Rv8 Stromberg Automatic choke
Discussion
Just put stromebergs on the v8 in my rr bobtail and having some issues with the auto choke as dont think its working correctly.
Its the big blue box sort thats on the passenger side carb.
I have connected up the water pipes ok, but do these actiavte it, as I noticed there are also 2 electrical connection pins. Are these neccesary and what should connect to them??
I;ve tried to clean it all as best I can as thought it may just be bunged up with dirt.
Atm if I dry all the plugs she'll start ok, and run fluffy until warm. It runs fine then but does smell rich... but then if I try and start again, it just splutters but wont actually start, and it floods the engine, reaks of fuel and the plugs get wet, like the choke is stuck on.
any help much appreciated, ta!!
Its the big blue box sort thats on the passenger side carb.
I have connected up the water pipes ok, but do these actiavte it, as I noticed there are also 2 electrical connection pins. Are these neccesary and what should connect to them??
I;ve tried to clean it all as best I can as thought it may just be bunged up with dirt.
Atm if I dry all the plugs she'll start ok, and run fluffy until warm. It runs fine then but does smell rich... but then if I try and start again, it just splutters but wont actually start, and it floods the engine, reaks of fuel and the plugs get wet, like the choke is stuck on.
any help much appreciated, ta!!
Like Chassis 33 I've always got rid of auto chokes.
I'd go further though - get rid of the Strombergs!
I can't remember ever seeing a Stromberg with an auto choke but would guess that the water was the way they worked.
As in - when the water got hot a bi-metal strip closed/opened some part of the carb to stop the choke effect. So I'd suggest checking the part where the water pipes connect to.
The other thing to check, from your description of the problem, is the rubber diaphrams (sp) even if they look good they can have pin prick holes which would cause the problems you describe.
skeggysteve said:
Like Chassis 33 I've always got rid of auto chokes.
I'd go further though - get rid of the Strombergs!
I was trying to be polite I'd go further though - get rid of the Strombergs!
However I've looked though my SD1 factory manual. The wiring diagram seems to be the "FASD" unit gets a signal from its control unit into one terminal and the other is straight to ground. The FASD control unit receives power from the ignition switch and has an input from the coil so presumably is a frequency voltage converter of some sort?
Rimmer Bros list two control modules one £6 the other £40, not sure of the difference maybe one is Stromberg one SU??? Anyways here's the links, hopefully the part numbers can help some more?
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ADU7718
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-DRC8039
Regards
Iain
Again I don't know how these work but would guess that the system works using a bi-metal spring.
In a basic system a current is passed through a heater wire from the ignition so over time the choke goes off. With this system you would still get choke on a hot start.
If you then added a water passage the hot water would hold the choke open for a hot start.
So your system may need an ignition feed otherwise the choke will just remain on...even the hot water may not be enough on its own to hold the choke off.
Steve
In a basic system a current is passed through a heater wire from the ignition so over time the choke goes off. With this system you would still get choke on a hot start.
If you then added a water passage the hot water would hold the choke open for a hot start.
So your system may need an ignition feed otherwise the choke will just remain on...even the hot water may not be enough on its own to hold the choke off.
Steve
thanks for the help guys, will try wiring up as suggested.
If its still not working though, think I'll just get some su's with a manual choke when I get payed, they just make much more sense to me.
I just stuck the strombergs on as they where cheap. I bought the car not running and didnt want to spend a lot on some nice carbs if I then found the bottom end knocked or the clutch was gone etc once I started her up. The good news is it sounds sweet, so just fettling now !!
If its still not working though, think I'll just get some su's with a manual choke when I get payed, they just make much more sense to me.
I just stuck the strombergs on as they where cheap. I bought the car not running and didnt want to spend a lot on some nice carbs if I then found the bottom end knocked or the clutch was gone etc once I started her up. The good news is it sounds sweet, so just fettling now !!
Hi guys, tried an ignition feed off the coil as suggested, but then she just refuses to start, as it seems to take all the power that should be going to the dizzy. Or have I misenturperated this, and should I be taking a feed from the ign. somewhere else in the loom.
Also partly related, I stripped and cleaned the carbs last night...bowls full of crap which probably didnt help, then when I put them back on it wouldnt start and had no spark. After much head scratching and searching I found the metal part of the rotor arm had fallen off!! Never heard of this before, but first time for everything I guess. Luckily had a spare lying around
Also partly related, I stripped and cleaned the carbs last night...bowls full of crap which probably didnt help, then when I put them back on it wouldnt start and had no spark. After much head scratching and searching I found the metal part of the rotor arm had fallen off!! Never heard of this before, but first time for everything I guess. Luckily had a spare lying around
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