HONDA D17A2 engine help wanted
HONDA D17A2 engine help wanted
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freshwateriow

Original Poster:

3 posts

76 months

Sunday 24th November 2019
quotequote all
I am looking to sort my daughters Honda FRV it is a 2006 with a 1.7 V-TEC D17A2 engine. It had a spun big end bearing on the cylinder closed to the pulley end. I replaced the shell bearings on all big ends but the one that had failed went again after a few miles. I stripped the bottom end off and found that the big end bearing at the flywheel end had plenty of oil on the shell bearings the opposite end (where the original fault occurred) had very little oil.
I tried to rig a temporary sump to pump oil to see if there was oil flowing through the pump and to the crank big end bearing journals but that did no go according to plan, temporary sump fitted and turned engine over by hand and the oil was not drawn up by the pump (I have the crank bearing support assembly removed as well). I now assume the oil is drawn from the sump through the strainer by the oil pump and then goes through the oil filter not straight to the crank as I first thought. Anyone know how the oil is routed to the crank and then the big end journals and how to confirm oil is fed to the journal. Is there a recommended way of flushing to clear any sludge or blockage. Thanks in advance.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

307 months

Sunday 24th November 2019
quotequote all
All oil feeds are fed by the pump via galleries in the block and crank.

There are many problems that can cause oil starvation. Problems on the supply side usually result in low oil pressure. Blocked oil galleries are less likely but impossible to prove or fix without stripping the engine.

stevieturbo

17,965 posts

270 months

Sunday 24th November 2019
quotequote all
freshwateriow said:
I am looking to sort my daughters Honda FRV it is a 2006 with a 1.7 V-TEC D17A2 engine. It had a spun big end bearing on the cylinder closed to the pulley end. I replaced the shell bearings on all big ends but the one that had failed went again after a few miles. I stripped the bottom end off and found that the big end bearing at the flywheel end had plenty of oil on the shell bearings the opposite end (where the original fault occurred) had very little oil.
I tried to rig a temporary sump to pump oil to see if there was oil flowing through the pump and to the crank big end bearing journals but that did no go according to plan, temporary sump fitted and turned engine over by hand and the oil was not drawn up by the pump (I have the crank bearing support assembly removed as well). I now assume the oil is drawn from the sump through the strainer by the oil pump and then goes through the oil filter not straight to the crank as I first thought. Anyone know how the oil is routed to the crank and then the big end journals and how to confirm oil is fed to the journal. Is there a recommended way of flushing to clear any sludge or blockage. Thanks in advance.
No surprise it spun again. You should never just replace a bearing anywhere that has spun.
Either the rod needs replaced, or if it is possible, having it re-machined and re-circled might be an option. ALthough the best option is always a new rod.

And obviously oil is drawn via the strainer/sump, into the pump, then filter, then main oil galleries. Same for any engine.

Galleries in block feed relevant parts, oil goes to main journals then this in turn feeds the big ends, same for every engine.

freshwateriow

Original Poster:

3 posts

76 months

Sunday 24th November 2019
quotequote all
Thanks for the quick response.
My daughter had low oil, but no oil pressure warning light came on and the same when I ran the engine at idle after the bearing change. There is only one big end bearing journal which appears to have an oil starvation problem. Would all the big end bearing journals be fed from the same oil feed?
Thanks againdave

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

307 months

Sunday 24th November 2019
quotequote all
freshwateriow said:
There is only one big end bearing journal which appears to have an oil starvation problem.
The oil has multiple parallel paths through the engine. The designers do their best to ensure they all receive an equal flow but it's never perfect. So not surprising that one of the bearings suffers first.

It seems to me that you need to get the engine checked and repaired by somebody competent. There's likely to be more to it than just replacing the odd damaged bearing shell.

stevieturbo

17,965 posts

270 months

Monday 25th November 2019
quotequote all
freshwateriow said:
Thanks for the quick response.
Would all the big end bearing journals be fed from the same oil feed?
Thanks againdave
No, that would be physically impossible.

A reasonable image showing oil flow through a typical engine.

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-typical-gasoline...

freshwateriow

Original Poster:

3 posts

76 months

Monday 25th November 2019
quotequote all
Thanks for the update on the oil flow, looks like a blockage in the oil way. I will give an engine flush, replace the oil and filter. I may be lucky as it only did a few miles. Thanks again Dave

stevieturbo

17,965 posts

270 months

Monday 25th November 2019
quotequote all
Wow.....

Are some text or posts invisible ?

No it will not be ok, no flushing will not achieve anything.

You need at least a new conrod to replace the one where the bearing had spun. Which means the engine needs to come out and be taken apart.
And more than likely all parts, engine block, oil galleries etc cleaned properly.

A bearing spinning in any part of the engine is no small issue. If it's got to the stage where it has actually spun, that is major damage.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

307 months

Monday 25th November 2019
quotequote all
freshwateriow said:
I will give an engine flush, replace the oil and filter. I may be lucky as it only did a few miles.
Not sure why you're thanking people for advice since you seem to be ignoring it.

If the alternative is scrapping the engine, you have nothing to lose but your time and parts. If you actually want the engine saved, what you're doing isn't likely to fix it but every time you try to run the engine to see whether it's fixed risks increasing the damage.

The best way to fix the engine is to take it out and have it sorted out by somebody competent.