K Series head gasket. What's best?

[Megaflow]

So, the head gasket has just gone pop on my Elise, bugger... That will be a gasket kit, a cambelt kit and coolant required.

The question is what is the best gasket to use, internet seems to suggest Payen BW750, with steel dowels. Is this still the case?

[Steffan]

Megaflow said:

So, the head gasket has just gone pop on my Elise, bugger... That will be a gasket kit, a cambelt kit and coolant required.

The question is what is the best gasket to use, internet seems to suggest Payen BW750, with steel dowels. Is this still the case?

As you probably know there have been a significant number of K series head gasket "cures" offered over the years on the Internet. Some of these do seem to be better than others and the Payen solution (?) is one which receives support. The steel dowels are definitely worthwhile IMO. I have had a number of these engines in different forms in various cars. On song they are fantastic high revving free running lightweight engine which consistently exceeds the opposition in sports car use.

However my experience has been that the longevity of the new gasket depends to some extent of how hot the old gasket/engine has got before the driver has stopped. If the engine has been really cooked then getting a reliable lasting seal becomes very tricky indeed it it proves possible at all. The crossbolting aspects of this engine also need careful recognition and new bolts are absolutely critical to success.

There is also the matters of upgraded water pump, thermostat and radiator to consider particularly in the rear engine applications where air flow is at best poor and frequently barely adequate. Not to mention the rest of the hoses and cooling system parts. There are several firms offering specialist services on this subject on the web and some of these do seem to have a real understanding of that engine. I would try asking the question of some of those local to you and discussing the work needed before actually making a decision. I do wish you well.

[anonymous-user]

I'd say this is the "best" cure:





Sorry, that's no use to you, but it will fix the head gasket issues......... ;-)

[Steffan]

Max_Torque said:

I'd say this is the "best" cure:





Sorry, that's no use to you, but it will fix the head gasket issues......... ;-)

I cannot disagree. The racing mechanics firm local to me fit Duratec and Zeetec Ford engines as a replacement for the K series in various performance cars. The Fords are pretty well unbreakable. The K series are not.

[DVandrews]

It's not just about the gasket, it is the environment in which the gasket finds itself that is the key to success or failure when replacing a HG..

Firstly the check the head has not gone soft, less than 95 Brinell and the head is scrap
Peen the area of the fire ring on the head
with a peening tool and a hammer to compress any voids/porosity in the material and the skim the head, this will ensure a porosity free are where the gasket fire ring sits.
Ensure the liners have 0.1mm (4 thou) protrusion from the block.
Use new OE bolts
Use a new Payen BW750 gasket(blue elastomer) , or if the had has been over skimmed a Payen BW5750 MLS gasket and shim

Follow those rules and you will eliminate the possibility of gasket failure.

Dave

[Megaflow]

Much appreciated Dave.

[Zombie]

The land rover specialist I work for occasionally swears by victor reinz gaskets. - uses them on the freelanders and they do seem to last.

[Megaflow]

Max_Torque said:

I'd say this is the "best" cure:





Sorry, that's no use to you, but it will fix the head gasket issues......... ;-)

You started me thinking, then I checked prices...



£8995+vat for a drive in, drive out conversion, or £4200 for a kit from America and DIY. Then there is the ridiculous cost of engines, £1000-1500 for a bare engine!

You can buy a whole car for £2k...