Throttle position sensor

[turbojay555]

Hi all,

Hope somebody can help me as i am having problems with tracking down a throttle position sensor for a peugeot 406 sri 2.2 on a x plate.

I'm trying to avoid dealer costs of £180 and hoping to source a second hand part. The problem i'm having is finding the correct part number for this item. Does anybody know how pug part numbers work because the tps has 4 lines of very faint numbers on it, but not sure which 1 is the correct number.
The numbers go like this -:

14108 - 1
96 433 656 80
445 821 001 002
pps - 5

I tracked 1 down with the same number as the second line but it was off a 2.0 Diesel hdi. I'm guessing that the diesel wont be compatible with the petrol.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks

Jay.

[davepoth]

Third number also tallies back to a diesel TPS. I'm thinking it might be the same unit.

[turbojay555]

chers dave,

I was starting to think they were the same, but with the different rev band between petrols and diesels i thought they would'nt be the same.
There are loads of diesel units for sale for £20+ so it would be nice.
cheers for help.

[davepoth]

It only senses open to closed, so there isn't any reason why they would be different. For £20 I'd take a punt.

[rev-erend]

The all just give a voltage - 0 ~ 5 volts.

[annodomini2]

TPS's usually provide 2 or 3 signals for redundancy using different mechanisms.

e.g. Potentiometer, Optical encoded position sensor, hall effect sensors.

Typically though they are the same part between models (including petrol and diesel), but that isn't always the case, due to different engine management suppliers.

[turbojay555]

Cheers for the info guys,
Just bought 1 off eBay off a diesel with all the same numbers except the top line, will fit it when I get home from work.
For £20 its worth a try. Will post the results.
Cheers
Jay.

UPDATE -: Fitted part to car and its running well, apart from engine light still being on.
many thanks

Edited by turbojay555 on Thursday 28th July 20:43

[Kitchski]

Try disconnecting the battery for 15mins at least to allow the ECU to do a surface reset. This doesn't work on all cars, but if the engine's run 3 seperate times or more with the lamp still illuminated then a minor reset often relaxes the ECU's 'state of mind!'

If it doesn't work, a simple OBD II scanner from eBay will reset the codes for you.

[turbojay555]

Kitchski said:

Try disconnecting the battery for 15mins at least to allow the ECU to do a surface reset. This doesn't work on all cars, but if the engine's run 3 seperate times or more with the lamp still illuminated then a minor reset often relaxes the ECU's 'state of mind!'

If it doesn't work, a simple OBD II scanner from eBay will reset the codes for you.

Will give that a try at weekend if light is still on.

[Kitchski]

turbojay555 said:

Will give that a try at weekend if light is still on.

You might find it goes out by itself after a while. I read the other day there are some GM ECU's that will aknowledge that a fault is no longer present and remove the lamp, if the car is started 40 seperate times and no code is registered!

Might be quicker to buy the £20 OBD II scanner

[annodomini2]

Kitchski said:

You might find it goes out by itself after a while. I read the other day there are some GM ECU's that will aknowledge that a fault is no longer present and remove the lamp, if the car is started 40 seperate times and no code is registered!

Might be quicker to buy the £20 OBD II scanner

Most engine management will clear a fault after x drive cycles (usually 10) (you can't just turn it on/off, or just on-start-stop-off) they need to see the vehicle speed go above some threshold usually.

[turbojay555]

Engine light went off on 3rd run out and car is now running well, As well as a peugeot can run i suppose.