise. I would consider going for a slightly yellowish tint as opposed to blue. They are easy to fit.
Edited by Gazzab on Tuesday 4th January 15:57
Cheers guys, I had a search around all over the place for the switch but found nothing! Didn't check near the hinge though.
Hopefully the boot won't be open, I'm pretty sure I can get the cable to trail out of the rear with the boot lid closed
But do you reckon that is a safe enough place to wire it in?
As for HIDs, I usually go with 4300k which are pretty much oem, anything blue will look a little silly in non-projectors as well, though I will miss the projectors on my previous two cars. Might opt for 5000k this time round in the 35w as it seems the 'safe' choice as you say, I think HIDs pull more current than halogens for the first minute until they settle down and become more efficient.
Hopefully the boot won't be open, I'm pretty sure I can get the cable to trail out of the rear with the boot lid closed
But do you reckon that is a safe enough place to wire it in?As for HIDs, I usually go with 4300k which are pretty much oem, anything blue will look a little silly in non-projectors as well, though I will miss the projectors on my previous two cars. Might opt for 5000k this time round in the 35w as it seems the 'safe' choice as you say, I think HIDs pull more current than halogens for the first minute until they settle down and become more efficient.
I've just fitted HIDs in mine. Went for 5500K 35W with new stock replacement reflectors as both of mine were FUBAR.
Amazing difference, lights that actualy work! I purposefully set them low so as not to dazzle other drivers and haven't had an issue with anyone flashing. The difference is absolutely amazing compared to the standard candles.
I mounted the balasts on the lower side of the upper horizontal chassis tubes and took a fused feed straight off the battery with both balasts earthed at a convenient point on the chassis. Including swapping the reflectors and having to redrill them (a certain parts provider sells them as originals when they aren't and need drilling to suit the cerb) it was no more than an afternoons work.
Amazing difference, lights that actualy work! I purposefully set them low so as not to dazzle other drivers and haven't had an issue with anyone flashing. The difference is absolutely amazing compared to the standard candles.
I mounted the balasts on the lower side of the upper horizontal chassis tubes and took a fused feed straight off the battery with both balasts earthed at a convenient point on the chassis. Including swapping the reflectors and having to redrill them (a certain parts provider sells them as originals when they aren't and need drilling to suit the cerb) it was no more than an afternoons work.
Would be nice to know what power and temp these were? Look like 55w 5000k but hard to tell from a pic
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Does that have a seperate +ve battery feed? I'm tempted by a 55w kit, but would prefer one with a relay.
Also, how easy is it to get to the bulbs? I imagine wheels off and remove the arch liner? Arch liner is usually a pain with millions of hidden screws, poppers and innaccesable area on the cars I've worked on before?! I'm hoping its straight forward on the Cerb? (wishful thinking? lol)
Also, how easy is it to get to the bulbs? I imagine wheels off and remove the arch liner? Arch liner is usually a pain with millions of hidden screws, poppers and innaccesable area on the cars I've worked on before?! I'm hoping its straight forward on the Cerb? (wishful thinking? lol)
i have 5000k HIDs bi-zenon and they are fantastic
i have a accumate wired straight to the battery with a two pin plug under the bonnet with a rubber cap and can have the bonnet down when plugged in(i figured it best there as i will always check the levals before first start up anyway)
my boot light switch is in the boot lid aperture next to the o/s hinge
HTH
i have a accumate wired straight to the battery with a two pin plug under the bonnet with a rubber cap and can have the bonnet down when plugged in(i figured it best there as i will always check the levals before first start up anyway)
my boot light switch is in the boot lid aperture next to the o/s hinge
HTHtejr said:
Hopefully the boot won't be open, I'm pretty sure I can get the cable to trail out of the rear with the boot lid closed But do you reckon that is a safe enough place to wire it in?
If yours is like mine, running the wire into the boot will be fine. The boot light switches off long before the lid's all the way down, so the light will be off if you just rest the lid on the seal. I gently rest it down then lock & alarm the car with it this way. But do you reckon that is a safe enough place to wire it in?I wired mine to the connections onto the big dim-dip box - nice handy position and just spade connectors so easy to hang the connection plug off. No worries with current, unless your trickle charger isn't really a trickle charger.
TDFPELTD said:
I've just fitted HIDs in mine. Went for 5500K 35W with new stock replacement reflectors as both of mine were FUBAR.
Amazing difference, lights that actualy work! I purposefully set them low so as not to dazzle other drivers and haven't had an issue with anyone flashing. The difference is absolutely amazing compared to the standard candles.
I mounted the balasts on the lower side of the upper horizontal chassis tubes and took a fused feed straight off the battery with both balasts earthed at a convenient point on the chassis. Including swapping the reflectors and having to redrill them (a certain parts provider sells them as originals when they aren't and need drilling to suit the cerb) it was no more than an afternoons work.
Where did you manage to find new reflectors? I'm assuming you mean original H4 style? I can't find any in the usual places. Amazing difference, lights that actualy work! I purposefully set them low so as not to dazzle other drivers and haven't had an issue with anyone flashing. The difference is absolutely amazing compared to the standard candles.
I mounted the balasts on the lower side of the upper horizontal chassis tubes and took a fused feed straight off the battery with both balasts earthed at a convenient point on the chassis. Including swapping the reflectors and having to redrill them (a certain parts provider sells them as originals when they aren't and need drilling to suit the cerb) it was no more than an afternoons work.
I've got 5500k 55w bixenons from china via eBay and they have transformed night driving. Would still like new reflectors though... And to be able to stop the water getting in!
Any pics of the 55w's?
I'm still so split on whether to go for the 'safe' option of 35w, but looking at the existing 50w halogens I'm not sure the HIDs will give enough output (though, I am aware 35w HID is still more light than 50w halo).
Also, do you have a link to the seller you bought yours from? Is it one with a seperate relay (ie, new +ve feed from the battery) or just a plug and play jobby?
I'm still so split on whether to go for the 'safe' option of 35w, but looking at the existing 50w halogens I'm not sure the HIDs will give enough output (though, I am aware 35w HID is still more light than 50w halo).
Also, do you have a link to the seller you bought yours from? Is it one with a seperate relay (ie, new +ve feed from the battery) or just a plug and play jobby?
Anyone got a pic of this boot light switch?! There is nothing that I can see near the petrol cap, but on the off side there is a sliding thing that could be a switch? But the light in the boot doesn't light (not blown). Tried to have a feel for behind it from within the boot and can't seem to locate wiring?
tejr said:
Any pics of the 55w's?
I'm still so split on whether to go for the 'safe' option of 35w, but looking at the existing 50w halogens I'm not sure the HIDs will give enough output (though, I am aware 35w HID is still more light than 50w halo).
Also, do you have a link to the seller you bought yours from? Is it one with a seperate relay (ie, new +ve feed from the battery) or just a plug and play jobby?
Sorry, didn't see this until now. No pics yet I'm afraid but the difference from standard bulbs is stunning. They're actually 6000K but they don't look particularly blue to me. I'm still so split on whether to go for the 'safe' option of 35w, but looking at the existing 50w halogens I'm not sure the HIDs will give enough output (though, I am aware 35w HID is still more light than 50w halo).
Also, do you have a link to the seller you bought yours from? Is it one with a seperate relay (ie, new +ve feed from the battery) or just a plug and play jobby?
I bought mine from:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/55W-50W-H4-BI-XENON-HID-CONV...
Arrived within 5 working days, well packaged and working fine. They're plug & play. I can't see any difference from the ones sold by UK outlets and I presume they're all made in the same factories, just marketed differently.
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