Rover 75 cdt wont start after pulling and replacing all fuse
Discussion
Something is draining the battery in my Rover 75,as part of the ,well i thought,diagnosis i disconnected neg. terminal on battery and put test bulb on neg terminal to earth on the body,the lamp stays lit!So as someone suggested thi sproves something is draining my battery.My next bright idea was while my mate staring at the test light i pulled all the fuses one by one to see if any of them knocked the light out,none did?
So defeated i done what i had done a million times in the last couple of years,got a charged battery from my mate to get me going,car just turns over and wont fire like it's not getting fuel??What in the hell!!!Can't believe this,anyone any ideas?Cheers!
So defeated i done what i had done a million times in the last couple of years,got a charged battery from my mate to get me going,car just turns over and wont fire like it's not getting fuel??What in the hell!!!Can't believe this,anyone any ideas?Cheers!
Brand new Bosch battery three days ago,it's dead!!:-)I'v erun th ecar the last couple of days with teh cenral locking ,electric mirror and electric seat fuses pulled to see if that would make a difference,i thought it was but today battery is dead.Car is just turning over like its not getting fuel.someone says there might be a fuel cut off switch or something needs pressed?
Jakg said:
Theres an intetia switch under the glovebox (on the chassis to the left down from the A-Post) but it sets off the hazards too.
Could your glowplugs always be on causing battery drain (something I've heard of before)
Somebody mention the glowplug module to me before,i'll get round to that if my car ever starts again lol.Can't believe pulling and replacing fuses will make a car not start,not my day!Could your glowplugs always be on causing battery drain (something I've heard of before)
Glow plugs run on a fuse though, and if they were staying on, they would drain the battery completely within 4 hours max., probably more like 2 hours.
I have heard of faulty alternators causing a current draw, if you have removed all the fuses then this could be a cuplrit. You could remove the connections from the alternator and see if that stops the test light coming on.
I guess the starter motor could potentially do the same too, and don't think it is on a fuse either.
However, the fact the lamp lights up might not indicate an abnormal current drain, it might be that the canbus is not liking the resistance of the bulb being in the circuit, this would make trouble shooting harder though. You should try a multimeter instead, below about 50ma is fine (0.05A), you should use the high current setting and ports on the multimeter though, as the spike from the ECU etc. when connecting could well blow the multimeter fuse on the normalsetting (low current).
Are you sure you only have one fusebox though, as my ZS has two, one in the car for most circuits, and one under the bonnet with the big current fuses and relays in it.
As for not starting, well this is a mystery, have you tried re-synching the key fob, on mine you need to press the lock button four times, but the 75 uses a different alarm/immobiliser so is probably different.Also when moving the battery connections, one of the cables hasn't broken has it, this could explain why it wouldn't start initially, it might be corroded and frayed, and swapping the battery might have finsihed it off.
I have heard of faulty alternators causing a current draw, if you have removed all the fuses then this could be a cuplrit. You could remove the connections from the alternator and see if that stops the test light coming on.
I guess the starter motor could potentially do the same too, and don't think it is on a fuse either.
However, the fact the lamp lights up might not indicate an abnormal current drain, it might be that the canbus is not liking the resistance of the bulb being in the circuit, this would make trouble shooting harder though. You should try a multimeter instead, below about 50ma is fine (0.05A), you should use the high current setting and ports on the multimeter though, as the spike from the ECU etc. when connecting could well blow the multimeter fuse on the normalsetting (low current).
Are you sure you only have one fusebox though, as my ZS has two, one in the car for most circuits, and one under the bonnet with the big current fuses and relays in it.
As for not starting, well this is a mystery, have you tried re-synching the key fob, on mine you need to press the lock button four times, but the 75 uses a different alarm/immobiliser so is probably different.Also when moving the battery connections, one of the cables hasn't broken has it, this could explain why it wouldn't start initially, it might be corroded and frayed, and swapping the battery might have finsihed it off.
Edited by Turkey on Thursday 31st January 23:22
Have a look at the technical part of the forum on www.the75andztclub.co.uk
Standard items to check on there which include:
- connection to fuel filter, if not ok it won't start!
- not enough pressure in the high pressure rail (common rail), nothing will happen. Sensor is on the end of it.
- camshaft sensor, only used during starting, if not ok, it won't start
- markI cars have two fuel pumps, it can run on one of them, but it that stops working the car will not start
Hopefully you will find the culprit quickly,
Rob
Standard items to check on there which include:
- connection to fuel filter, if not ok it won't start!
- not enough pressure in the high pressure rail (common rail), nothing will happen. Sensor is on the end of it.
- camshaft sensor, only used during starting, if not ok, it won't start
- markI cars have two fuel pumps, it can run on one of them, but it that stops working the car will not start
Hopefully you will find the culprit quickly,
Rob
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