Rover V8 hydraulic lifter/tappet adjustment?

[geeman237]

I am about to replace the camshaft and lifters/tappets on my 4.0 TVR Griffith pre-cat.
I have read about maybe having to check/adjust the tappets.
I found this video on Youtube. Does this method apply to the Rover v8 with hyrdaulic tappets too?
https://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw

[GreenV8S]

I've only skimmed that video but he seems to be talking about setting up adjustable rockers. If you have the original type rockers they would be non-adjustable and the preload will be set using shims under the pedestals. You would normally assemble the engine dry, measure the preload on each lifter in turn when it is off the lobe (e.g. using a calibrated wire to measure the gap between the lifter piston and the retaining circlip) and work out what you need to swap around or add/remove from the pedestals to get all the preloads about right.

[Boosted LS1]

I've got a paperclip with a flattened end for the very purpose. Set it with a micrometer at say .035 or whatever your target is and it's simple.

[Belle427]

I used the method below as trying to measure at the lifter itself i found next to impossible.
Mine were over the amounts specified so i managed to shim the pedestals to get around 60 thou from memory.
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_tr...

[paintman]

geeman237 said:

I am about to replace the camshaft and lifters/tappets on my 4.0 TVR Griffith pre-cat.
I have read about maybe having to check/adjust the tappets.
I found this video on Youtube. Does this method apply to the Rover v8 with hyrdaulic tappets too?
https://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw

No. The Rover V8 has a different rocker assembly so you can ignore that video.
This youtube might be of interest & is what I would be expecting to see once you've got the rocker covers, inlet manifold & valley gasket off :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX-r3AF825Y
The timing chain is shot & I would replace it & both its sprockets as they will also be worn.
Use new rocker cover gaskets, the rubber ones are much better than the old cork composites.



Follow the advice given in the above posts. If necessary you put shims under the pillars to get as near as you can to the recommended tolerances.
If you do need to shim the same thickness shim must be under ALL the pedestals on whichever side of the V you are doing.
There have been a number of online 'how tos' by the producers of the link in Belle427's post using various business names. This is one of their older ones showing the use of the bent & flattened wire which I would suggest is more accurate: http://www.v8wizard.com/camshafts_Setting_Tappet_P...

UNLESS someone has fitted something like these or any similar gizmos in which case all bets are off & you would need to get & follow the instructions for the particular items:
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=533
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=422 These might require some modification to the heads.

Bear in mind that good lubrication is vital - I used Kent cams cam lube when I replaced the camshaft & followers on my RRC 3.5 last year - and on starting the engine must be run for a set period at set revs or you may well damage the new cam & followers.

Note that if you are reusing the old cam that the followers MUST go back where they came from.
If fitting a new cam you must replace it AND the followers as they wear together & fitting old & new is likely to damage the new item & you get to do it all over again.

When you've got the rocker assembly off strip it & give it a thorough clean. As I took each bit off I cleaned it then put it on a length of dowel so it went back onto the shaft in the same position. Amazing how much cr8p builds up in the passageways of the rocker shaft & the arms - I used a toothpick to loosen the muck in the arms.

ETA This is RPi's v8 engine bit. Worth a read. I've never used them for parts so don't know what they're like as a supplier.
http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm

Edited by paintman on Friday 23 November 11:50

[Steve_D]

Paintman has it covered but I would emphasise the running in bit.
Get everything ready including extra coolant etc.
Start the engine and take it straight to 2500 RPM and keep it there for 20 minutes.
It will scare the st out of you, the manifolds will glow cherry red but it must be done.
If you get a leak or something kill the engine, resolve the problem and go again for the remainder of the 20 minutes.

If it is a pre-serp you must prime the oil pump first.

Enjoy NOT.

Steve

[Belle427]

Just out of interest why would you consider using a piece of wire in the lifter more accurate than the measuring at pedestal method?

[stevieturbo]

Belle427 said:

Just out of interest why would you consider using a piece of wire in the lifter more accurate than the measuring at pedestal method?

It removes all guesswork, and you're measuring at the point where you're trying to create the distance.

[Steve_D]

Belle427 said:

Just out of interest why would you consider using a piece of wire in the lifter more accurate than the measuring at pedestal method?

You need to know the measurement for each lifter then you can work out an average size of shim to use under the pedestal bearing in mind you must use the same size shim under all 4.

You may also arrive at a set of measurements where one (or more) are on the tight side and others too slack so shimming is not possible. In which case you have to go adjustable pushrods. This has happened to me twice.

Steve

[Belle427]

Makes me wonder how big the clearances are on these engines when assembled from new.

[Steve_D]

Belle427 said:

Makes me wonder how big the clearances are on these engines when assembled from new.

They are fine from new as the lifter deals with any small differences and continues to do so as things wear.
But, valves will wear and recess into the head and at some time require the shims. But they wear at different rates which may mean one shim size can no longer work.

Steve

[geeman237]

Thanks all.....I think.... I've not tackled any engine work like this before and I am getting rather concerned about accurately taking the measurements. What do you use for shimming material if needed and what shape/profile should it take?

I have a new cam kit comprising of camshaft, lifters, valley gasket, valve cover gasket, front cover seal, and timing gears & chain.
The neighbours are going to love the 2500rpm bit for 20 mins......

[Boosted LS1]

You can buy a pack of shims from Real Steel. You'll get 3 sets of 8 differing thicknesses.

[Belle427]

Boosted LS1 said:

You can buy a pack of shims from Real Steel. You'll get 3 sets of 8 differing thicknesses.

That’s where I got mine. It would be interesting if you could measure your existing preload before taking it all apart.

[Sardonicus]

Or lighter adj push-rods

[Boosted LS1]

Belle427 said:

Boosted LS1 said:

You can buy a pack of shims from Real Steel. You'll get 3 sets of 8 differing thicknesses.

That’s where I got mine. It would be interesting if you could measure your existing preload before taking it all apart.

That's what I'd do. They may be in the ballpark.