Dodge Ram erratic throttle and dropping out
Discussion
Hi can anyone help me I’m desperate!!!
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram alt 1500 quad cab that starts perfect but when hot the throttle starts to rev up and down slightly and can drop out and stall.
Here in Uk Notts I can’t get anywhere to help I’ve had it at diagnostic company they’re no help. There’s no fault codes throwing for this. Please contact me message or WhatsApp if possible 07981922818.
Thanks
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram alt 1500 quad cab that starts perfect but when hot the throttle starts to rev up and down slightly and can drop out and stall.
Here in Uk Notts I can’t get anywhere to help I’ve had it at diagnostic company they’re no help. There’s no fault codes throwing for this. Please contact me message or WhatsApp if possible 07981922818.
Thanks
Edited by Billy butler on Sunday 18th March 21:25
This vehicle ? Although we can only guess.
https://www.cars.com/research/dodge-ram_1500-2004/
Any competent diagnostics person should be able to have a look...just because they cannot get any codes doesnt mean very much.
Or did they try harder than that ?
And it'd be rather difficult for anyone to recommend where to take it to....UK is a rather vague location.
https://www.cars.com/research/dodge-ram_1500-2004/
Any competent diagnostics person should be able to have a look...just because they cannot get any codes doesnt mean very much.
Or did they try harder than that ?
And it'd be rather difficult for anyone to recommend where to take it to....UK is a rather vague location.
Erratic idle could be caused by something slightly out of wack in the engine management system and causing the engine to respond differently than expected to idle speed controls. Or it could be caused the the idle control mechanism itself sticking and causing the ECU to over-correct. I don't know what sort of idle control that engine has, but if it has an air control valve I suggest you locate it and give it a good clean. Also find out whether you have OBD available - if so, check the coolant temp, air temp, fuel temp, exhaust lambda and so on all look sensible.
USAutomotive sell lots of US car parts, they are bound to know somewhere who can work on them
http://usautomotive.co.uk/contactus.aspx
But really, it is just a car, with an engine, a petrol engine. Any competent mechanic should be able to give some sort of assessment, and a decent generic OBD reader should yield some data.
It is a DBW car, so that could be an area to look at, or indeed the pedal. Although really it could be a hundred things. But it shouldnt need an expert to give some sort of idea.
A name that has popped up recently on another section of PH that might do work on "odd" cars, is http://www.topcatsracing.com/contact/
http://usautomotive.co.uk/contactus.aspx
But really, it is just a car, with an engine, a petrol engine. Any competent mechanic should be able to give some sort of assessment, and a decent generic OBD reader should yield some data.
It is a DBW car, so that could be an area to look at, or indeed the pedal. Although really it could be a hundred things. But it shouldnt need an expert to give some sort of idea.
A name that has popped up recently on another section of PH that might do work on "odd" cars, is http://www.topcatsracing.com/contact/
GreenV8S said:
Erratic idle could be caused by something slightly out of wack in the engine management system and causing the engine to respond differently than expected to idle speed controls. Or it could be caused the the idle control mechanism itself sticking and causing the ECU to over-correct. I don't know what sort of idle control that engine has, but if it has an air control valve I suggest you locate it and give it a good clean. Also find out whether you have OBD available - if so, check the coolant temp, air temp, fuel temp, exhaust lambda and so on all look sensible.
Thanks for advice. I have asked lots of questions to mechanics but it’s all it could be answers. The diagnosis side it’s been in 3/4 times to the supposed best around me which is Neil Harrods Automotives. Charged me a fortune for nothing really telling me what I already know as the only codes I get up are weak bank and that’s only caused on gas. When it switches from petrol to gas it comes up weak bank I can set the temperature for changeover higher to 70 degrees then it doesn’t do it but it takes forever to switch in the winter. Apart from that it runs perfect on petrol till it’s up to temperature then it starts going erratic not a lot but noticed also it then stutters a little on throttle. It’s no different on gas so it’s not a petrol problem the diagnosis co said it was fuel pump pressure so I had a new fuel pump and guess what no difference they’re guessing. This erratic throttle just appeared overnight really at first I couldn’t understand what was happening. Thanks for any advice GreenV8S said:
Erratic idle could be caused by something slightly out of wack in the engine management system and causing the engine to respond differently than expected to idle speed controls. Or it could be caused the the idle control mechanism itself sticking and causing the ECU to over-correct. I don't know what sort of idle control that engine has, but if it has an air control valve I suggest you locate it and give it a good clean. Also find out whether you have OBD available - if so, check the coolant temp, air temp, fuel temp, exhaust lambda and so on all look sensible.
Hi thanks for your input I’ve had the throttle body off and cleaned it I was thinking of what you said regarding sticking because it’s difficult to throttle up as when it’s on the road the throttle seems to stick or it’s slow to respond I know it’s fbw so no cable. Maybe I need to take this off again and have another go with the carb cleaning chemicals there’s nothing bringing any codes up. The problem I have regarding comments on it’s just a car or competent mechanics is that all I am getting is typically it could be or it might be.
I’m a builder not mechanic I don’t say it could be a new roof when it’s a lead flashing causing the leak.!!!!
Someone said it could be a sticking throttle body which is plausible as a throttle body from states is 350£ to maybe only need cleaning thoroughly all I get is change this change and that at dealers / garages.
So 4 lambdas new fuel pump tank off twice supposed air leak later I’m still there with the same s
t. These are all to do with the erratic throttle
Thanks for the advice regarding sticking maybe as sometimes it’s worse than others and I’m absolutely pissed off with it.
If anyone can give me anymore ways to go please help me don’t comment if you can’t
Thanks bud I’ll try again with cleaning the sticking issues on the body again
I’m a builder not mechanic I don’t say it could be a new roof when it’s a lead flashing causing the leak.!!!!
Someone said it could be a sticking throttle body which is plausible as a throttle body from states is 350£ to maybe only need cleaning thoroughly all I get is change this change and that at dealers / garages.
So 4 lambdas new fuel pump tank off twice supposed air leak later I’m still there with the same s
t. These are all to do with the erratic throttle Thanks for the advice regarding sticking maybe as sometimes it’s worse than others and I’m absolutely pissed off with it.
If anyone can give me anymore ways to go please help me don’t comment if you can’t
Thanks bud I’ll try again with cleaning the sticking issues on the body again
Extremely likely to be an induction air leak after what you have already done. As has been said before sany competent mechanic should be able to diagnose it rather than just plug a computer in that says nothing & willy-nilly change "could be" bits at great expense.
Unfortunately proper mechanics are getting thin on the ground these days.
Unfortunately proper mechanics are getting thin on the ground these days.
A sticking throttle is not plausible, as the ecu would recognise that blade position is not tracking pedal position within designated targets and report it as a fault.
Changing parts at random is rather pointless.
That would be like changing an entire roof because there is water in the toilet.
Even a cheap OBD scanner ( not simply a code reader ) would give you some live data to view to see if there are any spurious readings...and would have been cheaper than replacing those lambda sensors and fuel pumps.
As a US vehicle, you would be able to buy something more intended for that market, as generic OBD would have more limitations. At least this would give you a basis to work from.
An intake air leak is also plausible...as could something as simple as poor maintenance. Plugs, leads, the usual.
http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/index.ph...
https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/
Changing parts at random is rather pointless.
That would be like changing an entire roof because there is water in the toilet.
Even a cheap OBD scanner ( not simply a code reader ) would give you some live data to view to see if there are any spurious readings...and would have been cheaper than replacing those lambda sensors and fuel pumps.
As a US vehicle, you would be able to buy something more intended for that market, as generic OBD would have more limitations. At least this would give you a basis to work from.
An intake air leak is also plausible...as could something as simple as poor maintenance. Plugs, leads, the usual.
http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/index.ph...
https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/
Edited by stevieturbo on Sunday 1st April 12:14
Edited by stevieturbo on Sunday 1st April 12:17
Singlepoint or multipoint gas? Singlepoint might be torn diaphragm causing air leak, multipoint could be leaking injector, have you changed plugs and ht components? Lpg easily halves their operating life.
A stethoscope is a good tool for diagnosing air leaks.
Also, even if it isnt an lpg fault lpg garages tend to be more experienced in the yank stuff as they see it more often than general garages if you cant find a local us specialist.
A stethoscope is a good tool for diagnosing air leaks.
Also, even if it isnt an lpg fault lpg garages tend to be more experienced in the yank stuff as they see it more often than general garages if you cant find a local us specialist.
E-bmw said:
Extremely likely to be an induction air leak after what you have already done. As has been said before sany competent mechanic should be able to diagnose it rather than just plug a computer in that says nothing & willy-nilly change "could be" bits at great expense.
Unfortunately proper mechanics are getting thin on the ground these days.
Unfortunately proper mechanics are getting thin on the ground these days.
OldGermanHeaps said:
Singlepoint or multipoint gas? Singlepoint might be torn diaphragm causing air leak, multipoint could be leaking injector, have you changed plugs and ht components? Lpg easily halves their operating life.
A stethoscope is a good tool for diagnosing air leaks.
Also, even if it isnt an lpg fault lpg garages tend to be more experienced in the yank stuff as they see it more often than general garages if you cant find a local us specialist.
A stethoscope is a good tool for diagnosing air leaks.
Also, even if it isnt an lpg fault lpg garages tend to be more experienced in the yank stuff as they see it more often than general garages if you cant find a local us specialist.
Does it on petrol worse than gas sometimes on petrol it drops out on low revs like coming to a stop I have to drop into neutral if driving and restart without powered steering if it catches me out on a roundabout or junction it’s hard. Never drops out on gas and runs better but sometimes erratic.
This morning it was crap but later in the day not erratic at all drove perfect. I’m at a loss with it and no codes
This morning it was crap but later in the day not erratic at all drove perfect. I’m at a loss with it and no codes
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