Caterham 7 no coolant temp
Discussion
I Have a 2005 Caterham R300 K series. After winter layup engine temp rose alarmingly. No sign of dreaded HGF, engine had a new water pump with cam belt around 600 miles ago.
I removed and tested thermostat in boiling water and it didn't open so replaced it. The old one was stamped 82 degrees so ordered the same from Elsie Parts.
Since refitting the thermostat and refilling cooling system the temp gauge refuses to budge further the about a millimetre off the cold end of the scale, even after several miles. The top house is warm to touch, bottom hose is cool.
I'm concerned the cooling system may be blocked and the engine is actually still overheating and we all know what happens to a K series if you cook it.
Has anyone experienced anything similar?
Thanks in advance
I removed and tested thermostat in boiling water and it didn't open so replaced it. The old one was stamped 82 degrees so ordered the same from Elsie Parts.
Since refitting the thermostat and refilling cooling system the temp gauge refuses to budge further the about a millimetre off the cold end of the scale, even after several miles. The top house is warm to touch, bottom hose is cool.
I'm concerned the cooling system may be blocked and the engine is actually still overheating and we all know what happens to a K series if you cook it.
Has anyone experienced anything similar?
Thanks in advance
Check the gauge operation by removing the wire from the sender and breaching it to earth. If you know the gauge is OK, then check the spade connector on the water rail , these are known to come loose and give an intermittent reading.
If that is sound, warm the coolant rail area with a heat gun (carefully) to see if the gauge moves; if it does then no coolant is getting to the sender so a bleed / top up at the heater hose would be a good thing. If it doesnt then suspect the sender.
Oily
If that is sound, warm the coolant rail area with a heat gun (carefully) to see if the gauge moves; if it does then no coolant is getting to the sender so a bleed / top up at the heater hose would be a good thing. If it doesnt then suspect the sender.
Oily
Bleed the cooling system with the nose of the car as high in the air as possible: the top hose/bleed screw on the radiator needs to be the highest point.
Run the car with the bleed screw open, header tank cap off and heater (if fitted) on full hot - hopefully that will get rid of any air locks.
Run the car with the bleed screw open, header tank cap off and heater (if fitted) on full hot - hopefully that will get rid of any air locks.
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