MG ZR VVC Head Gasket
Discussion
Hey guys, this is my first post so i apologise if this question has been answered before.
I've just bought a 2001 MG ZR 160 with 75k on the clock which is in need of the dreaded HGF repair in the not too distant future. The problem i have is that i cant afford to get it done just yet and would like to know if continued driving (with constant coolant checks) is likely to make it un-repairable. I only ask as i need to drive 50 motorway miles a day to work and back. I've been told that the head has been done in the past and there are visible signs of this but i have no proof
Can anyone help???
Many thanks
Chris
I've just bought a 2001 MG ZR 160 with 75k on the clock which is in need of the dreaded HGF repair in the not too distant future. The problem i have is that i cant afford to get it done just yet and would like to know if continued driving (with constant coolant checks) is likely to make it un-repairable. I only ask as i need to drive 50 motorway miles a day to work and back. I've been told that the head has been done in the past and there are visible signs of this but i have no proof
Can anyone help???
Many thanks
Chris
Being very optimistic, it's just possible that these are remnants from the previous failure. It's quite a job to get the cooling system completely clean after a bad HGF, and it's fairly common to a little oil in the coolant after changing the gasket. A lazy person might not have made a great job of cleaning the cam cover out either - it's not the most pleasant of jobs.
If you have the time it could be worth flushing the cooling system and cleaning out the cam cover - if it does come back at least you'll be pretty much certain that the head gasket is dying. This is assuming you don't have a sump full of mayonnaise?
Repeat failures after a head gasket change are most often caused by lack of care when fitting. It's possible the engine overheated badly before and the soft head now won't hold a gasket, or the liner heights are low or uneven. If you are paying someone else to do this job, then it's well worth finding someone who knows what they are doing, otherwise another repeat failure could be on the cards.
If you have the time it could be worth flushing the cooling system and cleaning out the cam cover - if it does come back at least you'll be pretty much certain that the head gasket is dying. This is assuming you don't have a sump full of mayonnaise?
Repeat failures after a head gasket change are most often caused by lack of care when fitting. It's possible the engine overheated badly before and the soft head now won't hold a gasket, or the liner heights are low or uneven. If you are paying someone else to do this job, then it's well worth finding someone who knows what they are doing, otherwise another repeat failure could be on the cards.
There are a multitude of reasons why a K-series suffers HGF. Sometimes it can be a combo of more than one. But one of the reasons is that the cooling system is designed to be compact, so they take very little coolant (another way to save weight - the K-series was all about weight saving). Because they take so little, if the level drops even the slightest bit too low it can cause havoc. It's very sensitive to coolant level so for that reason I wouldn't keep driving it.
When you do get it done, there are a number of areas to check and tests to run to make sure your engine is worth repairing. Most are, but many aren't checked and fail fairly quickly post-gasket replacement because the liners have dropped, or the thermostat pipe is blocked or someone has skimmed the head too much in the past (they're sensitive to that too).
And I don't normally recommend main stealers, but in this instance if the car is a keeper, bite the bullet, go to the local X-parts dealer and buy the genuine headset with MLS gasket, saver shim and oil control rail. You won't look back.
I'd offer to quote you at our place as I'm pretty well learned in the world of the K, but we're in South Hampshire - might not be too local.
When you do get it done, there are a number of areas to check and tests to run to make sure your engine is worth repairing. Most are, but many aren't checked and fail fairly quickly post-gasket replacement because the liners have dropped, or the thermostat pipe is blocked or someone has skimmed the head too much in the past (they're sensitive to that too).
And I don't normally recommend main stealers, but in this instance if the car is a keeper, bite the bullet, go to the local X-parts dealer and buy the genuine headset with MLS gasket, saver shim and oil control rail. You won't look back.
I'd offer to quote you at our place as I'm pretty well learned in the world of the K, but we're in South Hampshire - might not be too local.
Many thanks for the advice guys. I have done an oil dip from cold and there is no mayo on the stick but it does appear when hot. Also, the coolant does drop after 20 mile journeys so i think it is on the way out. I think i may try an oil service and coolant clean out before i resign myself to the HGF fault. If necessary, is it better to replace the head completely or get the current one skimmed and what's the difference in cost? I'd be interested to know how much the complete job would cost as i paid £500 for the HGF complete on my 1.4 K series back in Jan 2011.
I'm sorry but you have a definite head gasket problem ,no amount of oil changes etc are going to cure it ,if you keep running it you stand a big chance of wanting more than a head gskt renewal i.e. a complete rebuild ,get it sorted with the latest spec gskt and bolts by some one who knows that engine, it will be cheaper in the long run.
Certainly sounds like the head gasket needs changing ASAP.
You shouldn't skim K series heads unless absolutely required, though it may have already been done. Until the head is off it is impossible to say if the head is ok to reuse or not; if there are deep indentations around the combustion chamber where the head clamps onto the liners that is usually a sign of serious overheating, and the head should be tested for hardness. Skimming and a head saver shim may salvage it if it is still hard enough.
The VVC is only a little more complex to take apart and reassemble, so labour times shouldn't be much higher than the standard engine, and the parts are the same. You might want to budget for timing belt,tensioners and water pump if it wasn't done last time though.
You shouldn't skim K series heads unless absolutely required, though it may have already been done. Until the head is off it is impossible to say if the head is ok to reuse or not; if there are deep indentations around the combustion chamber where the head clamps onto the liners that is usually a sign of serious overheating, and the head should be tested for hardness. Skimming and a head saver shim may salvage it if it is still hard enough.
The VVC is only a little more complex to take apart and reassemble, so labour times shouldn't be much higher than the standard engine, and the parts are the same. You might want to budget for timing belt,tensioners and water pump if it wasn't done last time though.
Edited by Mr2Mike on Friday 30th September 09:44
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