Clutch slave cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Author
Discussion

GT4 Baz

Original Poster:

627 posts

209 months

Monday 21st March 2011
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Hi chaps

Is it a gearbox out job to replace the clutch slave cylinder?

Thanks!

DWix

89 posts

189 months

Monday 21st March 2011
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I believe so, had it out (on my behalf) twice this year to access the slave

Tanguero

4,535 posts

225 months

Monday 21st March 2011
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No it isn't!

You have to separate the gearbox from the engine but you don't have to remove it. If you search on here there are numerous guides to doing this.

Mad Mark

2,345 posts

256 months

Monday 21st March 2011
quotequote all
You have to pull the gearbox back separating the box from the bellhousing. If you are lucky you can leave the bellhousing in place and pull the slave out toward you.
It's a job I have been putting off for months now as mine is leaking.

GT4 Baz

Original Poster:

627 posts

209 months

Monday 21st March 2011
quotequote all
Cheers for the answers, wish us luck!

Mad Mark

2,345 posts

256 months

Monday 21st March 2011
quotequote all
I wrote this clutch change guide a few years back. Although you don't need to do the clutch part the rest you will find helpful.

http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...

Or with pics..
http://www.clever-trevor.net/manuals/


GT4 Baz

Original Poster:

627 posts

209 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
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Thank you Mark, much appreciated!

RichV6

384 posts

231 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
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One thing that suprised me was the gearbox would not come out. It slides back fine then is stuck in the transmission tunnel. Still plenty room to remove bell housing and clutch but still a little suprising. I may be wrong but the only way to remove the box would be to push it back forward and down once clutch removed?

Watch out for putting wieght on the exhaust manifolds.

Mad Mark

2,345 posts

256 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
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RichV6 said:
Watch out for putting wieght on the exhaust manifolds.
Yes.. If you leave the box resting on the manifolds try and support the manifolds in some way. The manifolds are known to crack at their welds and having the weight of the gearbox can't be good!

Mr Cerbera

5,148 posts

254 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
Good Luck, Sir.

This job takes betwen 4 hours and 3 months depending on your ability/desperation/commitment.

I was the 3 months but it is (relatively) straight forward.
Couldn't hsve done it without Mad Mark's guide thumbup

esso

1,849 posts

241 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
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It takes a weekend if you know what your doing or if you have done it before..........with Marks guide........or it could take 3 months if your not sure of what your doing!

Mad Mark

2,345 posts

256 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
quotequote all
If all goes smoothly you can do a clutch in around 8hrs (obviously less if it's just the slave) but I usually prepare myself for 2 days and don't attempt to get it done in a day. I use any spare time to clean the chassis while the car is up in the air.

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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Tanguero said:
No it isn't!

You have to separate the gearbox from the engine but you don't have to remove it. If you search on here there are numerous guides to doing this.
Before I torch the f*@king thing..

How the hell do you undo the hydraulic fittings on the bellhousing?!! I have the braided hose on the side undone, but need to remove the 'L' fitting.. Also one on top just kept twisting the hose up, though I assume that is the bleed one, so easy to sort that..

The slave just slides out after?

On a side note.. Gearbox is very light!! Was not expecting that.

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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Calmed down a little now.. Apparently I am very grumpy today as a result of being rather sore from playing rugby yesterday.

Still need to know how to get that bleeding fitting out though.

Boatbuoy

1,972 posts

186 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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It's a bit fiddly but keep at it. Yes you need to twist the entire length of the top/bleed hose. I got someone else to twist the top end as I was undoing it at the bell housing.

Not sure why you need to remove the 'L' fitting if you've got the hose off already. Just leave it on the bell housing!

Here's a pic of mine when I fitted my new Raceproved slave, you can see that the hoses have been disconnected but both of the fittings are still in place:



I hope this helps, trust me man, I feel your pain! I've had the damn thing out twice now!

Regards,
Olly

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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Trying to leave the bell housing in situ.. CBA with starter etc removal.

Your L has come off leaving you with the stub.. Knew it should come off like that somehow!!

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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Does that stub on the side not stop the slave coming out?

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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I think I am being daft...

The bell housing channels the fluid? Those fittings don't screw into the slave do they?

(It was dark and cold, and I was lacking patience).

Boatbuoy

1,972 posts

186 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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The bell housing has a plain hole on the inside, the slave is shaped such that there is a gap between the bell and the slave body. The fittings do not go into the slave. It's this whole design that makes the original version less than ideal and prone to leaks!

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
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Bugger.. So I could have just pulled the slave earlier. Oh well. No rush it seems anyway. Got a chassis clean and tickle to do also.