Replacing Oil Cooler - Prime before restart? (and other q's)
Discussion
Hi,
I'm going to fit a new oil cooler to my car (Mitsi Evo 8) at the weekend and whilst the mounting and pipework is all very straight forward, I'm not clear on two points which I hoped someone on here could assist with:
1. Will the new cooler need to be primed with oil? (I.e. I could connect the lower hose and syphon some engine oil into the new cooler to fill it, prior to restarting the car.)
2. Will the new cooler need to be bled? (I.e. would I need to crack the seal slightly to let air out of the system once the engine is running?)
3. Will the car need to be filled to "Max" on the dipstick, or higher than that?
I guess I may be able to work some things out myself, if I remove the old cooler and nothing comes out then presume that the cooler won't need priming (i.e. if the old one was empty when it came off, then the new one can go on empty).
Can anyone shed some light on this? Changing a cooler should be pretty simple stuff, but not having done it before I wanted to check that the oil flow will be ok, as I don't want to trash the engine on the restart!
Cheers.
I'm going to fit a new oil cooler to my car (Mitsi Evo 8) at the weekend and whilst the mounting and pipework is all very straight forward, I'm not clear on two points which I hoped someone on here could assist with:
1. Will the new cooler need to be primed with oil? (I.e. I could connect the lower hose and syphon some engine oil into the new cooler to fill it, prior to restarting the car.)
2. Will the new cooler need to be bled? (I.e. would I need to crack the seal slightly to let air out of the system once the engine is running?)
3. Will the car need to be filled to "Max" on the dipstick, or higher than that?
I guess I may be able to work some things out myself, if I remove the old cooler and nothing comes out then presume that the cooler won't need priming (i.e. if the old one was empty when it came off, then the new one can go on empty).
Can anyone shed some light on this? Changing a cooler should be pretty simple stuff, but not having done it before I wanted to check that the oil flow will be ok, as I don't want to trash the engine on the restart!
Cheers.
nsi said:
Hi,
I'm going to fit a new oil cooler to my car (Mitsi Evo 8) at the weekend and whilst the mounting and pipework is all very straight forward, I'm not clear on two points which I hoped someone on here could assist with:
1. Will the new cooler need to be primed with oil? (I.e. I could connect the lower hose and syphon some engine oil into the new cooler to fill it, prior to restarting the car.)
2. Will the new cooler need to be bled? (I.e. would I need to crack the seal slightly to let air out of the system once the engine is running?)
3. Will the car need to be filled to "Max" on the dipstick, or higher than that?
I guess I may be able to work some things out myself, if I remove the old cooler and nothing comes out then presume that the cooler won't need priming (i.e. if the old one was empty when it came off, then the new one can go on empty).
Can anyone shed some light on this? Changing a cooler should be pretty simple stuff, but not having done it before I wanted to check that the oil flow will be ok, as I don't want to trash the engine on the restart!
Cheers.
1. No.I'm going to fit a new oil cooler to my car (Mitsi Evo 8) at the weekend and whilst the mounting and pipework is all very straight forward, I'm not clear on two points which I hoped someone on here could assist with:
1. Will the new cooler need to be primed with oil? (I.e. I could connect the lower hose and syphon some engine oil into the new cooler to fill it, prior to restarting the car.)
2. Will the new cooler need to be bled? (I.e. would I need to crack the seal slightly to let air out of the system once the engine is running?)
3. Will the car need to be filled to "Max" on the dipstick, or higher than that?
I guess I may be able to work some things out myself, if I remove the old cooler and nothing comes out then presume that the cooler won't need priming (i.e. if the old one was empty when it came off, then the new one can go on empty).
Can anyone shed some light on this? Changing a cooler should be pretty simple stuff, but not having done it before I wanted to check that the oil flow will be ok, as I don't want to trash the engine on the restart!
Cheers.
2. No.
3. Fill to the max then add about .5 litre more.
When you've fitted it run the engine for a minute, then shut it down, check oil and top up if necessary.
It's better to ask first, but it's not as complex as you think.
Quick bump for a reassurance:
I changed the cooler today, but have not yet restarted the car. When the old cooler came off, we drained it into a tub and estimate that it was probably full or nearly full. I didn't think it was, based on the weight of it, but having drained a fair bit of oil from it, I reckon it probably was full.
So the old one was full, the new one is of course empty... are we sure I don't need to prime it before starting the car?
I changed the cooler today, but have not yet restarted the car. When the old cooler came off, we drained it into a tub and estimate that it was probably full or nearly full. I didn't think it was, based on the weight of it, but having drained a fair bit of oil from it, I reckon it probably was full.
So the old one was full, the new one is of course empty... are we sure I don't need to prime it before starting the car?
lgw said:
PaulKemp said:
Just for a bit of insurance I crank the engine with coilpack disconnected to get pressure on the guage.
With a thermostatic takeoff plate I fill the oilcooler and check sump oil level once I have got it all hot.
Just puts my mind at rest
The above is very good practice With a thermostatic takeoff plate I fill the oilcooler and check sump oil level once I have got it all hot.
Just puts my mind at rest
But what's the other bit about?
Thermostatic takeoff plate does not flow oil through the cooler until oil hits 88 degrees therefore the oil or lack of it in the cooler will not hit the engine till its hot.
I fill the cooler and the pipes as best I can.
Spin up the engine on the starter with coil disconnected, the reconnect and run engine till hot, keeping an eye on the oil pressure, if it dips to far I switch off, usually the oil flows when hot, pushes out any air and stays in the cooler and pipes, the thermostat holds oil in the cooler and pipes when cool.
Because the cooler holds oil from the sump, once the level has settled check fill to max level. Once you have cycled the engine to working temp a couple of times the oil level in the sump should be correct.
I fill the cooler and the pipes as best I can.
Spin up the engine on the starter with coil disconnected, the reconnect and run engine till hot, keeping an eye on the oil pressure, if it dips to far I switch off, usually the oil flows when hot, pushes out any air and stays in the cooler and pipes, the thermostat holds oil in the cooler and pipes when cool.
Because the cooler holds oil from the sump, once the level has settled check fill to max level. Once you have cycled the engine to working temp a couple of times the oil level in the sump should be correct.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff