Oil flush
Author
Discussion

chasdad

Original Poster:

277 posts

174 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
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I've just bought a mk1 mx5 thats not been driven much in 3 years . I've trailered it home and started it up and it sounds really tappety. Thinking of doing an oil flush and change because ive heard this may clean up the hydraulic tappety.
This may seem a silly question but I've got 15 litres of castrol magnatec diesel oil laying about. Would It be possible to use this to give it a flush before putting the proper oil in.

harleyE30

44 posts

182 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
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Oil flush can do more harm than good by flushing out carbon deposits which are holding seals together, but more critically, can dislodge carbon deposits, which then become trapped and block oil-ways.

All MK1 MX5s tap from cold (it even says in the manual I believe). If it is prolonged then there is an issue.

I run 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 and the tapping has decreased significantly and lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds only from stone cold.


chasdad

Original Poster:

277 posts

174 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
quotequote all
The car seemed ok but was only driven around their car park for 3years. Now seems tappety all the time although ive only had it ticking over because havent insured it yet.was thinking of giving it an oil change and see if that helps.does oil degrade if left not used in an engine

HustleRussell

26,562 posts

190 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
quotequote all
harleyE30 said:
Oil flush can do more harm than good by flushing out carbon deposits which are holding seals together, but more critically, can dislodge carbon deposits, which then become trapped and block oil-ways.

All MK1 MX5s tap from cold (it even says in the manual I believe). If it is prolonged then there is an issue.

I run 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 and the tapping has decreased significantly and lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds only from stone cold.
So where are these 'carbon deposits' on the seals and oil ways coming from?

I wouldn't bother using any flushing additives but there will be no harm in changing the oil twice and no harm in using a diesel oil of the correct grade or close enough for the 'flush'.

Remember that the engine will start and run with no oil pressure until the oil filter canister fills, so if possible pre-fill the filter canister and crank the engine with the ignition system immobilised until it has oil pressure.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

191 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
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Forte flush filter change and refill with 15/40 semisytnth should end all your probs

chasdad

Original Poster:

277 posts

174 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
quotequote all
Cheers lads . Must admit ive been revving it a bit and it sounded better,may need a good run after 3 years almost idle

HustleRussell

26,562 posts

190 months

Sunday 7th July 2013
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The top end would've been pretty dry and a run at above idle (higher oil pressures) would've allowed the lifters to 'pump back up'.

packman10_4

245 posts

224 months

Monday 15th July 2013
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You need to watch older cars. If you do this to the mk1 and 2 golfs the oil pump looses suction and then wont suck up the oil been there many time with this.

FORTE or WYNES is what you need to use 15 min at high idle 1500-2000rpm then drain.

George111

6,930 posts

281 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
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chasdad said:
Cheers lads . Must admit ive been revving it a bit and it sounded better,may need a good run after 3 years almost idle
Probably just needs a bit of good use, usually works smile I'd stay away from potions and lotions in an engine, good modern oil has all the additives you need, just change it regularly and use the car well !


theshrew

6,008 posts

214 months

Thursday 18th July 2013
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Dont use engine flush its st.

Get some cheap oil + filter run it with that in for a week or couple of good runs. Then change to a good oil + filter jobs jobbed.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

191 months

Thursday 18th July 2013
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So you are flushing it ,having used Forte for a long time for trade and personal vehicles I can say it's the bussiness addit run for 20/30 mins and drain while hot[vimp] change filter and refill job done ,BTW I'm old school and as said this stuff works , rattly hydraulic lifters etc

Old Merc

3,819 posts

197 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
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one eyed mick said:
So you are flushing it ,having used Forte for a long time for trade and personal vehicles I can say it's the bussiness addit run for 20/30 mins and drain while hot[vimp] change filter and refill job done ,BTW I'm old school and as said this stuff works , rattly hydraulic lifters etc
Ditto all above,inc`I`m old school as well.I`ve been using Forte products for 20 years and believe me it works. After all the flushing why not pop in some "top end treatment" as well? and while your there some "gas treatment" in the tank.
Forte products must not be confused with other flushing products.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

191 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
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+1,old merc , they tend not to listen to people with real life experience!!!

Krikkit

27,938 posts

211 months

Wednesday 24th July 2013
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HustleRussell said:
The top end would've been pretty dry and a run at above idle (higher oil pressures) would've allowed the lifters to 'pump back up'.
This - hydraulic lifters will have drained out long ago if it's only been given a gentle run occasionally. Take it out and give it some stick for a few miles, get the top end nice and full of oil and I bet they'll quieten down.

Did a head gasket change on my car, the tappets leaked a bit and it took about 10 minutes of running at decent speed to quieten them down again - sounded awful on startup (thought I'd knackered something!)