Small block ford help
Discussion
Hello
Well I picked up a DSS 347 stroker short engine at the weekend and a pair of Performer RPM heads for my GT40 build
. Now I have them in my garage I'm a little unsure on how to proceed, I have ordered a rebuilding booked from real steel but the chap who sold it to me did say it would just cover assembling a standard engine which I guess mine is not...ultimately I would like circa 400bhp and intend to use a Holley carb though this may initially need very modest tuning for IVA I believe?
The spec of my engine are as follows:
1987 302 based DSS 347 Stroker roller cam short engine
Forged floating pin pistons
Forged I beam rods
Stroker crank
Girdle on the mains
Ford racing roller cam
Flywheel counter weight required 28oz
Balancer counter weight required 28oz
Piston fly cut: twisted wedge / inline
Piston design: dish
Pair of Edellbrock Performer RPM aluminium heads with 2.02" intake valves
Comp Cams Magnum roller rocker arms
Block is new and never run, but heads have done approx 200 miles on a different block.
This it what it started as:
Small Block Ford Pro Bullet Short Block
I will not be needing the engine for some time but would like to build it up slowly and get it right first time. Initially I would like to mount the heads and sump to seal up the engine from dust etc but even this seems to be a challenge with many many options.
So question, question, questions...
1, Which method of securing the heads should I use, I was looking at the ARP head bolt kits but then saw you can also buy stud kits! Now bolts seem the easier cheaper option but is there a reason I should not use them? Also is it better to use 12 point ones over the traditional hex head ones?
2, Which head gasket should I use, don't know where to begin here...
3, I was told to avoid the cork sump gaskets and use a "decent one", again which one?
3, I was also advised by the seller to replace the flywheel and big cog (on other end of block) bolt with ARP ones, are these the only ones that require improving or are ther others and what are the technical terms I could use to search for them as "big cog bolt" is not yielding the results I hoped for....
4, which inlet manifold do I want, prob going for the RPM Performer again but is the air gap one needed or more desirable?
5, which distributer will I need and what sort of gear for this block, I sure the chap I bought it from said it needs to be something, in order not to damage the engine!
And finally
6, what sort of power should I be able to get from this configuration?
Anyway pics pics pics!







Cheers
Well I picked up a DSS 347 stroker short engine at the weekend and a pair of Performer RPM heads for my GT40 build
. Now I have them in my garage I'm a little unsure on how to proceed, I have ordered a rebuilding booked from real steel but the chap who sold it to me did say it would just cover assembling a standard engine which I guess mine is not...ultimately I would like circa 400bhp and intend to use a Holley carb though this may initially need very modest tuning for IVA I believe?The spec of my engine are as follows:
1987 302 based DSS 347 Stroker roller cam short engine
Forged floating pin pistons
Forged I beam rods
Stroker crank
Girdle on the mains
Ford racing roller cam
Flywheel counter weight required 28oz
Balancer counter weight required 28oz
Piston fly cut: twisted wedge / inline
Piston design: dish
Pair of Edellbrock Performer RPM aluminium heads with 2.02" intake valves
Comp Cams Magnum roller rocker arms
Block is new and never run, but heads have done approx 200 miles on a different block.
This it what it started as:
Small Block Ford Pro Bullet Short Block
I will not be needing the engine for some time but would like to build it up slowly and get it right first time. Initially I would like to mount the heads and sump to seal up the engine from dust etc but even this seems to be a challenge with many many options.
So question, question, questions...

1, Which method of securing the heads should I use, I was looking at the ARP head bolt kits but then saw you can also buy stud kits! Now bolts seem the easier cheaper option but is there a reason I should not use them? Also is it better to use 12 point ones over the traditional hex head ones?
2, Which head gasket should I use, don't know where to begin here...
3, I was told to avoid the cork sump gaskets and use a "decent one", again which one?
3, I was also advised by the seller to replace the flywheel and big cog (on other end of block) bolt with ARP ones, are these the only ones that require improving or are ther others and what are the technical terms I could use to search for them as "big cog bolt" is not yielding the results I hoped for....

4, which inlet manifold do I want, prob going for the RPM Performer again but is the air gap one needed or more desirable?
5, which distributer will I need and what sort of gear for this block, I sure the chap I bought it from said it needs to be something, in order not to damage the engine!
And finally
6, what sort of power should I be able to get from this configuration?
Anyway pics pics pics!







Cheers
I would look to a supplier of components like Summit Racing to provide parts that will complete the build. They can also advise on which parts would work well together to ensure your build delivers the outcome you want.
Another useful source of information would be one of the many magazines and websites devoted to owners of small block Fords. Such an example would be Mustang Monthly. Try this....
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/
Another useful source of information would be one of the many magazines and websites devoted to owners of small block Fords. Such an example would be Mustang Monthly. Try this....
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/
Find a mustang forum and repost. The block you have is based off the old 5.0 short block which is also found in the fox body mustangs. The guys at a mustang forum should be able to provide you with real numbers that come from experience and insight as to where your power range will be. They will also be able to tell you what parts are best for your build.
I would give you info, but most of my experience is with SBC rather than SBF.
Edit:
As I said, I am not too familiar with SBF, but I'm nearly certain there is more than 1 ford racing roller cam, and your power numbers can vary wildly with different cams.
Im also gonna mention that with modest tuning i doubt you will see more than 350hp at the wheels, and more realistically you will probly see about 300.
I would give you info, but most of my experience is with SBC rather than SBF.
Edit:
As I said, I am not too familiar with SBF, but I'm nearly certain there is more than 1 ford racing roller cam, and your power numbers can vary wildly with different cams.
Im also gonna mention that with modest tuning i doubt you will see more than 350hp at the wheels, and more realistically you will probly see about 300.
Edited by dblack1 on Wednesday 2nd October 03:43
Hoonigan said:
............ intend to use a Holley carb though this may initially need very modest tuning for IVA I believe?......
Emissions at IVA will be based on the 'effective date' of the vehicle. In your case this will be the date of the engine.You will need to prove the date of the engine so find yourself a SBF tuning book which will likely have a list of engine numbers and manufacture dates. Take a photocopy and the book with you to the IVA test. The tester will keep the copy for the record.
Emissions will then be tested at 3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC which should not be a problem unless you have an extreme cam.
Steve
Great thanks all for your advice, been doing lots of research and have been in contact with people who have built very similar engines so getting some good advice, it is apparent I really need to find out what cam is in there before I go much further but by all accounts other 347s with the same heads and a decent induction setup have certainly achieved the 400bhp that I would like, I guess time will tell...
Im jealous now! Ive only got a mild 302 in my car that makes 300 hp but i would expect to see around the 400 hp mark for that combo.
Ive used both real steel and roadcraft uk for my bits in the past, both very helpful but not that cheap.
Fel pro are the gasket of choice for these engines, cork gaskets are fine if installed correctly.
The only area that gives trouble is the inlet manifold valley end gaskets, these are cork but the opinion is to just use a high quality gasket sealent instead. I have oil leaks at these gaskets on mine which i plan to rectify soon.
As for the manifold i would stick with the performer rpm, i have read that there isnt much difference between it and the air gap version.
Ive used both real steel and roadcraft uk for my bits in the past, both very helpful but not that cheap.
Fel pro are the gasket of choice for these engines, cork gaskets are fine if installed correctly.
The only area that gives trouble is the inlet manifold valley end gaskets, these are cork but the opinion is to just use a high quality gasket sealent instead. I have oil leaks at these gaskets on mine which i plan to rectify soon.
As for the manifold i would stick with the performer rpm, i have read that there isnt much difference between it and the air gap version.
Edited by ch427 on Thursday 3rd October 20:36
Hoonigan said:
but by all accounts other 347s with the same heads and a decent induction setup have certainly achieved the 400bhp that I would like, I guess time will tell...
I kinda feel like you think i ment the 400hp mark was unreachable. If that is the case, that is not what I ment. with your bore/stroke/heads 400 hp is not unrealistic, but with a moderate cam 400 is unrealistic (unless you plan on using a power adder).dblack1 said:
I kinda feel like you think i ment the 400hp mark was unreachable. If that is the case, that is not what I ment. with your bore/stroke/heads 400 hp is not unrealistic, but with a moderate cam 400 is unrealistic (unless you plan on using a power adder).
No not a mild cam but just mildly adjusted carb for IVA the once passed have a retune 
Though I am a little worried about my compression which I have worked out to be 9.20 : 1 I will need to do some research

So far you are just finding the ident of the parts you have.
When you have all the info put it into Dyno2000 http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/Tools/DesktopDyno...
Then start experimenting with the options of the parts you have not yet sourced such as the exhaust.
This program was very useful when I developed my SBC and its prediction was very close to the final performance of the engine.
Steve
When you have all the info put it into Dyno2000 http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/Tools/DesktopDyno...
Then start experimenting with the options of the parts you have not yet sourced such as the exhaust.
This program was very useful when I developed my SBC and its prediction was very close to the final performance of the engine.
Steve
dblack1 said:
Compcams also makes a program (or at least they used to) and you could look at what different cams (sourcing real cams you could purchase from compcams) would do for your motor.
Ive used that and although it is fun and a help it throws out some very unrealistic hp figures.Its called camquest.
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thanks for the gasket advice, going to road craft to pick up some fel-pro ones and head bolts tomorrow