Discussion
I've just bought a mk1 mx5 thats not been driven much in 3 years . I've trailered it home and started it up and it sounds really tappety. Thinking of doing an oil flush and change because ive heard this may clean up the hydraulic tappety.
This may seem a silly question but I've got 15 litres of castrol magnatec diesel oil laying about. Would It be possible to use this to give it a flush before putting the proper oil in.
This may seem a silly question but I've got 15 litres of castrol magnatec diesel oil laying about. Would It be possible to use this to give it a flush before putting the proper oil in.
Oil flush can do more harm than good by flushing out carbon deposits which are holding seals together, but more critically, can dislodge carbon deposits, which then become trapped and block oil-ways.
All MK1 MX5s tap from cold (it even says in the manual I believe). If it is prolonged then there is an issue.
I run 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 and the tapping has decreased significantly and lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds only from stone cold.
All MK1 MX5s tap from cold (it even says in the manual I believe). If it is prolonged then there is an issue.
I run 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 and the tapping has decreased significantly and lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds only from stone cold.
harleyE30 said:
Oil flush can do more harm than good by flushing out carbon deposits which are holding seals together, but more critically, can dislodge carbon deposits, which then become trapped and block oil-ways.
All MK1 MX5s tap from cold (it even says in the manual I believe). If it is prolonged then there is an issue.
I run 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 and the tapping has decreased significantly and lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds only from stone cold.
So where are these 'carbon deposits' on the seals and oil ways coming from?All MK1 MX5s tap from cold (it even says in the manual I believe). If it is prolonged then there is an issue.
I run 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 and the tapping has decreased significantly and lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds only from stone cold.
I wouldn't bother using any flushing additives but there will be no harm in changing the oil twice and no harm in using a diesel oil of the correct grade or close enough for the 'flush'.
Remember that the engine will start and run with no oil pressure until the oil filter canister fills, so if possible pre-fill the filter canister and crank the engine with the ignition system immobilised until it has oil pressure.
chasdad said:
Cheers lads . Must admit ive been revving it a bit and it sounded better,may need a good run after 3 years almost idle
Probably just needs a bit of good use, usually works
I'd stay away from potions and lotions in an engine, good modern oil has all the additives you need, just change it regularly and use the car well !one eyed mick said:
So you are flushing it ,having used Forte for a long time for trade and personal vehicles I can say it's the bussiness addit run for 20/30 mins and drain while hot[vimp] change filter and refill job done ,BTW I'm old school and as said this stuff works , rattly hydraulic lifters etc
Ditto all above,inc`I`m old school as well.I`ve been using Forte products for 20 years and believe me it works. After all the flushing why not pop in some "top end treatment" as well? and while your there some "gas treatment" in the tank.Forte products must not be confused with other flushing products.
HustleRussell said:
The top end would've been pretty dry and a run at above idle (higher oil pressures) would've allowed the lifters to 'pump back up'.
This - hydraulic lifters will have drained out long ago if it's only been given a gentle run occasionally. Take it out and give it some stick for a few miles, get the top end nice and full of oil and I bet they'll quieten down.Did a head gasket change on my car, the tappets leaked a bit and it took about 10 minutes of running at decent speed to quieten them down again - sounded awful on startup (thought I'd knackered something!)
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