Difficulty of fixing a gearbox at home?
Discussion
ked.How long is a piece of string? What tools and facilities do you have and what kind of similar projects have you tackled before. If all you have is a hammer, an adjustable and a kitchen table and the most complicated work you've tried is changing a bulb then no. In terms of DIY gearboxes are sometimes the most complex job available in a car, even engine rebuilds are simpler(even if the number of steps is greater, the individual steps are easy).
Whereabouts are you, I may be able to help.
It would be useful to know the model/age/mileage of your car.
Are you sure it is just the worn synchro or could the box be generally worn.
Does the quote include removing/refitting the box or just stripping and rebuilding the box itself.
If you can remove the box yourself then you could fit a good box from a breakers.
It would be useful to know the model/age/mileage of your car.
Are you sure it is just the worn synchro or could the box be generally worn.
Does the quote include removing/refitting the box or just stripping and rebuilding the box itself.
If you can remove the box yourself then you could fit a good box from a breakers.
I would rather try and fix this box as the engine an gearbox has only done 27,000 miles and other than it grinding into second when going from 1st to 2nd when still cold, its fine.
the price 1000 pound is just the price to fix, not refit and removal. so that would be on top,
I have either, enough tools to manage, or can borrow the rest to manage.
I know it will not be easy, but will have to figure it of as i can afford parts, but not the several hundred of labour.
edit: oh and its a 5 speed manual 2.0 mitsi galant GLS from 99, and i have doe a few engine jobs with spanners, but nothing like this.
the price 1000 pound is just the price to fix, not refit and removal. so that would be on top,
I have either, enough tools to manage, or can borrow the rest to manage.
I know it will not be easy, but will have to figure it of as i can afford parts, but not the several hundred of labour.
edit: oh and its a 5 speed manual 2.0 mitsi galant GLS from 99, and i have doe a few engine jobs with spanners, but nothing like this.
Edited by 4G63T on Saturday 1st March 22:33
Before you start tearing into the gearbox you should first make sure that your clutch, clutch release and gear linkages are in good condition and that you have the correct level and type of fluid.
Have you tried any Mitsubishi forums for advice, there are some threads on DSM Forum dealing with diagnosing synchros. The part is available in the USA for $120 but you are likely to need extra bits like sleeves seals and bearings and the use of a press.
£1000 is a fair old chunk of cash to fit just one synchro hub are you sure this quote was not for a complete overhaul?
Have you tried any Mitsubishi forums for advice, there are some threads on DSM Forum dealing with diagnosing synchros. The part is available in the USA for $120 but you are likely to need extra bits like sleeves seals and bearings and the use of a press.
£1000 is a fair old chunk of cash to fit just one synchro hub are you sure this quote was not for a complete overhaul?
In my experience many gearboxes seem to be difficult shifting from 1st to 2nd and I don't know why. You seem to want to go to a lot of trouble just to fix a problem shifting up one gear. What about changing the oil first? For instance if it's got 80w90 at the moment you could try 75w90.
I have changed the oil, to redline MT90, it is GL-4 compliant which my gearbox needs.
its not just a bit of a problem shift, it crunches into second every time unless you have driven around for a few miles, so the teeth on second might be knackered aswell, so would probably change that too while i have it open if the teeth have been chewed up aswell as on any other part.
its not just a bit of a problem shift, it crunches into second every time unless you have driven around for a few miles, so the teeth on second might be knackered aswell, so would probably change that too while i have it open if the teeth have been chewed up aswell as on any other part.
a waste of time, well at the mo, i have nothing other than free time.
money, i do not have a huge amount, would probably have to sell my motorbike to fund a pro refurbishing my 'box. whereas i could afford a couple/3 hundred in parts to fix it my self.
I have not had the car long, couple of months, and it really is faultless every were else apart from the gearbox, its even only done 27k.
i really don't want to get rid of it as it is perfect for me really, if it had a bit more power i would quite like it but atm its fine.
money, i do not have a huge amount, would probably have to sell my motorbike to fund a pro refurbishing my 'box. whereas i could afford a couple/3 hundred in parts to fix it my self.
I have not had the car long, couple of months, and it really is faultless every were else apart from the gearbox, its even only done 27k.
i really don't want to get rid of it as it is perfect for me really, if it had a bit more power i would quite like it but atm its fine.
The other question to be asked is why did a synchro fail at such a low mileage- if you fix it successfully with original parts, is it going to wear out again in another 27k miles? This is the sort of thing a transmissions guy would know. Are improved parts available on the aftermarket? Is there a knack to assembling a durable gearbox?
4G63T said:
I have changed the oil, to redline MT90, it is GL-4 compliant which my gearbox needs.
... it crunches into second every time unless you have driven around for a few miles...
It still sounds like a slightly heavy oil problem. The oil grade you quoted is good but maybe it needs an ATF Dexron type oil. How about D4 ATF from Redline?... it crunches into second every time unless you have driven around for a few miles...
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&...
BritishRacinGrin said:
The other question to be asked is why did a synchro fail at such a low mileage- if you fix it successfully with original parts, is it going to wear out again in another 27k miles? This is the sort of thing a transmissions guy would know. Are improved parts available on the aftermarket? Is there a knack to assembling a durable gearbox?
I don't know why It failed, it was owned by some pretty dodgy guy before me, and before that, it was owned by a woman, who did only about 1500 miles a year in it.So it might have been the bloke before me smashing it into gear or doing whatever you do to make a sycnro fail, or might have been the original owner, but I'm more inclined to say it was the bloke, as he lived in probably one of the worse estates i have been to, with windows smashed in in empty flats, rubbish all about and just general nastiness about the place, should have really looked into the place before turning up in hindsight, but didn't.
it was doing it when i bought it but as it only did it the once on the test drive i thought it was just me not putting the clutch down properly...
Edited by 4G63T on Tuesday 4th March 03:33
226bhp said:
Unless it's been clocked.
I would be finding someone who will reliably fix the box for less, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that to do.
I have all paperwork to back it up, old MOT's paper work stating work done with milage on the paperwork for servicing an stuff.I would be finding someone who will reliably fix the box for less, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that to do.
the inside is pretty mint, like its hardly been sat it tbh, and the engine is really good, like it actually sounds pretty much just run in and pulls brilliantly with no funny noises or knocks
Do you know anyone in kent that can recondition a gearbox reliably for less than a grand? cos i have tried a few places, and they all quote between 850-1000
Edited by 4G63T on Tuesday 4th March 03:38
Locknut said:
It still sounds like a slightly heavy oil problem. The oil grade you quoted is good but maybe it needs an ATF Dexron type oil. How about D4 ATF from Redline?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&...
you say to heavy oil?http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&...
hmm, ok, Ill have to think about doing a change again with a full gearbox flush this time. but i don't hold much hope with it working.
4G63T said:
I have all paperwork to back it up, old MOT's paper work stating work done with milage on the paperwork for servicing an stuff.
the inside is pretty mint, like its hardly been sat it tbh, and the engine is really good, like it actually sounds pretty much just run in and pulls brilliantly with no funny noises or knocks
Do you know anyone in kent that can recondition a gearbox reliably for less than a grand? cos i have tried a few places, and they all quote between 850-1000
Try Phil Stewart at Road and race Transmissions. He's in Sevenoaks. the inside is pretty mint, like its hardly been sat it tbh, and the engine is really good, like it actually sounds pretty much just run in and pulls brilliantly with no funny noises or knocks
Do you know anyone in kent that can recondition a gearbox reliably for less than a grand? cos i have tried a few places, and they all quote between 850-1000
Edited by 4G63T on Tuesday 4th March 03:38
4G63T said:
I have all paperwork to back it up, old MOT's paper work stating work done with milage on the paperwork for servicing an stuff.
the inside is pretty mint, like its hardly been sat it tbh, and the engine is really good, like it actually sounds pretty much just run in and pulls brilliantly with no funny noises or knocks
Do you know anyone in kent that can recondition a gearbox reliably for less than a grand? cos i have tried a few places, and they all quote between 850-1000
Sorry, not in your area no.the inside is pretty mint, like its hardly been sat it tbh, and the engine is really good, like it actually sounds pretty much just run in and pulls brilliantly with no funny noises or knocks
Do you know anyone in kent that can recondition a gearbox reliably for less than a grand? cos i have tried a few places, and they all quote between 850-1000
Edited by 4G63T on Tuesday 4th March 03:38
You would have thought with that amount of miles it would still have the original oil in it.
Into second going up when cold is common.
Into second coming down indicates wear. I agree with the 'wrong oil' hypothesis, especially as the 'problem; goes away when the oil is warm. Usually warm oil highlights problems as it 'thins' out.
Two ways forward. Double declutch into second when cold to ease the change. Used to do this often with obstructive changes in the past or change the oil to an approved type but a lighter weight such as that specced for colder climate countries ie. Scandinavia.
Peugeot 107, Cit. C1 are classic modern examples that benefit from a change in oil grade....
Into second coming down indicates wear. I agree with the 'wrong oil' hypothesis, especially as the 'problem; goes away when the oil is warm. Usually warm oil highlights problems as it 'thins' out.
Two ways forward. Double declutch into second when cold to ease the change. Used to do this often with obstructive changes in the past or change the oil to an approved type but a lighter weight such as that specced for colder climate countries ie. Scandinavia.
Peugeot 107, Cit. C1 are classic modern examples that benefit from a change in oil grade....
4G63T said:
hmm, ok, Ill have to think about doing a change again with a full gearbox flush this time. but i don't hold much hope with it working.
Even if it doesn't work it's still worth a try because it will cost you an awful lot less than rebuilding the gearbox.I once had a similar problem after changing gear oil in an old BMW. I used 75w90 and the first to second shift was almost impossible with the engine cold. It would free out as the temperature rose. Then I found out that I should have used an ATF fluid so I changed it again. The problem was solved.
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