waterless coolant
Discussion
I know of one engine which has been filled with it, by chance it died very shortly (6-8 running hours later) afterwards from localised hotspots in the head around cylinder 2 and 3. This probably can't be attributed to the Evans coolant (although the cause is still basically a mystery).
No noticable reduction of coolant temperature was observed in the running time.
I think it sounds better in theory than it works in practice. I certainly don't think it justifies the extortionate cost.
No noticable reduction of coolant temperature was observed in the running time.
I think it sounds better in theory than it works in practice. I certainly don't think it justifies the extortionate cost.
You're actual usage and requirements will dictate whether it is worth it or not.
Only ever used it on one engine, 4cyl turbo approx 700hp, have nothing bad to say about it at all. Works as it says on the tin really.
The only expensive aspect is if you require the flush fluid first, which basically doubles the cost. If it is a new dry build then you just install.
Obviously it is more expensive than water....but it's also cheaper than a tank of fuel, and that doesnt exactly last long.
Only ever used it on one engine, 4cyl turbo approx 700hp, have nothing bad to say about it at all. Works as it says on the tin really.
The only expensive aspect is if you require the flush fluid first, which basically doubles the cost. If it is a new dry build then you just install.
Obviously it is more expensive than water....but it's also cheaper than a tank of fuel, and that doesnt exactly last long.
I use it in my GSXR1100WP engine'd hillclimb car. I have marginal cooling capability at the best of times and the Evans stuff has helped a lot - it appears to transfer more heat to the oil (heating it up more quickly), and once the engine is up to temp, it appears to slow down the coolant temp rise quite significantly.
Yes it's quite dear, but I would recommend it.
Steve
Yes it's quite dear, but I would recommend it.
Steve
One companies test results...although I would say biased to a degree, with some bits more than hard to believe.
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
And a response from Evans in the thread below
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.ph...
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
And a response from Evans in the thread below
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.ph...
Interesting articles - both the NR one and the response from Evans.....
Regardless, I'm happy using it and the actual in-use results I've experienced are positive.
I didn't flush my engine out - it had been partially stripped for a gearbox change over the winter so I was fairly confident that all the original coolant (a standard glycol based antifreeze/water 50/50 mix) was gone.
Steve
Regardless, I'm happy using it and the actual in-use results I've experienced are positive.
I didn't flush my engine out - it had been partially stripped for a gearbox change over the winter so I was fairly confident that all the original coolant (a standard glycol based antifreeze/water 50/50 mix) was gone.
Steve
I'd consider it if...
I had cooling problems that couldn't be easily cured, or were caused by a design fault. E-type jags for example.
I had a museum piece or a classic that I would want to drive occasionally, as I wouldn't need to touch the "water" ever again. Jay Leno does this.
Downside is that if there is a leak, there's a lot of money in that puddle.
I had cooling problems that couldn't be easily cured, or were caused by a design fault. E-type jags for example.
I had a museum piece or a classic that I would want to drive occasionally, as I wouldn't need to touch the "water" ever again. Jay Leno does this.
Downside is that if there is a leak, there's a lot of money in that puddle.
pingu393 said:
Downside is that if there is a leak, there's a lot of money in that puddle.
True, but there is less chance of a leak in the first place due to not running under pressure.Although again....a tank of petrol doesnt last long...so is almost wasted. Engine oils can be expensive, and are just thrown out after a few miles.
So the cost of Evans just seems high compared to water which is free. But as far as length of service for cost....it really isnt that bad if it's a dry install.
pingu393 said:
I had a museum piece or a classic that I would want to drive occasionally, as I wouldn't need to touch the "water" ever again. Jay Leno does this.
This, anything other, well, it's very hard to beat water with a tension reducer, even Evans themselves will tell you a system runs cooler on water unless it has problems.And the nucleatic boiling reduction that gets pushed every time, isn't necessarily a good thing, I know a LOT of heads that are designed specifically for that boiling to occur because the phase change takes away a lot of heat.
Edited by PhillipM on Friday 5th July 19:45
I have decided its a step too far money wise so am sticking with Fords 50/50 recommendation . Late news ! found a sim product 25% of the price, agri contracters swear by it -- coolant made for John Deer tractors these can get seriously abused ,hot in summer and those in the know say this is the dogs doodles
Edited by one eyed mick on Sunday 7th July 10:58
one eyed mick said:
I have decided its a step too far money wise so am sticking with Fords 50/50 recommendation . Late news ! found a sim product 25% of the price, agri contracters swear by it -- coolant made for John Deer tractors these can get seriously abused ,hot in summer and those in the know say this is the dogs doodles
Do tell what is it? My car uses 7l of coolant which makes the Evans stuff with a flush twice as expensive.Edited by one eyed mick on Sunday 7th July 10:58
DocArbathnot said:
Do tell what is it? My car uses 7l of coolant which makes the Evans stuff with a flush twice as expensive.
John Deere agri tractor coolant ,don't know your localality but find agricultural dealers and they should help it comes in 20 litre drums for around 60/70 notes so you have coolant for alife time its anticorrosive and antifreeze too, used neat HTHone eyed mick said:
John Deere agri tractor coolant ,don't know your localality but find agricultural dealers and they should help it comes in 20 litre drums for around 60/70 notes so you have coolant for alife time its anticorrosive and antifreeze too, used neat HTH
£44.82 for 25 litres of anti-freeze coolant from my local motor factors
.one eyed mick said:
pingu393 said:
£44.82 for 25 litres of anti-freeze coolant from my local motor factors
.
Is that normal anti freeze ? ,the JD stuff is a designated coolant used neat will post results later in the year
.http://www.deere.com.au/wps/dcom/en_AU/parts/featu...
one eyed mick said:
It is used Neat for hd applications or as mix for less onerous duties ,a 250 horse deisel running at 8/10mph there is not a lot of air flow through the rad and it may be up to 15/16 hr shift I intend to try it shortly,will post impressions later
Yes, but by nature diesels run a lot cooler than a petrol engine too.one eyed mick said:
It is used Neat for hd applications or as mix for less onerous duties ,a 250 horse deisel running at 8/10mph there is not a lot of air flow through the rad and it may be up to 15/16 hr shift I intend to try it shortly,will post impressions later
That's a pretty naff argument really. How do you think stationary engines like generators manage? By having enough radiator and fan capacity to not need any vehicle speed at all to generate airflow. They don't use fancy snake oil probably don't work any better than water coolants when conventional and cheap engineering handles things quite adequately.I may be totally wrong but I have the impression that as experienced as some posters are that they understand how hot a aplantpeice or agricutural eqpt can be asked to operate and still survive ,yes gen units have enormous rads and associated cooling systems designed for the job ,a250 horse tractor working in the feild with dust ,chaff etc needs all the help it can get so Jd provde a designated coolant to address this if it works in my kit car ,happy bunny if not back to 50/50 a/f and water this was the idea of the orig post to get a disscusion going and hopefully show a new way to go , idealy Iwould fit a larger alloy rad and run on evans product but my funds are not as deep as some and have to try other routes than big cash outlay , no knocks meant and if I'm wrong I'll accept it
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