Discussion
Hectors house said:
Hi
Does anyone no on a DTA E48 ECU with a stand alone ignition system once you got number 1 does it follow the firing order clockwise around cap ???????
What ?Does anyone no on a DTA E48 ECU with a stand alone ignition system once you got number 1 does it follow the firing order clockwise around cap ???????
DTA will fire a coil in relation to crank position and what the user has programmed it to do for any given setup.
A distributor if used...will do what a distributor has always done on that engine.
Although it's usually preferable to bin the dizzy and fit a modern coilpack.
Hectors house said:
Steve
the ecu is programmed 1342 the correct firing order because engine not running when bought it and no leads on the stand alone coil pack how do i no which is no 1 you can t turn engine over by hand and see spark
Dave
So you're now saying it has a coil pack and not a dizzy ?the ecu is programmed 1342 the correct firing order because engine not running when bought it and no leads on the stand alone coil pack how do i no which is no 1 you can t turn engine over by hand and see spark
Dave
If you have no details on the coil, and no information etc...easiest way is to unpin coil output no 2 from the E48 plug, and run a coil test.
Whichever plugs spark, will be cylinders 1 and 4.
Therefore the other two will be 2 and 3.
If you have no laptop or ability to connect to the cu to run an actual test....again, unpin the relevant pin from the ecu connector, and crank the engine and see which plugs ( ie which coil outputs ) are sparking
Edited by stevieturbo on Saturday 14th March 15:18
https://www.dtafast.co.uk/download_files/Wiring_Di...
ie. remove pin 24, and you should only see sparks on cyls 1 and 4.
ie. remove pin 24, and you should only see sparks on cyls 1 and 4.
OK I have firing order sorted and run a test all sparking through rev range
also found lamdba sensor switched off have now switched on
in general engine settings at bottom they say about injector dead time mine are set at 0 is this correct all other things filled in
In my fuel mapping says 3.74@950 revs in real time its 15.0 hence plugs faull up
also found lamdba sensor switched off have now switched on
in general engine settings at bottom they say about injector dead time mine are set at 0 is this correct all other things filled in
In my fuel mapping says 3.74@950 revs in real time its 15.0 hence plugs faull up
Hectors house said:
OK I have firing order sorted and run a test all sparking through rev range
also found lamdba sensor switched off have now switched on
in general engine settings at bottom they say about injector dead time mine are set at 0 is this correct all other things filled in
In my fuel mapping says 3.74@950 revs in real time its 15.0 hence plugs faull up
Turn the lambda off.also found lamdba sensor switched off have now switched on
in general engine settings at bottom they say about injector dead time mine are set at 0 is this correct all other things filled in
In my fuel mapping says 3.74@950 revs in real time its 15.0 hence plugs faull up
If you do not know the dead times for your injectors, just leave it at zero.
Real time is after any compensations have been applied, fuel table is just a base value so depending on temperatures and how the ecu is configured....you will expect real time value to be different, and when cold, expect it to be higher.
At the minute it runs, now it needs tuned.
GreenV8S said:
Yes, but you [should] already know which pairs of cylinders share a coil so there are only two sensible possibilities.
On a combination you've acquired, with no markings etc etc....how would you know other than testing ?Hectors house said:
no not really running because drops cylinders then have to dry plugs
Soaked plugs, throw them in the bin. More often than not, trying to dry soaked plugs is futile and will see you going round in circles.stevieturbo said:
GreenV8S said:
Yes, but you [should] already know which pairs of cylinders share a coil so there are only two sensible possibilities.
On a combination you've acquired, with no markings etc etc....how would you know other than testing ?GreenV8S said:
I'm not sure why you're asking. Surely it must be blindingly obvious which pair of cylinders need to share a wasted spark, and it is trivial to measure continuity across a pair of HT terminals to see which ones are paired, if that isn't obvious from the package.
And it takes only 30 seconds to prove beyond any doubt by doing what I said, as well as proving the coil/ignition system in full actually works.No brainer which method to choose.
Morning thought i posted that that the firing order sorted this is how things are i have fitted a new set of plugs layed them out on a sheet of steel which is earthed and run a test on the ECU all plugs are sparking.Refitted plugs and started engine still same problem running on 2 cylinders switched off removed plugs num1 plug been running dry sooty
num2 not fired wet
num3 been running sooty
num4 not fired wet
all tappet and compressions all fine and valve timing
num2 not fired wet
num3 been running sooty
num4 not fired wet
all tappet and compressions all fine and valve timing
You only need engine to run for a few seconds, to confirm all 4 cylinders are firing.
Plugs should not have any colour at all on them in that time, although if lots of overfueling, they may be wet. But should not be sooty. ( sooty can be an indication of poor spark, as much as overfueling )
But for this brief period on new plugs....even a very badly tuned engine should run well enough to confirm it's on 4 cylinders.
Again, recheck your firing pairs are correct for both ecu pins. Just in case there is a wiring error ?
And do the same visual spark test you mention.
During cranking you could throw a timing light onto it ( plugs out if easier/faster to spin over ) to get some sort of indication of whether base timing is anywhere near correct. ( non dialback light or set to zero will be better for this as there are caveats with wasted spark, but you just need to verify timing is somewhere sensible that it would allow running until you can get it totally correct )
Whilst unlikely the injectors are a problem...is it viable to remove the inlet or injectors/rails away from the engine a little, to get a visual confirmation during cranking all are spraying sensibly ? Obviously ensure injectors cannot come away from the rails during this.
But again...a lot is coming down to the fact this totally unknown and never run setup....you have an expectation that it should run ?
But you do not know if it has ever run or been tuned for the current install ? So there is little expectation it should run correctly ? ( although all 4 cylinders should fire if you're getting two to fire assuming all other wiring etc is correct. )
And any plugs that have been soaked, throw them away. They can very easily have you going round in circles because they can prevent firing whether you think they're dry or not, or whether on a random visual test they appear to fire.
And although it's not running on all 4 yet, presumably you do not have a wideband fitted to get a good picture of actual mixtures ? Even if you're not tuning...this is worth having on the car.
Narrowband lambda......worth very little.....but not totally worthless. Can be useful, but again with some caveats.
Plugs should not have any colour at all on them in that time, although if lots of overfueling, they may be wet. But should not be sooty. ( sooty can be an indication of poor spark, as much as overfueling )
But for this brief period on new plugs....even a very badly tuned engine should run well enough to confirm it's on 4 cylinders.
Again, recheck your firing pairs are correct for both ecu pins. Just in case there is a wiring error ?
And do the same visual spark test you mention.
During cranking you could throw a timing light onto it ( plugs out if easier/faster to spin over ) to get some sort of indication of whether base timing is anywhere near correct. ( non dialback light or set to zero will be better for this as there are caveats with wasted spark, but you just need to verify timing is somewhere sensible that it would allow running until you can get it totally correct )
Whilst unlikely the injectors are a problem...is it viable to remove the inlet or injectors/rails away from the engine a little, to get a visual confirmation during cranking all are spraying sensibly ? Obviously ensure injectors cannot come away from the rails during this.
But again...a lot is coming down to the fact this totally unknown and never run setup....you have an expectation that it should run ?
But you do not know if it has ever run or been tuned for the current install ? So there is little expectation it should run correctly ? ( although all 4 cylinders should fire if you're getting two to fire assuming all other wiring etc is correct. )
And any plugs that have been soaked, throw them away. They can very easily have you going round in circles because they can prevent firing whether you think they're dry or not, or whether on a random visual test they appear to fire.
And although it's not running on all 4 yet, presumably you do not have a wideband fitted to get a good picture of actual mixtures ? Even if you're not tuning...this is worth having on the car.
Narrowband lambda......worth very little.....but not totally worthless. Can be useful, but again with some caveats.
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