Corsa D Swirl flaps MOT failure
Discussion
hi
looking for some advice here
my 2007 corsa d 16v had its MOT the other day and has failed on emissions but only at idle .
the garage which tested it plugged it into their diagnostics reader and got a code of P2008 which relates to the swirl flaps (didnt even know about them until then ), garage suggested they may have became stuck in the open position .
i can move them freely with the arm on top of the manifold , when the engine is off the naturally go as far left (when stood facing the car from the front) then as soon as you start the car they go all the way to the right , is this normal for these flaps , dont know which direction would be their closed position . anything else that could be a fairly easy thing to do , im trying to avoid having to get a garage to do it ,although with getting into the relms of computer managed electronics kinda gets a bit over my head .
looking for some advice here
my 2007 corsa d 16v had its MOT the other day and has failed on emissions but only at idle .
the garage which tested it plugged it into their diagnostics reader and got a code of P2008 which relates to the swirl flaps (didnt even know about them until then ), garage suggested they may have became stuck in the open position .
i can move them freely with the arm on top of the manifold , when the engine is off the naturally go as far left (when stood facing the car from the front) then as soon as you start the car they go all the way to the right , is this normal for these flaps , dont know which direction would be their closed position . anything else that could be a fairly easy thing to do , im trying to avoid having to get a garage to do it ,although with getting into the relms of computer managed electronics kinda gets a bit over my head .
daniels471 said:
Just checked that this morning,only one and is functioning fine
I do wonder that someone who needs to ask the original question here....would have the means to actually test if the lambda sensor is "functioning fine"How fast is it switching at idle ? Have you an oscilloscope trace of it ? Heater circuit working correctly ?
And also compared same tests at fast idle ?
And it would seem unusual for a car of that age to have only one when typically they will have one before and after the cat.
Things are not adding up here.
Well I admit I do have limited availability of tools here . I was using a OBD2 reader which showed a live data graph ,and did show the voltage going between the range which I have read online , can't see any figures on the frequency of oscillations but they do get significantly closer at fast idle
A generic OBD reader will not review data fast enough to be of much use.
Not totally useless...but not a great tool either and often misleading. So they need to be used with caution, especially for the inexperienced.
Nor will it tell you if the actual voltage output is slightly off, which will have a large effect on fueling. A difference of a few millivolts is all it will take so an old or even just slow sensor could be the cause of problems.
Without proper test equipment there is no easy solution for you.
A new front sensor would be the easiest option to try, but may not guarantee a fix. It could be a cat problem itself......but this would be a very expensive option and as you still havent posted hydrocarbon data, impossible to comment on whether this aspect was borderline or an easy pass to suggest if there may be other concerns.
It would be good to take it for a good hard run so everything is well warmed up and then do an emissions test....but I would guess you dont have a gas analyser to try this.
But this alone has been a cost free solution to some such MOT failures.
Without an ability to test stuff, it's back to throwing parts at it....but then you cannot test to see of those parts made a difference other than paying a garage again.
On the swirl flaps....you could pull the manifold off the visually check if these are still in place and capable of working via the linkage and actuators outside. With proper ecu software you could probably test the actuators and mech outside too.
But that's a lot of work to take apart, albeit if DIY it's just your own time and possibly some gaskets. I'd doubt it is the problem though.
Not totally useless...but not a great tool either and often misleading. So they need to be used with caution, especially for the inexperienced.
Nor will it tell you if the actual voltage output is slightly off, which will have a large effect on fueling. A difference of a few millivolts is all it will take so an old or even just slow sensor could be the cause of problems.
Without proper test equipment there is no easy solution for you.
A new front sensor would be the easiest option to try, but may not guarantee a fix. It could be a cat problem itself......but this would be a very expensive option and as you still havent posted hydrocarbon data, impossible to comment on whether this aspect was borderline or an easy pass to suggest if there may be other concerns.
It would be good to take it for a good hard run so everything is well warmed up and then do an emissions test....but I would guess you dont have a gas analyser to try this.
But this alone has been a cost free solution to some such MOT failures.
Without an ability to test stuff, it's back to throwing parts at it....but then you cannot test to see of those parts made a difference other than paying a garage again.
On the swirl flaps....you could pull the manifold off the visually check if these are still in place and capable of working via the linkage and actuators outside. With proper ecu software you could probably test the actuators and mech outside too.
But that's a lot of work to take apart, albeit if DIY it's just your own time and possibly some gaskets. I'd doubt it is the problem though.
Edited by stevieturbo on Saturday 16th February 11:30
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