Torque settings when using solid collar in diff?

[rcx106]

I've got some solid collars to replace the crush collar in my Suzuki Vitara diffs. But the manufacturer doesn't have any torque settings for it, when I asked he avoided answering (Rob Storr, well known in the Suzuki world).

I've got an old diff here undisturbed from factory. I've loosened the pinion nut by a quarter turn to see what torque it takes to get the nut screwed back to it's original position. But my torque wrench only goes upto 210 Nm and that's only got it half way back.

I'll also get an original crush collar and see what torque it takes to get to the required pinion preload.

I suppose I could also look up what Toyota used to specify on their old non crushable collars.

[stevieturbo]

It really wont be critical as long as it's tight and cannot come loose.

Crush washers might take a lot of effort to crush, but after some usage, the nut certainly wouldnt be considered tight anymore

[rcx106]

Should mention the "old" diff is broken beyond repair so not worried about having disturbed it.

Landcruiser's, when they used solid collars, stated 197 Nm - 235 Nm, but their pinion nut is M22 while mine is M20.

[Nighthawk]

I'm a bit lost on this,why are you comparing torque loading between collapsible spacers and solid spacers and Suzuki and Toyota diffs ? They're different and can't be compared. If you over tighten the pinion by guessing you'll burn the bearings out and be doing the job again.

A set torque with a pre defined shim and spacer will apply a specific preload based on the distance between the bearings, the same can't be said for a pinion with a collapsing spacer where the torque is applied to the nut until it is enough to crush the spacer and provide the pre load.

[rcx106]

I still need to know how much to torque the nut on the pinion. As the diffs come from the factory with collapsible collars there's no torque specified in the manual as you keep tightening until you get the right bearing preload. With a solid collar the bearing preload depends on the shims, but I still need to torque the nut sufficiently tight that it holds everything together, and not so tight that it damages anything.

[one eyed mick]

If its a solid spacer you will finally stip threads before you damage any thing ,its not impossible with enough grunt I would use thread lock and torque to lowest mfr fig ,if you want to be belt and braces obtain a castelated nut ,tighten as said drill and pin it!

[Pumaracing]

Torque settings for nuts and bolts are listed in standard tables by material spec. Look it up.

[Nighthawk]

The design of the spacer will ensure that there has been enough torque applied to the flange nut to collapse the washer. And the design of the locking portion of the new nut will ensure it remains tight.

Locknuts come in various forms and should only be used once to ensure they their function isn't impaired.