I'm too high
I'm too high
Author
Discussion

cerberarno

Original Poster:

88 posts

188 months

Monday 7th February 2011
quotequote all
My idle is too high around 1200 rpm

I've obviously tried to unbolt the screw under the linkage but even with a gap , idle 's too high

released tension on cable

Managed to adjust the spring on the other extremity ( not really a factory mounting...)

The spring is pulling vertically but the linkage would go down at the end of travel so the geometry is bad

I could ( hardly ) find a better place for the spring BUT even if I push the linkage back the idle is not comming down so much .

I've obtain a +- 1100 rpm seems a bit high for my ears (?) , no way could reach a stall but idle is constant & regular

Any help ?










Pursyluv

1,949 posts

203 months

Monday 7th February 2011
quotequote all
I recently had the same problem, a replacement throttle pot fitted by RaceProved cured it.

Mr Cerbera

5,151 posts

259 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
My idle is 800 rpm

sonnylad

1,165 posts

254 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Mr Cerbera said:
My idle is 800 rpm
Sounds far too low, you need to be up nearer the 1000rpm mark for alt to be charging battery.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
If the throttle butterflies are closing and the throttle pots aren't completely knackered, then you have an air leak on the inlet side of the throttle somewhere.

Try listening for it with a length of tube with one end held to your ear - you can often hear the air rushing.

Mr Cerbera

5,151 posts

259 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Tanguero said:
If the throttle butterflies are closing and the throttle pots aren't completely knackered, then you have an air leak on the inlet side of the throttle somewhere.

Try listening for it with a length of tube with one end held to your ear - you can often hear the air rushing.
Ooh, talking about that, is it possible that one of the butterfly retaining screws could have dropped out/in ??

(Sorry, don't want to panic you, more testing my comprehension really)

Mr Cerbera

5,151 posts

259 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
sonnylad said:
Mr Cerbera said:
My idle is 800 rpm
Sounds far too low, you need to be up nearer the 1000rpm mark for alt to be charging battery.
Hi Russ, wavey
listen, as you've stuck your head above the parapet, a quick (?) question to a lighting engineer.

HID units ? Waht are all these comments I keep reading about wiring them "directly to the battery" and "avoiding the ballast resistor".

By the way this is from a person who has difficulty changing the batteries on his TV Remote control - so keep it simple, pleeeeease thumbup



gruffalo

8,150 posts

255 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all

HID units ? Waht are all these comments I keep reading about wiring them "directly to the battery" and "avoiding the ballast resistor".

By the way this is from a person who has difficulty changing the batteries on his TV Remote control - so keep it simple, pleeeeease thumbup



[/quote]


Some HiD kits use the cars wiring to provide the 12V supply to the HiD Ballast system which then steps this up to the High Voltage AC supply needed by the bulbs.

Others that connect to the battery only use the cars Wiring to control a set of relays that come with the kit to control the lights, on/off and hi/low. The 12Volt supply comes directly from the battery via an inline fuse.

The advantage on a TVR of the direct from the battery version is that the light control units in a Cerb are in the boot so the wiring goes from the front to the back and then back to the front again, this is one reason why the lights in a Cerb are often so bad, by the time all the wiring has been traversed you are left with 10Volt at the bulb. Direct from the battery takes all of this wire out of the high current part of supplying the bulb and just uses it to control relays so it doesn't have an adverse effect on the brightness of the bulbs.

Rewiring your car to use relays in the same manner as HiD kits can actually make a huge improvement over the standard system, not as good as HiD but much better than standard.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Mr Cerbera said:
Ooh, talking about that, is it possible that one of the butterfly retaining screws could have dropped out/in ??

(Sorry, don't want to panic you, more testing my comprehension really)
That's certainly possible, so is a bent butterfly. Hopefully its more likely it is just a dodgy O ring under the heat barrier or something.

cerberarno

Original Poster:

88 posts

188 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
I 'd rather look toward a butterfly problem in my case then , wich could leave all other buuterfly open
than a problem of leacking in one ventury wich would raise the rpm for the whole engine ?...

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Have you confirmed that the butterflies are closing properly?

FUBAR

17,065 posts

267 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
I had a high idle sourced to worn butterflies. Fixed and now 900-1000 rpm rock solid smile

Toadusmodus

693 posts

310 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
FUBAR said:
I had a high idle sourced to worn butterflies. Fixed and now 900-1000 rpm rock solid smile
Out of curiosity, what was the fix for this??

FUBAR

17,065 posts

267 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Good question hehe


Byker28i

91,557 posts

246 months

Thursday 10th February 2011
quotequote all
Toadusmodus said:
Out of curiosity, what was the fix for this??
Knowing Fubes, a credit card and useful Indy. biggrin

Byker28i

91,557 posts

246 months

Thursday 10th February 2011
quotequote all
To the OP, what does the dignostics say?

Mr Cerbera

5,151 posts

259 months

Thursday 10th February 2011
quotequote all
gruffalo said:
Some HiD kits use the cars wiring to provide the 12V supply to the HiD Ballast system which then steps this up to the High Voltage AC supply needed by the bulbs.

Others that connect to the battery only use the cars Wiring to control a set of relays that come with the kit to control the lights, on/off and hi/low. The 12Volt supply comes directly from the battery via an inline fuse.

The advantage on a TVR of the direct from the battery version is that the light control units in a Cerb are in the boot so the wiring goes from the front to the back and then back to the front again, this is one reason why the lights in a Cerb are often so bad, by the time all the wiring has been traversed you are left with 10Volt at the bulb. Direct from the battery takes all of this wire out of the high current part of supplying the bulb and just uses it to control relays so it doesn't have an adverse effect on the brightness of the bulbs.

Rewiring your car to use relays in the same manner as HiD kits can actually make a huge improvement over the standard system, not as good as HiD but much better than standard.
Thank You, Sir ! Even I understood that thumbup

Byker28i said:
Knowing Fubes, a credit card and useful Indy. biggrin
roflroflroflrofl

Edited by Mr Cerbera on Thursday 10th February 08:41

FUBAR

17,065 posts

267 months

Thursday 10th February 2011
quotequote all
Byker28i said:
Toadusmodus said:
Out of curiosity, what was the fix for this??
Knowing Fubes, a credit card and useful Indy. biggrin
Bang on the money hehe

gruffalo

8,150 posts

255 months

Thursday 10th February 2011
quotequote all
Actually I took a leaf out of Fubes book on this one and STR8SIX fitted them, I just couldn't be faffed, it's cold out side at this time of year!!!!!

tur8o

176 posts

228 months

Thursday 10th February 2011
quotequote all
mine is a little higher than normal at the moment, when run for a while and fully warm its around 1100 - 1550rpm but thats because when u first start it in this cold weather its only about 900rpm so if i turn it down at the moment it cuts out or is really really low.