Starting problems sorted
Discussion
Guys, just thought I would share this experience with you, as some of you seem to be experiencing similar problems. I bought my 1998 4.2 4 years ago. All went well until the starter motor packed up. I then fitted a new starter motor, which worked well- for a while, I then started experiencing starting problems. The car would always start from cold, but after a run, even a fairly short one, when the engine and gearbox were hot, I would only get a click when pressing the start button. I sought advice on here and was told it could be the solenoid getting too hot and therefore expanding and sticking in its housing. True enough if the car was left to cool off, it would start again. However, I had the same problem one day straight after washing it, and the engine was cold, the solendoid was just clicking, so I checked the voltage, and bu***er me, there was only 10V or so at the solenoid, I then checked the battery, which had a full charge, so I could only assume it was the immobiliser, I fitted a relay between the solenoid cable the battery and the starter button, which had the effect of putting 12V across the solenoid, since then the car has started every time, so no more problem, I also forked out for an Oddessy battery, which chucks out 1600 Cold cranking amps for 30 seconds, it also fits better than the Halfrouds 072, and the engine spins like a top, and I can now leave the car for up to a month without starting it and the battery running flat.
Edited by crazymatelot on Wednesday 6th April 17:05
jackwibble said:
Hi Crazy,
Which model Odyssey did you fit looked on their website and surprise surprise no TVRs listed, oh and who supplied it, cheers dude.
Hi guy, fitted the PC1250 supplied by devon 4X4 they can be found on www.devon4x4.com cost in 2009 £175.57 so not cheap but service life of these batteries is about 8-12 years.Which model Odyssey did you fit looked on their website and surprise surprise no TVRs listed, oh and who supplied it, cheers dude.
spongy said:
Top man,i have this very same problem not all the time but once and a while may give this a try.Sorry to be an arse but could you post up parts used and where you sourced em.Out comes the old multi meter,i actually carry this in the boot all the time
There is a thread on here somewhere detailing how the job should be done and what parts are required, however, have been unable to find it. will mail you diagram privately since I can't remember how to put piccies on here. Basically, you need a 12V 40Amp relay, In line fuse (30-40amp) plus heavy duty cable and female connectors for the relay. the job shouldn't take more than an hour or so. Disconnect the feed to the solenoid and use it to feed the coil on the relay. Take a new feed from the battery, and fit an inline fuse (close to the battery) and supply the input to the relay contact. Then connect the output contact to the starter solenoid. The relay I bought will operate from 8V up to 12V so even if the immobiliser does not supply full voltage, the relay will operate and supply a full 12V to the solenoid. Problem solved.Bit of a blast from the past...Where have those Seven years gone ? 
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Faulty immobiliser
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Faulty immobiliser
If the starter solenoid is clicking when the starter button is pressed, then it's not the immobiliser.
If it's not clicking, first ensure you have a good battery, then check the starter relay on the fuse board in the boot. Can you hear/feel this clicking when the starter button is pressed? If you can't, chances are the immobiliser is not supplying this relay the full 12volts.
The starter solenoid is energised from this relay on the fuse panel, which in turn is operated via a white/red tracer wire when pressing the starter button. The immobiliser is in this line, acting like an off/on switch preventing the starter button energising the relay in the boot, until the key fob is pressed.
A few years ago, many people found that their car would only start after holding the start switch down for minutes on end. On this forum, it became known as the "long push" fault. Remedies ranged from winding windows down then up, locking and unlocking doors and, sadly, in not a few cases, chanting various mantras! I had this fault on my car in 2006 and traced it to the immobiliser. 12volts went in to it on the white/red trace wire from the starter button, but an internal fault meant that even after the fob was pressed, only about 4 volts came out. The boot relay needed at least 5 or 6 volts to operate it.
The long push was because the faulty immobiliser electronics very slowly raised the output voltage until it eventually fired the relay, starting the engine.
My solution was to use a scotchlok to connect the two white/red trace wires together at the immobiliser plug and it's been perfect for the last 5 years, certainly cheaper and easier than rewiring with fuses, relays etc. Of course if the starter solenoid is clicking but not turning the engine, then the immobiliser must be supplying the correct voltage and you have a starter motor/battery/wiring circuit fault.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
If it's not clicking, first ensure you have a good battery, then check the starter relay on the fuse board in the boot. Can you hear/feel this clicking when the starter button is pressed? If you can't, chances are the immobiliser is not supplying this relay the full 12volts.
The starter solenoid is energised from this relay on the fuse panel, which in turn is operated via a white/red tracer wire when pressing the starter button. The immobiliser is in this line, acting like an off/on switch preventing the starter button energising the relay in the boot, until the key fob is pressed.
A few years ago, many people found that their car would only start after holding the start switch down for minutes on end. On this forum, it became known as the "long push" fault. Remedies ranged from winding windows down then up, locking and unlocking doors and, sadly, in not a few cases, chanting various mantras! I had this fault on my car in 2006 and traced it to the immobiliser. 12volts went in to it on the white/red trace wire from the starter button, but an internal fault meant that even after the fob was pressed, only about 4 volts came out. The boot relay needed at least 5 or 6 volts to operate it.
The long push was because the faulty immobiliser electronics very slowly raised the output voltage until it eventually fired the relay, starting the engine.
My solution was to use a scotchlok to connect the two white/red trace wires together at the immobiliser plug and it's been perfect for the last 5 years, certainly cheaper and easier than rewiring with fuses, relays etc. Of course if the starter solenoid is clicking but not turning the engine, then the immobiliser must be supplying the correct voltage and you have a starter motor/battery/wiring circuit fault.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
mulsanne said:
If the starter solenoid is clicking when the starter button is pressed, then it's not the immobiliser.
If it's not clicking, first ensure you have a good battery, then check the starter relay on the fuse board in the boot. Can you hear/feel this clicking when the starter button is pressed? If you can't, chances are the immobiliser is not supplying this relay the full 12volts.
The starter solenoid is energised from this relay on the fuse panel, which in turn is operated via a white/red tracer wire when pressing the starter button. The immobiliser is in this line, acting like an off/on switch preventing the starter button energising the relay in the boot, until the key fob is pressed.
A few years ago, many people found that their car would only start after holding the start switch down for minutes on end. On this forum, it became known as the "long push" fault. Remedies ranged from winding windows down then up, locking and unlocking doors and, sadly, in not a few cases, chanting various mantras! I had this fault on my car in 2006 and traced it to the immobiliser. 12volts went in to it on the white/red trace wire from the starter button, but an internal fault meant that even after the fob was pressed, only about 4 volts came out. The boot relay needed at least 5 or 6 volts to operate it.
The long push was because the faulty immobiliser electronics very slowly raised the output voltage until it eventually fired the relay, starting the engine.
My solution was to use a scotchlok to connect the two white/red trace wires together at the immobiliser plug and it's been perfect for the last 5 years, certainly cheaper and easier than rewiring with fuses, relays etc. Of course if the starter solenoid is clicking but not turning the engine, then the immobiliser must be supplying the correct voltage and you have a starter motor/battery/wiring circuit fault.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
All I can say is that since I fitted a relay etc, about 18 months ago, I have had no starting problems, so for whatever reason, it worked for me.If it's not clicking, first ensure you have a good battery, then check the starter relay on the fuse board in the boot. Can you hear/feel this clicking when the starter button is pressed? If you can't, chances are the immobiliser is not supplying this relay the full 12volts.
The starter solenoid is energised from this relay on the fuse panel, which in turn is operated via a white/red tracer wire when pressing the starter button. The immobiliser is in this line, acting like an off/on switch preventing the starter button energising the relay in the boot, until the key fob is pressed.
A few years ago, many people found that their car would only start after holding the start switch down for minutes on end. On this forum, it became known as the "long push" fault. Remedies ranged from winding windows down then up, locking and unlocking doors and, sadly, in not a few cases, chanting various mantras! I had this fault on my car in 2006 and traced it to the immobiliser. 12volts went in to it on the white/red trace wire from the starter button, but an internal fault meant that even after the fob was pressed, only about 4 volts came out. The boot relay needed at least 5 or 6 volts to operate it.
The long push was because the faulty immobiliser electronics very slowly raised the output voltage until it eventually fired the relay, starting the engine.
My solution was to use a scotchlok to connect the two white/red trace wires together at the immobiliser plug and it's been perfect for the last 5 years, certainly cheaper and easier than rewiring with fuses, relays etc. Of course if the starter solenoid is clicking but not turning the engine, then the immobiliser must be supplying the correct voltage and you have a starter motor/battery/wiring circuit fault.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hi Crazy,
really pleased your method worked for you, I have just re-read my post,it does sound a bit "lecturey" - sorry! I just wanted to add to the volume of info to provide alternatives to other owners who may be searching this forum because of this problem.
Maybe it's my upbringing by my thrifty Yorkshire gran that so impressed me by my 10p scotchlok cure!
Happy motoring,
Mulsanne
really pleased your method worked for you, I have just re-read my post,it does sound a bit "lecturey" - sorry! I just wanted to add to the volume of info to provide alternatives to other owners who may be searching this forum because of this problem.
Maybe it's my upbringing by my thrifty Yorkshire gran that so impressed me by my 10p scotchlok cure!
Happy motoring,
Mulsanne
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