How do you keep yours cool?

[.Mark]

After 10 years in the Chimaera and never a whiff of the water temperature getting over hot, I notice on the Cerbera it does run very hot - I know it runs hotter than the Chimaera, but is 100 - 110 around right? If it is I'll not worry but I'd like to have a feel for what is right.

I do notice that when in traffic the temperature rises really quickly and it always causes me a little concern, but again, if it's normal then great.

I was wondering if there are mods or adaptations that keep the car a little cooler?

[tejr]

The car gets up to temp pretty quick.. It probably isn't hitting 110'C though tbh.. I had this issue where my gauge would quickly hit 98, fans would kick in, it'd cool.. but after a few heat and cool cycles the gauge would start to edge towards 110..

I started to get worried so installed a cooling chip so the fans now kick in at 84 and the second at 86 (instead of 92? and 98). But after a while the gauge would still read over 100 after a few heat/cool cycles..

I then replaced the mechanical gauge for a SPA electrical one and my temp readings never go above 84'C.It seems the mechanical gauge was just hugely innacurate as others will corroborate

The feed for the mechanical gauge just gets totally heat soaked so reads very high.. Mine didn't do this when I first bought the car so the capillary tube must have moved or something closer to the manifold..

But tbh, if you sit in traffic a lot you can probably expect to kill HT leads and coil packs pretty quick as well.. mine munched through a set of HT leads in a few months and I hardly drive it! Though when I do drive it sometimes I will get caught in heavy traffic so the temps under the bonnet must get pretty damn toasty!

Once on the move the car seems to over cool itself, in the winter cruising at 70-80 I would get coolant temps down to 57'C

[scotty_d]

I have a dirty great hole in my bonnet

No idea as how much it will affect cooling as i have still only driven it 48 miles since november when i got it.

[tejr]

If I had an unlimited budget I would love to ceramic coat the manifolds, decat the exhaust and wrap the cabling in heat proof shielding.. maybe fabricate some discreet vents in the bonnet and V-mount the rad! I think most of the under bonnet heat is from the exhaust manifolds though..

[.Mark]

Thanks,
I don't do much sitting in traffic, it's never that busy down here unless we are queuing for Goodwood Most other trips in it are purely for pleasure so traffic is avoided. Only time we get it is getting off the island as there is only 1 road.

Gauge does seem a little erratic, so I'll keep an eye on this. I think after 10 years trouble free (he says hugging tree) in the Chimaera, I'm back to the "oh it will fall apart at every bump" mode I was all those years ago

[gruffalo]

Thay are prone to the gauge being wrong and over reading by a lot.

At the Le Mans classic last year I was sat in stop start traffic for an hour getting out of Le Harve, it was mid to high 30's out side and bright sunshine, no over heating problems but the guage was reading 105 most of the time.

[.Mark]

Keep 'em coming, it's all making me feel better

[Mad Mark]

If you can get a laptop connected that will tell you the temperature via the electronic (apparently more accurate) connection for the ecu. You can then see how much higher the mechanical gauge is reading.

[.Mark]

Mad Mark said:

If you can get a laptop connected that will tell you the temperature via the electronic (apparently more accurate) connection for the ecu. You can then see how much higher the mechanical gauge is reading.

That would be great - what would I need to do this? Software, cables etc?

[K4TRV]

Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a laser temperature reader - less than £30 at Maplin - got mine for £19 when they had a sale?? Even borrow one??

Brill for reading all sorts of things in the engine bay and other things nothing to do with engines....like tyre temps after a sprint/hill climb etc!!!

HTH

Trev

[tejr]

I bought one of those too, but its a tad inconvenient to keep popping the bonnet and jumping out to take a temperature reading when your sat in slow moving traffic

Bought mine from here -

http://www.tvrmonster.com/store/index.php?act=view...

Getting a 9pin serial cable to USB lead is worth while also as you can read all sorts of other parameters from the ECU. Software is free and is somewhere online.

[aubrey9160]

I fitted a cooling chip and water wetter to mine and it worked a treat. Cooling chip brings fans on earlier and water wetter helps disipate heat better(I think).
Ive just sold my cerb and have got a cooling chip PM me if you are interested.

[.Mark]

aubrey9160 said:

PM me if you are interested.

Just did

[aubrey9160]

you should have a reply but im not too bright when it come to these computer thingies

[jammy_basturd]

Software - http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/ecu-diagnostic-s...

[Mad Mark]

K4TRV said:

Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a laser temperature reader - less than £30 at Maplin - got mine for £19 when they had a sale?? Even borrow one??

Brill for reading all sorts of things in the engine bay and other things nothing to do with engines....like tyre temps after a sprint/hill climb etc!!!

HTH

Trev

Would one of these be able to measure the temp of individual exhaust manifold pipes?
I'm thinking it might help identify any misfires, broken leads or coils that sort of thing!

[cerdad]

Mine overheated all the time,i fitted the chipfrom jools and the inlet minifolds,this lowered the temperature the fans kick in from 95 to 85 and, if you plug yourlaptop into the ecu it will tell you the real temp ,mine is 83c the gauge shows 95C .When i took it for its mot 83 was confirmed whenwarming it up for its emissions ,it passed, just.
Ive since put on silicon hoses and stainless pipes and forgot all about overheating because it does not.

[skidoo]

i fitted an alloy radiator and mine now sits at 80 all the time the gauge has only just come back from speedy cables so hopefully not to far out

[spongy]

Water wetter

[cerberarno]

Mine was switching between 100° /110°
I 've aimed a lazer temp gun direct at the bottle opened ,& other part of engine , that was saying 90° / 100°
I did clean the temp sensor contacts & It lowered the temp switching by 10 °
Now running 90° / 100° meaning a true 80° / 90°
Never more in traffic , fans are huge !
But overheating may come on a hot day's track ?