Starting problems, Essex V6
Discussion
I’m looking for some help, I’ve just bought a reliant scimitar that I’ve been told has been sat for 7 years and is missing a water pump, after changing the spark plugs, fitting a water pump and checking the oil (which was almost full and looked very good) I’ve tried starting it with a screwdriver (as there is no interior) and I’m getting a ticking from the bottom of the passenger side engine, which I assume is the starter.
I figure it’s a faulty starter motor but the timing belt moves a little when I first turn the key, about a mm, and then the clicking continues.
Any advice on what it could be would be great, thanks.
Daniel
I figure it’s a faulty starter motor but the timing belt moves a little when I first turn the key, about a mm, and then the clicking continues.
Any advice on what it could be would be great, thanks.
Daniel
I tried it last night and it didn’t even tick so I charged the battery overnight, it has half charge which should be enough too at least start it. I haven’t tried it by hand but the previous owner told me he had, and if it was seized it wouldn’t even move the few mill that it is would it?
drcox99 said:
it has half charge
I don't know what that means. Check the voltage at the battery and at the starter. The battery should show at least 12.5V at rest and at least 9V while cranking, and the starter should be similar.If the engine hasn't run for a long time it would be worth bumping it over just to make sure it is free to turn.
drcox99 said:
I tried it last night and it didn’t even tick so I charged the battery overnight, it has half charge which should be enough too at least start it.
Not necessarily.If a battery is knackered it may not take a charge.
It would be better to know the voltage, as stated a few posts above. Have you got access to a multi meter?
drcox99 said:
I haven’t tried it by hand but the previous owner told me he had, and if it was seized it wouldn’t even move the few mill that it is would it?
Maybe not, but I wouldn't take his word for it, I'd want to see for myself that it will turn over as it should before diagnosing anything else.it might be worth trying to turn it over without any plugs in, and a drop of oil in each bore. they will be dry as a bone after 7 years and there might be a bit of tightness that removing the compression and turning it over .can help free up. Wedge a rag into each spark plug oil otherwise if it does turn over it will shoot oil all over your garage wall
What state your plugs are in has 100% no relation to whether you have enough compression, no idea where you got that one from.
Blackened means when the engine was last running, the mixture was probably rich, which could just be that it was running on choke.
However you aren't even turning the engine over yet, so don't worry about plugs.
You are either using a flat battery (without a meter you can't be sure unless it is off a perfectly running & serviceable car) or your wiring to the starter is goosed or the starter is goosed.
Start by removing/cleaning & redoing EVERY major 12v or earth wire/connection in/on/around the battery/charging/starting circuits.
Then get a known good battery.
Then try again with all plugs out to get some oil throughout the engine & with any luck get some petrol through from the fuel pump.
Then & only then is it worth trying to actually start it.
Blackened means when the engine was last running, the mixture was probably rich, which could just be that it was running on choke.
However you aren't even turning the engine over yet, so don't worry about plugs.
You are either using a flat battery (without a meter you can't be sure unless it is off a perfectly running & serviceable car) or your wiring to the starter is goosed or the starter is goosed.
Start by removing/cleaning & redoing EVERY major 12v or earth wire/connection in/on/around the battery/charging/starting circuits.
Then get a known good battery.
Then try again with all plugs out to get some oil throughout the engine & with any luck get some petrol through from the fuel pump.
Then & only then is it worth trying to actually start it.
Essex V6 doesn't have a timing belt.
The camshaft is gear driven off the crankshaft.
The camshaft gear is the larger of the two & will normally have either fibre or nylon teeth.
Fully charge your battery.
Check that any earth straps from engine to chassis are in good condition & that the earth wire from the battery is also in good condition & its connections are clean.
Same applies to the live wires.
Easiest way to check the earths is to connect a jump lead directly from the battery neg to a good clean point on the engine & then try turning it over again
Many Scimitar electrical system troubles are due to faulty earths as being a grp body much is earthed by wire.
When I had mine (1970 SE5) two of the most useful tools were a couple of 12' lengths of wire with a crocodile clip at each end.
If you haven't already I would suggest the RSSOC. Active owner's club, plenty of info & 'how tos' on the forums
https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/
The camshaft is gear driven off the crankshaft.
The camshaft gear is the larger of the two & will normally have either fibre or nylon teeth.
Fully charge your battery.
Check that any earth straps from engine to chassis are in good condition & that the earth wire from the battery is also in good condition & its connections are clean.
Same applies to the live wires.
Easiest way to check the earths is to connect a jump lead directly from the battery neg to a good clean point on the engine & then try turning it over again
Many Scimitar electrical system troubles are due to faulty earths as being a grp body much is earthed by wire.
When I had mine (1970 SE5) two of the most useful tools were a couple of 12' lengths of wire with a crocodile clip at each end.
If you haven't already I would suggest the RSSOC. Active owner's club, plenty of info & 'how tos' on the forums
https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/
Edited by paintman on Thursday 12th April 22:31
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