My New steed!!!'
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Discussion

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Will sort pics asap but after much searching and consideration and of course, all the invaluable help on these forums I finally purchased my car.
Unbeknown to me a friends brother had a 355 GTS in red/crema with just 18,500 miles and fully documented. It's drives with no sqweeks or rattles and actually is pretty quiet untill u get into the higher rev range. The engine feels nice and tight and part of the deal is full cam service before delivery.
Many tks for all the tips and help and any further advice going forward would be massively helpfull still such as how do I stop the battery going flat over periods of inactivity etc tks all

matc

4,738 posts

238 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Congrats, we obviously need pics asap!

You need a battery conditioner to keep it full, I had a CTEK one with my 360 and that seemed to work fine.

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
does it connect easily enough on the 355 thou??

Jonty355

4,423 posts

244 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
bridey0 said:
how do I stop the battery going flat over periods of inactivity etc tks all
Drive it!!!

Seriously, its the best option. If you're worried about milage it doesn't have to be far, but I try to use my 355 Spider at least once a week, even if its just popping to the shops. When I first got it, there had been little milage put on it from the previous 3 years due to irregular use. I was guilty of the same thing myself when I first got it, as I didn't store the car at mine, and I seemed to have lots of problems with the car.

When I started using it on a more regular basis after moving house and getting a garage, its been problem free ever since! Its the best way to go for all the components. The gearbox always feels a lot slicker earlier on too!

Congratulations on the purchase though! You've made the right choice going for a 355! They're wonderful cars, and they dont depreciate either, in fact they seem to be doing the opposite lately!

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Hio Jonty yes i think your right and that was one of my reasons for purchase. The 360 i also like but im a bit of a classic fan on the QT. is there a kill switch under the bonnet that will stop the alarm draining the battery and kill the car completely for storage ??

Jonty355

4,423 posts

244 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
bridey0 said:
Hio Jonty yes i think your right and that was one of my reasons for purchase. The 360 i also like but im a bit of a classic fan on the QT. is there a kill switch under the bonnet that will stop the alarm draining the battery and kill the car completely for storage ??
Yeah its under the front boot hatch over the off side wheel. Lift the boot up, and then there is a panen with a turn switch. Should be marked up as to which way to turn it.

Be careful with that though as it can void your insurance if stolen and has a tracker on it.

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
It"ll be in a garage when turned off. i figured this was the way to ensure battery life! how easy is trickle charger to fit given battery is behind rear wheel?

Mario149

7,789 posts

209 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Jonty355 said:
The gearbox always feels a lot slicker earlier on too!
Try Red Line gearbox oil, it's a revelation, seriously

Mario149

7,789 posts

209 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
If you've had the kill switch off, when you turn it back on, you need to turn the key to position one and leave for a few mins for it to go through all it's checks and gubbins. Then start the car and let it idle for about 5 mins or so so it can relearn stuff


neil-f

1,647 posts

238 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Batt is not behind the rear wheel IIRC itis in the NSF wheel arch.
You have a connection point under the bonnet for charger or you could hard wire in a connection.

Jonty355

4,423 posts

244 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Mario149 said:
Jonty355 said:
The gearbox always feels a lot slicker earlier on too!
Try Red Line gearbox oil, it's a revelation, seriously
That may be whats in it then.

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
Tks also I need to know how to check oil and what oil to use. Bear in mind I'm used to checking oil on a dry sump 993 911

Mario149

7,789 posts

209 months

Friday 6th May 2011
quotequote all
bridey0 said:
Tks also I need to know how to check oil and what oil to use. Bear in mind I'm used to checking oil on a dry sump 993 911
fully synthetic 10W 40 if memory serves, and to check the oil, drive the car, get it fully warmed up, then pop the bonnet while still running, fish out the dipstick, give it a wipe, put it back in, fish it out and have a look. You'll need gloves or a cloth to undo the oil tank filler cap btw, it gets roasting hot and I've left flesh on it before...ouchy. dipstick is ttached to the filler cap btw....

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Saturday 7th May 2011
quotequote all
Tks Mario, I've got mobil 10W 40 but shud I use Agip instead?? Also best treatment for the leather?? U tend to let car warm up for a few minutes before using??

Mario149

7,789 posts

209 months

Saturday 7th May 2011
quotequote all
bridey0 said:
Tks Mario, I've got mobil 10W 40 but shud I use Agip instead?? Also best treatment for the leather?? U tend to let car warm up for a few minutes before using??
Honestly, I'm not sure it matters, but then I suspect someone more knowledgeable about oil will chip in shortly. You're not going to go far wrong with Agip given that's what it says to use in the engine bay, but equally, that was 15 years ago and oils (should) have advanced. Rardley Motors told me to put Shell Helix in when I rang up before last summer as that's what they had been using. Not sure what my mechanic put in this time, will have to check, think it was Mobil 1.

Leather I'm not sure about, I just use a cleaner/nourisher I bought from Halfords.

As for warming up, no normally I don't. I just get in and drive like a granny until things start to warm up. If you don't have redline gearbox oil in, it'll be a few mins before you can use second.

That said, at the moment my car appears to have just started idling/running funny below 2k rpm when it's cold and running open loop, so right now i let it stand for a few mins, generally until the emissions air pump thingy switches off, before setting off

tony h

2,703 posts

277 months

Saturday 7th May 2011
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from memory my old spider would fine left for 3-4 weeks undriven , but a batt conditioner is way fwd if leaving any longer

AndrewW-G

11,968 posts

248 months

Saturday 7th May 2011
quotequote all
bridey0 said:
Tks Mario, I've got mobil 10W 40 but shud I use Agip instead?? Also best treatment for the leather?? U tend to let car warm up for a few minutes before using??
Mobil, Agip, Shell, their all good as long as you get the correct grade smile

For the leather, you can’t beat these people http://www.croftgate.co.uk/cgi-bin/store/CROstore.... if you are using a nourishing leather oil type product, it sometimes helps to put it on and then wrap the seat in cling film for an hour or two, so that the treatment soaks in and doesn’t just evaporate

johnnyreggae

3,171 posts

191 months

Saturday 7th May 2011
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Wouldn't much of this be in the handbook - can it be downloaded for OP to read before delivery ?

bridey0

Original Poster:

2,961 posts

216 months

Saturday 7th May 2011
quotequote all
Super many tks. I'll ask what oils been used last but I suspected mobil would be Good and I use that in my 911 aircooled already