3200 Buyers guide - What have I missed?
Discussion
While I am still waiting for my back issue of Evo with it’s Maserati 3200 buyers guide I have trawled the internet and put my own one together. Can people let me know if I have missed anything:
· FSH – From either a specialist or Maserati themselves not Johnny with a spanner.
· Make sure the recalls have been done (ABS software, Brake fluid hoses, Steering rack)
· That it has a red key
· Make sure it has had a recent cam belt change
· Be aware that the rear chains need changing at 68K which is a fairly serious (expensive) job
· Check for crankshaft end float problems. Either by getting vibration on the crank shaft pulley measured, getting the oil pressure measured properly (the actual oil pressure gauge isn’t known for being that good) or check that the car has had the crankshaft modified. (This is manuals only really apparently)
· Make sure you start the engine after the engine check light has gone out
· Check the exhaust as the back boxes rot out after two years. Long term you really want an after market stainless steel one fitted (~£800)
· Check the brake condition as new pads and disks are well into a four figure sum.
· Use Selenia oil. Nothing else(?)
· Check the throttle body electonics as they can get melted by the heat of the mainfold due to their postion in the engine bay (Shows itself as an irratic idle when warm)
Also who should I be using to get an independent inspection done. I’m assuming the RAC and the AA are not a good idea.
Thanks
· FSH – From either a specialist or Maserati themselves not Johnny with a spanner.
· Make sure the recalls have been done (ABS software, Brake fluid hoses, Steering rack)
· That it has a red key
· Make sure it has had a recent cam belt change
· Be aware that the rear chains need changing at 68K which is a fairly serious (expensive) job
· Check for crankshaft end float problems. Either by getting vibration on the crank shaft pulley measured, getting the oil pressure measured properly (the actual oil pressure gauge isn’t known for being that good) or check that the car has had the crankshaft modified. (This is manuals only really apparently)
· Make sure you start the engine after the engine check light has gone out
· Check the exhaust as the back boxes rot out after two years. Long term you really want an after market stainless steel one fitted (~£800)
· Check the brake condition as new pads and disks are well into a four figure sum.
· Use Selenia oil. Nothing else(?)
· Check the throttle body electonics as they can get melted by the heat of the mainfold due to their postion in the engine bay (Shows itself as an irratic idle when warm)
Also who should I be using to get an independent inspection done. I’m assuming the RAC and the AA are not a good idea.
Thanks
Edited by (steven) on Saturday 3rd May 09:42
Go here http://www.maseratiforum.co.uk/default.asp to have all your questions answered.
Not a bad list.
I would add the following:
1) check for the beginnings of rust (or bubbling) in obvious places such as joins, wheel arches, etc.
2) give the car a good test drive to see if there is any intermittent CEL problem.
3) check that the headlights and all other lights work. A panel needs to come off to fix a headlamp so it's not that straightforward.
4) check electrical/switchgear items such as the aircon, boot solenoid and petrol cap release.
Good luck. If I were buying again (and I'm tempted), I would go for a low mileage example. The prices are very reasonable these days, so I reckon the extra paid would be money well spent.
I would add the following:
1) check for the beginnings of rust (or bubbling) in obvious places such as joins, wheel arches, etc.
2) give the car a good test drive to see if there is any intermittent CEL problem.
3) check that the headlights and all other lights work. A panel needs to come off to fix a headlamp so it's not that straightforward.
4) check electrical/switchgear items such as the aircon, boot solenoid and petrol cap release.
Good luck. If I were buying again (and I'm tempted), I would go for a low mileage example. The prices are very reasonable these days, so I reckon the extra paid would be money well spent.
i would second the rust bit. Look around boot area too (inside boot lid). Think 3200 were galvanised but maybe not so much if made on a friday afternoon.
As to the oil, i dont think selenia was ever used on mine - by maranello or stratstone...so there must be a lot of cars which havent used that oil
As to the oil, i dont think selenia was ever used on mine - by maranello or stratstone...so there must be a lot of cars which havent used that oil
Just make sure you have deep pockets also, mine was all sweetness and light for 18 months, then in the last 7 months it has cost me £7k's to keep on the road, as when it does go wrong it does get expensive, even buying from the likes of Eurospares (who even quoted me more than the main dealer for a certain part.) I've had the throttle body, rear boxes, a turbo coming loose, rear disks and pads etc. to ratchet up the running costs of late. But hey, when they run well they are absolutely fantastic and there is nothing quite like it, hence mine is still here. 
"Make sure the recalls have been done (ABS software, Brake fluid hoses, Steering rack)"
If the recalls haven't been done, the new Owner is entitled to have them done and FOC
"Make sure it has had a recent cam belt change"
Recent is irrelevant as the cost is just £350 - Just make sure they have always been done on time or within mileage.
"Be aware that the rear chains need changing at 68K which is a fairly serious (expensive) job"
Just factor in approx £1,200 but be absolutely sure you get it done by Grimaldi Engineering or someone of Rob's calibre as the consequent valve timing cannot be accurately set using scribe or paint marks. Even Main Dealer muppets have known to do this on occassions.
"Check for crankshaft end float problems. Either by getting vibration on the crank shaft pulley measured, getting the oil pressure measured properly (the actual oil pressure gauge isn’t known for being that good) or check that the car has had the crankshaft modified. (This is manuals only really apparently)"
The problem is known to affect 80% of manuals but also 20% of autos, there is no crankshaft modification and is thought to result from incorrect oil grade coupled with abuse. If caught early enough, there will be no crank damage but will require an engine rebuild using standard parts.
"Check the brake condition as new pads and disks are well into a four figure sum."
Er, No. Brakes are Brembo with Disks circa £135 each and pads approx £175 per axle - current prices are for genuine OEM parts courtesy of Eurospares
"Use Selenia oil. Nothing else(?)"
Use only Selenia RACING 10W60 or equivalent . Rob Grimaldi stocks AGIP Racing with the correct spec - Do NOT under any circumstances use anything else. If dealers are using different grades please report here and this is likely part of the cause of endfloat probs. The engines are turbocharged and therefore need the precise spec that they were developed with.
"Check the throttle body electonics as they can get melted by the heat of the mainfold due to their postion in the engine bay (Shows itself as an irratic idle when warm)"
Do check the TB as well all other electronics by all means but 'melted by heat due to position' is complete cobblers.
hope this helps
If the recalls haven't been done, the new Owner is entitled to have them done and FOC
"Make sure it has had a recent cam belt change"
Recent is irrelevant as the cost is just £350 - Just make sure they have always been done on time or within mileage.
"Be aware that the rear chains need changing at 68K which is a fairly serious (expensive) job"
Just factor in approx £1,200 but be absolutely sure you get it done by Grimaldi Engineering or someone of Rob's calibre as the consequent valve timing cannot be accurately set using scribe or paint marks. Even Main Dealer muppets have known to do this on occassions.
"Check for crankshaft end float problems. Either by getting vibration on the crank shaft pulley measured, getting the oil pressure measured properly (the actual oil pressure gauge isn’t known for being that good) or check that the car has had the crankshaft modified. (This is manuals only really apparently)"
The problem is known to affect 80% of manuals but also 20% of autos, there is no crankshaft modification and is thought to result from incorrect oil grade coupled with abuse. If caught early enough, there will be no crank damage but will require an engine rebuild using standard parts.
"Check the brake condition as new pads and disks are well into a four figure sum."
Er, No. Brakes are Brembo with Disks circa £135 each and pads approx £175 per axle - current prices are for genuine OEM parts courtesy of Eurospares
"Use Selenia oil. Nothing else(?)"
Use only Selenia RACING 10W60 or equivalent . Rob Grimaldi stocks AGIP Racing with the correct spec - Do NOT under any circumstances use anything else. If dealers are using different grades please report here and this is likely part of the cause of endfloat probs. The engines are turbocharged and therefore need the precise spec that they were developed with.
"Check the throttle body electonics as they can get melted by the heat of the mainfold due to their postion in the engine bay (Shows itself as an irratic idle when warm)"
Do check the TB as well all other electronics by all means but 'melted by heat due to position' is complete cobblers.
hope this helps
Edited by Nigelo on Saturday 17th May 10:10
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