timing belt fiesta 1.6 16v zetec??
Discussion
looks like my 1995 1.6 16v si has got a leaking water pump. with this car its a case of taking the timing belt off to change the pump so may as well get a belt kit too.
i took the cam cover off and saw the cam gears and belt and noticed this:
there are white paint marks on the cam gears. what are these marks for? i do know that the cam belt was last changed in 2006 so its gone over the 10 year mark for renewal time even though its only done around 40k miles since then.
i took the cam cover off and saw the cam gears and belt and noticed this:
there are white paint marks on the cam gears. what are these marks for? i do know that the cam belt was last changed in 2006 so its gone over the 10 year mark for renewal time even though its only done around 40k miles since then.
Ahh ok. Does that mean i can reuse those marking when i do the belt change myself?
I have ordered a camshaft locking tool which seems to be a flat bar you put on the back of the cam shafts taking the valve cover off.
Does the crank shaft need to be locked or does it stay in place itself?
How is best to remove crank pulley? Lock cams first then use breaker bar on the pulley?
I have ordered a camshaft locking tool which seems to be a flat bar you put on the back of the cam shafts taking the valve cover off.
Does the crank shaft need to be locked or does it stay in place itself?
How is best to remove crank pulley? Lock cams first then use breaker bar on the pulley?
This can be a tricky engine to do. - I bent the valves on a customers on when I first started, so you'll need the instructions, the locking tools, a big impact wrench, and to know what you're doing. The crank pulley is fully floating, and is only held in place by the auxiliary belt pulley.
Have a peak on you tube, someone on there will have made a video on what to do, but if you're not confident, get it done elsewhere. It's better than bending the valves.
Have a peak on you tube, someone on there will have made a video on what to do, but if you're not confident, get it done elsewhere. It's better than bending the valves.
bearman68 said:
This can be a tricky engine to do. - I bent the valves on a customers on when I first started, so you'll need the instructions, the locking tools, a big impact wrench, and to know what you're doing. The crank pulley is fully floating, and is only held in place by the auxiliary belt pulley.
Have a peak on you tube, someone on there will have made a video on what to do, but if you're not confident, get it done elsewhere. It's better than bending the valves.
Same with me,its very important to use the locking tools and follow the correct procedure on this engine. "Tip" dont use the crank locking pin to undo or tighten the crank pulley bolt,you will bend it and then be unable to remove it from the cylinder block.Have a peak on you tube, someone on there will have made a video on what to do, but if you're not confident, get it done elsewhere. It's better than bending the valves.
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Edited by Old Merc on Wednesday 29th May 10:10
thanks for the replies guys. im not in a rush to fix this car since i do have another one to drive around in. so i can take my time with this and get it done right.
from what iv read up people say not to put the belt on and then just crank it over. they say to first triple check everything is aligned up and even say to use some tippex to mark the cam sprockets and crank to make sure nothing goes out of alignment.
iv also read that its best to turn the engine over by hand first for the first few revolutions and then check if everything is back in alignment. i suppose its only game over if its cranked over when its out of alignment.
im guessing its best not to take the original belt off without marking things up first.
either way iv not started yet but have got the belt kit, water pump and alignment tools on order. good thing i posted on this forum first for input from others.
iv had the car now for 21 years, so dont want to kill it off due to leaking water pump or due to me doing a dodgey belt change.
when i changed the valve cover gasket couple of years ago everything looked good inside. over the 21 years of ownership its has oil changes done ever 5k miles.
from what iv read up people say not to put the belt on and then just crank it over. they say to first triple check everything is aligned up and even say to use some tippex to mark the cam sprockets and crank to make sure nothing goes out of alignment.
iv also read that its best to turn the engine over by hand first for the first few revolutions and then check if everything is back in alignment. i suppose its only game over if its cranked over when its out of alignment.
im guessing its best not to take the original belt off without marking things up first.
either way iv not started yet but have got the belt kit, water pump and alignment tools on order. good thing i posted on this forum first for input from others.
iv had the car now for 21 years, so dont want to kill it off due to leaking water pump or due to me doing a dodgey belt change.
when i changed the valve cover gasket couple of years ago everything looked good inside. over the 21 years of ownership its has oil changes done ever 5k miles.
this is the locking kit i have ordered for my car:
iv even read posts where one buy didnt take the crank pulley off and just heated up a screwdriver with a blowtorch and cut the lower cam cover in half then the bolts that hold the bottom cam cover in when undone split the lower cover in half so it comes off without dealing with the crank pulley.
i will probably just take the pulley off since iv got an electric impact wrench on order.
iv even read posts where one buy didnt take the crank pulley off and just heated up a screwdriver with a blowtorch and cut the lower cam cover in half then the bolts that hold the bottom cam cover in when undone split the lower cover in half so it comes off without dealing with the crank pulley.
i will probably just take the pulley off since iv got an electric impact wrench on order.
I guess its a 1995 Fiesta si with the early silver top zetec engine fitted? In which case the crank pulley is keyed. The crank gets marked, locking bar across the slots in the cams and then slacken off the torx bolts on the cam pulleys.
I think there also used to be a cambelt tensioner mod on the early ones where you fitted a bolt in the head to allow a spring to be fitted to tensioner to allow correct belt tension.
The floating crank pulleys were the later 1.25 and 1.6 zetecs I believe.
I think there also used to be a cambelt tensioner mod on the early ones where you fitted a bolt in the head to allow a spring to be fitted to tensioner to allow correct belt tension.
The floating crank pulleys were the later 1.25 and 1.6 zetecs I believe.
yes it is a 1995 fiesta si silvertop. pics:
haynes manual doesnt mention slackening off the cam gears and says to just use the locking bar at the back of the cams and take belt off. says to use a t50 torx for the tensioner pulley with 6mm allen key.
but the more input i get on this the better.
also as Scortedvan said the crank pulley is keyed by which i understand to be it has a notch in it and only goes on in one direction. pic:
diagram helps a lot but i still dont get how the tensioner works? does it get bolted on first then turned towards the right to push up against the belt?
haynes manual doesnt mention slackening off the cam gears and says to just use the locking bar at the back of the cams and take belt off. says to use a t50 torx for the tensioner pulley with 6mm allen key.
but the more input i get on this the better.
also as Scortedvan said the crank pulley is keyed by which i understand to be it has a notch in it and only goes on in one direction. pic:
diagram helps a lot but i still dont get how the tensioner works? does it get bolted on first then turned towards the right to push up against the belt?
Edited by slybunda on Wednesday 29th May 22:39
So when fitting the belt, you don't have to undo the torx bolts on the cams. The idea is just to ensure the timing is absolute, without you can have a degree or so either way after tensioning, but it really wont be noticeable in this application. But then if you don't slacken the pulleys, then you may aswell just paint mark the pulleys and not take the cam cover of to fit the locking bar - this is needed to hold the cams whilst the pulleys are freewheeling. But if you don't slacken them then no real need.
Basically just follow whatever guide you have and it will be fine!
Also note the spring on the tensioner in your diagram. This is the mod I referred to previously. Its more than likely that you have this fitted already and again its not essential but does make fitment easier. The idea being that without the spring mod, you have to tension the belt by feel which is fine but subjective.
With the spring, the spring sets the belt tension and you can then just torque the tensioner down (although having said that I always add a fraction more tension than the spring alone but thats just me).
Basically just follow whatever guide you have and it will be fine!
Also note the spring on the tensioner in your diagram. This is the mod I referred to previously. Its more than likely that you have this fitted already and again its not essential but does make fitment easier. The idea being that without the spring mod, you have to tension the belt by feel which is fine but subjective.
With the spring, the spring sets the belt tension and you can then just torque the tensioner down (although having said that I always add a fraction more tension than the spring alone but thats just me).
thanks Scortedvan, the video i saw on youtube of someone changing the belt did as you described. they put paint marks on the cam pulleys and crank gear and on the old belt teeth. then by holding the old belt next to the new one he copied the paint marks from old belt to the new belt and then when he put the new belt on he made sure all the paint markings were aligning up.
the video i saw of someone who undid the cam sprocket bolts and use the locking bar was someone who did a head gasket job on the car so had everything apart.
here is a pic of all the bolts etc in the kit:
the video i saw of someone who undid the cam sprocket bolts and use the locking bar was someone who did a head gasket job on the car so had everything apart.
here is a pic of all the bolts etc in the kit:
INA make bearing and their bearings are stamped and they use other peoples belts in their kits, Gates make belts (branded such) and use other peoples bearings and ford make cars and brand some belts and kits.
I've just done a 2l blacktop without slackening off the cam pulleys, based on various online mutterings, and I can't see how that can be worse than any engine with keyed on pulleys. I locked the cams with a 5mm plate (actually some 4mm and thick cardnto shim) but then paintpen marked it all with tipex and checked new belt to old, crank didn't move and nor did the cams obviously. Happy days, although with all that said I've not started the engine yet!
Daniel
I've just done a 2l blacktop without slackening off the cam pulleys, based on various online mutterings, and I can't see how that can be worse than any engine with keyed on pulleys. I locked the cams with a 5mm plate (actually some 4mm and thick cardnto shim) but then paintpen marked it all with tipex and checked new belt to old, crank didn't move and nor did the cams obviously. Happy days, although with all that said I've not started the engine yet!
Daniel
Am i right in thinking that the spring for the tensioner doesnt provide constant tensioning for the belt as it ages like the alternator belt tensioner does? The spring is used to just set initial tension then you lock the tensioner in place?
From holding the tensioner in my hand i just cant work out if its a constantly adjusting type of tensioner.
From holding the tensioner in my hand i just cant work out if its a constantly adjusting type of tensioner.
As I understand it, and the blacktop is slightly different, the spring is just to help get the initial tension right, it's then locked off like any other timing belt tensioner.
Crank stays still duento friction I guess, mainly frommthe pistons/rings, as there is nothing to make it move, and they push against the bore. Unlike the cam shafts which have the valve springs which means they settle into certain positions.
Crank stays still duento friction I guess, mainly frommthe pistons/rings, as there is nothing to make it move, and they push against the bore. Unlike the cam shafts which have the valve springs which means they settle into certain positions.
Both correct - the blacktops have an auto tensioner so you set initial tension and it will continually adjust to maintain that tension whilst running.
The silver tops as you say, you fit the tensioner and spring and make sure its all the way across to the untensioned side and bip the bolt to hold it in place.
Fit the belt anticlockwise making sure all the slack is on the tensioner side and then slacken the tensioner bolt. The spring will pull the tensioner to the the belt, thus setting the correct tension.
Then torque down the tensioner ( but as i say i always add a little bit of tension). The spring is now redundant, its just there to assist with inital fitmnet.
Just crack on with it mate, it will all make sense when you take it apart.
The silver tops as you say, you fit the tensioner and spring and make sure its all the way across to the untensioned side and bip the bolt to hold it in place.
Fit the belt anticlockwise making sure all the slack is on the tensioner side and then slacken the tensioner bolt. The spring will pull the tensioner to the the belt, thus setting the correct tension.
Then torque down the tensioner ( but as i say i always add a little bit of tension). The spring is now redundant, its just there to assist with inital fitmnet.
Just crack on with it mate, it will all make sense when you take it apart.
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