Should I Loctite the cam sprocket bolt?
Discussion
stevieturbo said:
Maybe, maybe not....
Maybe a better question, is there any reason not to loctite it ?
The reason not to Loctite it is the possible difficulty in removing it from inside the camshafts threaded hole when I come to change the oil seal in the futureMaybe a better question, is there any reason not to loctite it ?
Ok thanks, I will Loctite it
Sardonicus said:
Medium strength not hard setting, like advised already why not 
I would/do
Thanks for your suggestion I would/do Mmmm, I was bound to go wrong somewhere, I had been struggling to buy Loctite and when seeing a large red one the other day I bought it and used it on the flywheel bolts yesterday, the bottle isn't in front of me right now but I am almost certain it had 270 on it
http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8...
That's me deep in it in the future...Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C
dont recall them having anything on there post manufacture anyway Ok thanks for the replies, we all do things our own way but I don't have a way and that's why I asked, I've only rebuilt 2 engines in the past
Some do use Loctite, some ask why not and others mention they would
The "No" from an engine man that knows this engine and another engine man that knows it agreeing with him has been the deciding factor
None of this means that other engines camshaft bolts don't need threadlock
Much appreciated
Some do use Loctite, some ask why not and others mention they would
The "No" from an engine man that knows this engine and another engine man that knows it agreeing with him has been the deciding factor
None of this means that other engines camshaft bolts don't need threadlock
Much appreciated
Penelope Stopit said:
Ok thanks for the replies, we all do things our own way but I don't have a way and that's why I asked, I've only rebuilt 2 engines in the past
Some do use Loctite, some ask why not and others mention they would
The "No" from an engine man that knows this engine and another engine man that knows it agreeing with him has been the deciding factor
None of this means that other engines camshaft bolts don't need threadlock
Much appreciated
I only meant 270 is a little over the top Some do use Loctite, some ask why not and others mention they would
The "No" from an engine man that knows this engine and another engine man that knows it agreeing with him has been the deciding factor
None of this means that other engines camshaft bolts don't need threadlock
Much appreciated
but if you used it already you will be fine 
stevieturbo said:
I was thinking the No was a wind up after you'd already done it lol.
Really...a bit of thread lock is never going to make it impossible for you to undo it later.
Oh no, maybe it is a jokeReally...a bit of thread lock is never going to make it impossible for you to undo it later.
I know what you mean by a bit doing no harm
What about the Loctite 270 that I used by mistake on the 8 flywheel bolt? Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C, that's hot that is
Sardonicus said:
only meant 270 is a little over the top but if you used it already you will be fine
Crossed posts yet again but if you used it already you will be fine Sardonicus, what do you think about my mistake with Loctite 270 on the flywheel bolts?
I removed the flywheel to fit a new crank oil seal, I already had the problem of having to re-use the flywheel bolts, they may never need to come out but.....Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C is a touch hot for me, surely that heat could damage the crank shaft
If the bolts are small....heat will probably be needed.
If you applied loads of loctite...heat will probably be needed.
If the bolts are large with no fear of socket rounding etc, then brute force will usually loosen even well thread locked parts.
So it really just depends.
Worst case a good blowtorch might be needed.
If you applied loads of loctite...heat will probably be needed.
If the bolts are large with no fear of socket rounding etc, then brute force will usually loosen even well thread locked parts.
So it really just depends.
Worst case a good blowtorch might be needed.
stevieturbo said:
If the bolts are small....heat will probably be needed.
If you applied loads of loctite...heat will probably be needed.
If the bolts are large with no fear of socket rounding etc, then brute force will usually loosen even well thread locked parts.
So it really just depends.
Worst case a good blowtorch might be needed.
This ^ if you changed the rear crank main seal already you probably wont be needing to do that for some time again like at least 100/150k miles plus ,, dont worry If you applied loads of loctite...heat will probably be needed.
If the bolts are large with no fear of socket rounding etc, then brute force will usually loosen even well thread locked parts.
So it really just depends.
Worst case a good blowtorch might be needed.
its not like its a dual mass flywheel that needs perioic changing the fly you have fitted should outlast the car inc the engine 
XUD engine's rule right? Sardonicus said:
stevieturbo said:
If the bolts are small....heat will probably be needed.
If you applied loads of loctite...heat will probably be needed.
If the bolts are large with no fear of socket rounding etc, then brute force will usually loosen even well thread locked parts.
So it really just depends.
Worst case a good blowtorch might be needed.
This ^ if you changed the rear crank main seal already you probably wont be needing to do that for some time again like at least 100/150k miles plus ,, dont worry If you applied loads of loctite...heat will probably be needed.
If the bolts are large with no fear of socket rounding etc, then brute force will usually loosen even well thread locked parts.
So it really just depends.
Worst case a good blowtorch might be needed.
its not like its a dual mass flywheel that needs perioic changing the fly you have fitted should outlast the car inc the engine XUD engine's rule right? "That was a proper deadbeat job that I did"
Yes XUD engines are great, over the last few weeks I have fallen in love with my second-hand XUD and will definitely be looking after it, obviously this depends upon whether this XUD works or not
Thank you once again, I will no doubt be back to extract more knowledge from you professionals
Money is a necessary evil, knowledge is everything
Basic bolt theory. Bolts don't come undone because they stretch when torqued up and act like springs which maintain a constant tension on the fitment. Loctite is generally only needed when bolts are very short and so can't stretch much (flywheel bolts) or are screwed into soft materials which don't allow a high enough torque setting to stretch them enough. "Short" in this instance is generally anything much under 2x thread diameter. The Pug cam pulley bolt is long enough to not need loctite.
Mignon said:
Basic bolt theory. Bolts don't come undone because they stretch when torqued up and act like springs which maintain a constant tension on the fitment. Loctite is generally only needed when bolts are very short and so can't stretch much (flywheel bolts) or are screwed into soft materials which don't allow a high enough torque setting to stretch them enough. "Short" in this instance is generally anything much under 2x thread diameter. The Pug cam pulley bolt is long enough to not need loctite.
This is a very good explanation"Basic bolt theory" to you but not to me, I have never ever considered something so simple yet so important
Thank you very much
Please keep them coming, never stop, if knowledge isn't shared the world is f
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